Jump to post #9 for info on first converting an MSS54 into an MSS54HP (non CSL).
This was originally posted by Terra on M3Forum. I just went through this process, so I thought I would bring over all the posts from that thread that were relevant to the process. I've also added some information afterwards about converting and MSS54 to HP/CSL spec.
I've gotten a few PMs about this, and decide I'll post a quick summary of what's needed to convert a normal MSS54HP into the CSL variant. I'm assuming you all know how to solder and have decent equipment. In other words, this isn't a beginner's DIY; if you do not have experience with surface mount soldering, I suggest you hire someone to do the modifications for you.
The main item to add is an H-bridge. Here's a picture of my DME with the piece highlighted
For comparison, this is what a non-modified MSS54HP looks like. The IC in question is a Motorola/Freescale MC33186DH. Freescale no longer produces the MC33186DH, but they do produce the electrically identical MC33186VW. This has been confirmed to work to power the CSL flap. NOTE: This component is also obsolete, see post #8 for details.
Soldering this is a bit of a pain because the IC is heatsunk to the whole PCB; it's difficult to avoid overheating the board. Best would be to use a reflow oven to install the IC. When you're done, it should look something like this
On the other side, you have a couple capacitors to install. Note the highlighted box in the picture below
The larger capacitor is a 15 microfarad 35v capacitor in what I believe to be a "Type D" case. The 2 smaller once are 0805 100nf capacitors.
If you manage to install everything correctly without damaging the board, all you've got to do is flash the CSL software (with either an EEPROM burner or BDM) and you should have an operational CSL flap.
Here are the components:
Freescale MC33186VW1
AVX TPSD156K035R0100
AVX 581-08055C104J4T2A X 2
Do not get the H-bridge from eBay. I tried one, and it did not work properly. Always get them from a reputable vendor like Mouser or Digikey.
There many other capacitor choices that are compatible than the ones I picked up there. Both of those are automotive grade so they should be fine.
This was originally posted by Terra on M3Forum. I just went through this process, so I thought I would bring over all the posts from that thread that were relevant to the process. I've also added some information afterwards about converting and MSS54 to HP/CSL spec.
I've gotten a few PMs about this, and decide I'll post a quick summary of what's needed to convert a normal MSS54HP into the CSL variant. I'm assuming you all know how to solder and have decent equipment. In other words, this isn't a beginner's DIY; if you do not have experience with surface mount soldering, I suggest you hire someone to do the modifications for you.
The main item to add is an H-bridge. Here's a picture of my DME with the piece highlighted
For comparison, this is what a non-modified MSS54HP looks like. The IC in question is a Motorola/Freescale MC33186DH. Freescale no longer produces the MC33186DH, but they do produce the electrically identical MC33186VW. This has been confirmed to work to power the CSL flap. NOTE: This component is also obsolete, see post #8 for details.
Soldering this is a bit of a pain because the IC is heatsunk to the whole PCB; it's difficult to avoid overheating the board. Best would be to use a reflow oven to install the IC. When you're done, it should look something like this
On the other side, you have a couple capacitors to install. Note the highlighted box in the picture below
The larger capacitor is a 15 microfarad 35v capacitor in what I believe to be a "Type D" case. The 2 smaller once are 0805 100nf capacitors.
If you manage to install everything correctly without damaging the board, all you've got to do is flash the CSL software (with either an EEPROM burner or BDM) and you should have an operational CSL flap.
Here are the components:
Freescale MC33186VW1
AVX TPSD156K035R0100
AVX 581-08055C104J4T2A X 2
Do not get the H-bridge from eBay. I tried one, and it did not work properly. Always get them from a reputable vendor like Mouser or Digikey.
There many other capacitor choices that are compatible than the ones I picked up there. Both of those are automotive grade so they should be fine.
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