Converting an MSS54/HP into an MSS54HP CSL (H-bridge)

[davke Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close davke]

Hi. I am going to convert mss54 to mss54hp. No h-bridge, just for map sensor really. Is BDM flashing necessary? Or can i flash via obd with msstuner?

[S54B32 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close S54B32]

You need bdm or EEPROM flasher. There is no other way, because with empty flash chips the dme can not boot so no obd is possible.

[SliM3 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close SliM3]

Hi. I am going to convert mss54 to mss54hp. No h-bridge, just for map sensor really. Is BDM flashing necessary? Or can i flash via obd with msstuner?

You can do it with a BDM only but chances are you’ll need to the throw those -400 chips on a chip reader to verify they’re good to go prior to soldering them onto the board.


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[davke Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close davke]

Thanks for info!

[Schiffi Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schiffi]

One short question, at the moment i try to modify a non HP to HP ecu. I thougt i ordered two AM29F400BB-50SE but today two AM29F400BT-50SE have been delivered. Does this make a difference?

[S54B32 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close S54B32]

Yes, the have Bootloader section in the wrong place. you need AM29F400BB

[t3ddftw Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t3ddftw]

One short question, at the moment i try to modify a non HP to HP ecu. I thougt i ordered two AM29F400BB-50SE but today two AM29F400BT-50SE have been delivered. Does this make a difference?

Per the D/S:

B = Boot sector in the bottom
T = Boot sector in the top

I am working on restoring an old DME that I have on hand for my future S54 swap -- this DME has a bad flash IC (I think it's the slave, but I can't recall).

Anyways, I wanted to let you guys know that Arrow Electronics has plenty in stock: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/am...-semiconductor

Always better to buy these things from a distributor.

The only downside of course is that it's not an extended temperature part, but up to 85C should be fine, IMO.

-Ted

[nextelbuddy Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close nextelbuddy]

How do you split the file in half to flash evenly to master and slave. Is there another software we need that splits a file evenly?


Also I'm wondering if we use the 400BB chips harvested from MS43 DMEs, solder them in place. Maybe it's possible to flash via obd out of the gate since they already have software written to them?


I have a spare mss54 DME I want to convert to HP so I can make a copy of my current HP DME for my turbo car and have a spare back up DME to have on hand. I don't plan on running CSL software on it at all.


If that's the case Im guessing that I need to determine the program and software version of my current HP DME and find the associated OPA file for the program and then convert my BIn file for my tune portion to an ODA as well? Or what would be the best way to go about that?

[sapote Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close sapote]

I used a similar technique. I found it helpful to use copper solder wick to remove as much solder from the pads before applying pressure to "lift" the legs. Then, as you did, use tweezers to apply gentle upward pressure while applying heat to the pad. After wicking, there is so little solder left over that some of the legs lifted even without heat (although I would not recommend doing this as you could easily rip out a pad).

To remove an IC that you don't need it any more, here how do: Just heat the pad with solder iron to liquify the solder, then use the tip of the Exactor knife (on the other hand) to lift the pin away (iron in RH and Exactor in LH, I started from the right most pin, then just continue to the left pin lifting it 45 deg diagonal up). In fact, adding more solder to the pins makes it easy to liquify the solder as more solder help conduct more heat from the iron tip. Once the IC is removed, use solder wick to clean up the excess solder from the pads.

If you have a bevel tip on your soldering iron, you can put some flux paste on the legs, melt a little solder on the tip, and without lifting the iron up, sweep down the row of legs in one motion. The flux paste helps prevent bridging the pins. This is, of course, after soldering the corners to hold the chip in place. This video shows the technique: https://youtu.be/5uiroWBkdFY?t=115

The best way to solder a surface mounted IC is to use a concave tip: The concave surface helps to hold extra solder in it, then you just "brush" the tip over the pins as you drag the tip along a row of pins. Just like painting and one stroke end to end finished the whole row of pins, as in this video (I had done on very high density pin microprocessors and not just this simple DIP package):
https://www.instructables.com/How-to...-the-easy-way/
Edited: I didn't know the bevel tip in the original post is the same as my "concave tip", and the original video is even better than the one I posted. Sorry.

[heinzboehmer Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close heinzboehmer]

How do you split the file in half to flash evenly to master and slave. Is there another software we need that splits a file evenly?

Any hex editor should make this easy. Open the file, delete half, save, repeat for the other half.

[t3ddftw Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t3ddftw]

I have a dumb question: I assume I can solder on the H-Bridge and Capacitors but not convert to the CSL software, right? I plan on using it on a car with a stock airbox for now, but later on I will get a carbon airbox, flap and the rest of the bits and bobs.