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The Red Drift ///Machine

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    I deleted the hood shocks and always had issues with opening the hood after a track session to let it cool off.

    well...no more! Cost about $30. It locks into the aerocatch latch and the pin. Wind proof!

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      Air dam is almost done. Needs a little more trimming.

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      I'm happy with the brake deflectors. So mold making has started! I think I have an idea for mounting. More to follow!

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      Taking Bryson's reinforcement plate and making a CF part!

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        It is a mad dash to NASA on Jan 30th and to finish a bunch of molds before Apr 30th when it starts to get hot in TX. Working with polyester resin in the heat sucks. Make molds Jan to Apr, Carbon parts May to Oct, more molds Nov to Dec.


        Air dam is trimmed and finished.

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        1.2 lbs...should save me 1-2lbs over my cheap amazon.com aero version.

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        Separate foglight block offs.

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        Front bumper molds...3rd try...done. 1st attempt - the flanges need more support so they sagged when I was laminated the FG. 2nd attempt - I used some borderline release agent. Apparently, it was on the wrong side of the borderline so the part stuck to the mold and destroyed it.

        The plan is to pull a part and mold the air dam and some tire spats into one piece. Finally, make a mold of the entire assembly.

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        Single air duct and brake deflector molds done. Still working on the wheel well plates. Had a gel coat issue so I'm starting over.

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        Last edited by bigjae46; 01-05-2026, 12:05 PM.

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          The car 100% needs a suspension refresh. The car is no longer comfortable to drive and there is a noticeable difference between front and rear tire wear. You can feel the suspension bottom out over curbs and bumps. It now hurts my back, the ride used to be more comfortable than my Dinan stage 2 E90 M3. Now just waiting on Jalal (aka Shaikh) to do his FCM stage 3 magic.

          AJ Hartman rear wing is on order, might be here in 2 weeks. Also time for a front splitter upgrade. I have to get into compliance with the 6" limit for NASA TT4 and will also add some tunnels. My splitter is 6.25" along 14" on the edge of the splitter...a 1/4"!!! But I don't want to hear any shit so better to be safe than sorry.

          FYI...A 6" splitter is a bad in-between for NASA. Needs to be a little less than 6" for TT4 or 10"-11" for TT3.

          And finally, I will implement the cheat code - Hoosiers!

          And It's been a little bit since the last driving video. So if you can't sleep just watch this for a minute.








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            Working on CF strut tower plates. Making a compression Adding a tab to make a triangular brace. The layup will be long strand forged carbon with nut inserts molded in. I have no idea if the insert will hold up. Worst case, I drill them out and bond a stud plate underneath.

            Half way done! The 2nd half of the mold will be a PIA. All of the little details will provide opportunities for a bad release.

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              Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
              Half way done! The 2nd half of the mold will be a PIA. All of the little details will provide opportunities for a bad release.
              Maybe consider making the underside flat? The details are just there to save weight for the cast part.

              (which means you'll end up with a heavier carbon part if you fill that in, of course)
              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - SSV1 - HJS - Mullet Tune - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                Maybe consider making the underside flat? The details are just there to save weight for the cast part.

                (which means you'll end up with a heavier carbon part if you fill that in, of course)
                I did but I don't think it will be a huge issue. I use release wax and then a chemical release. So I just need to spend more time getting the wax into the corners. Then the chem release is a solvent so it should provide a good backup to the corners and edges.

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                  Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

                  I did but I don't think it will be a huge issue. I use release wax and then a chemical release. So I just need to spend more time getting the wax into the corners. Then the chem release is a solvent so it should provide a good backup to the corners and edges.
                  You could also do a hybrid. Fill the tight corners with putty to open up the radii and make release easier with little weight penalty.
                  ‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversion

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                    Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

                    You could also do a hybrid. Fill the tight corners with putty to open up the radii and make release easier with little weight penalty.
                    I would more likely do that for the first half but I'm willing to risk it for the 2nd half. The 2nd half uses about 1/3 the casting resin and is relatively quick to setup. Most of the work is in the first half of a compression mold.

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                      2nd half of the mold is done. Once again, I forgot to install drive pins in the negative side to get the part out. So I had to drive the part out by threading a bolt in. I chipped the mold around the bolt hole which will require a repair. It will be a pain but maybe I'll learn my lesson this time.

                      Also didn't catch a negative draft around the inner opening. So I need to make 2 small repairs on each side.

                      Overall they came out really good!

                      Onto making the repairs, calculating the volume, and then making a part sometime in the future. Just not sure when, gotta get ready for NASA in 3 weeks among other things.

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