What Else Should I Change When I do My Clutch?

[kaiv]

The LUK TOB works great. It has more "articulation" than the SACHS (OE) but it doesn't appear to make any difference functionally. 200+ installed with not a single issue.

Did not read the full thread but to recap:

Sachs and Luk kits share the same clutch disk and pressure plate.
11211720310 - Pilot bearing (I only use OE, the Korean bearings like in the LUK kit aren't as good a fit in the crank)
21511223302 - Clutch fork
23117512866 - Guide tube
21511223281 - Pivot Pin (stainless steel, do not use aftermarket brass or bronze)
21517570284 - Spring clip

[akamin68]

Fresh DIY from FCP Euro on clutch replacement.

https://youtu.be/NmEOFBqreX8

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

[tlow98]

here are some pics of the stock, OE throw out bearing. Made by Sachs as mentioned in here.

[SQ13]

And a Sachs TOB from FCP:

[bimmer]

Yeah good point, Terra, I've seen some kits come with the ring kind.

The kind that will NOT work on our car due to SAC mechanism:


The kind you want to make sure was either included in your kit, or that you have, before mounting the clutch/pp is this kind:

Anyone have the correct clutch alignment tool they are willing to loan out? FCP is telling me the Sachs kit I ordered doesn't come with it and it's on backorder from Germany currently. Happy to cover shipping to/from

[BMWE46M3]

I can loan you mine, but I would like it back when you're done. However, before I ship it out, it appears you're located in Denver, so you may want to check with https://www.denverbeerandoil.com/ and see if they have one you can borrow. If not let me know, and I can ship it out.

[bimmer]

I can loan you mine, but I would like it back when you're done. However, before I ship it out, it appears you're located in Denver, so you may want to check with https://www.denverbeerandoil.com/ and see if they have one you can borrow. If not let me know, and I can ship it out.

Thanks man. Never heard of DBO before but I'm relatively new to Denver still. I'll hit them up first otherwise will shoot you a PM if they don't have one. Much appreciated!

[fattycharged]

Anyone use the Sachs Performance clutch SAC-881864999978 instead of the OE LUK?

[0-60motorsports]

Anyone use the Sachs Performance clutch SAC-881864999978 instead of the OE LUK?

Both are fine to use.

[bigjae46]

Anyone use the Sachs Performance clutch SAC-881864999978 instead of the OE LUK?

The Sachs kit has LUK stamped on the clutch disc. I think they are the same.

[fattycharged]

The Sachs kit has LUK stamped on the clutch disc. I think they are the same.

the one I’m referring to.

[Cubieman]

This may be a dumb question thread question, I've never installed a pressure plate that has a "plate" in the center as to not allow the clutch alignment tool to go in.

What is the purpose of this plate, keeping things aligned?
I assume it must come out at some point as you couldn't get the alignment tool in place in the clutch and put the pressure plate over it let alone the tranny input shaft.

[bigjae46]

This may be a dumb question thread question, I've never installed a pressure plate that has a "plate" in the center as to not allow the clutch alignment tool to go in.

What is the purpose of this plate, keeping things aligned?
I assume it must come at some point as you couldn't get the alignment tool in place in the clutch and put the pressure plate over it let alone the tranny input shaft.

That is for the SAC or self adjusting clutch mechanism. You bolt up the pressure plate and then twist that piece out which engages the SAC.

Don't take it out before tightening the pressure plate or it makes the job more of a pain. You can reset the SAC, you just need a 3 jaw puller and a mandrel to press on the pressure plate fingers. Here's a tip if you need to reset the SAC. Install the pressure plate and clutch with the 3 jaw puller on it. Snug the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel enough so the SAC will reset but you can still move the clutch disc a little bit by tapping with a hammer/chisel or screwdriver. Just a touch past hand tight. Remove the 3 jaw puller, use the clutch tool to center the disc and then torque the pressure plate bolts.

The risk here is you won't know it worked until you install the transmission.

[sapote]

Interesting how there seems to be so much variation. Maybe it's an effect of failures being more compelling to report? Regardless, I'll update this thread with the condition of my pivot pin when I do all of this.

Did you finish this project and what's the condition of the stock plastic pivot pin?
How hard to get the unbolted starter off the dowel pin? When I removed my transmission, it was a tough job to remove the exhaust pipes 4 nuts off the cat studs, and of course the bell housing top two E14 bolts. But nothing compared to removing the starter off the little dowel pin -- I couldn't believe this. People say to hammer the pin forward off the bellhousing using a 4mm Allen socket on the long 24" extension, and I tried this too but it didn't move and I fear this could break the bellhousing ear then a bigger headache. Non-M starter has a 5mm gap between the starter solenoid base and the bellhousing to wedge in a prybar or large screwdriver to work it loose, but M3 starter has no such gap.
There is no reason that BMW couldn't have the starter dowel hole 0.003" larger than the pin. My 1974 E9 doesn't have the dowel pin.

[heinzboehmer]

Did you finish this project and what's the condition of the stock plastic pivot pin?
How hard to get the unbolted starter off the dowel pin? When I removed my transmission, it was a tough job to remove the exhaust pipes 4 nuts off the cat studs, and of course the bell housing top two E14 bolts. But nothing compared to removing the starter off the little dowel pin -- I couldn't believe this. People say to hammer the pin forward off the bellhousing using a 4mm Allen socket on the long 24" extension, and I tried this too but it didn't move and I fear this could break the bellhousing ear then a bigger headache. Non-M starter has a 5mm gap between the starter solenoid base and the bellhousing to wedge in a prybar or large screwdriver to work it loose, but M3 starter has no such gap.
There is no reason that BMW couldn't have the starter dowel hole 0.003" larger than the pin. My 1974 E9 doesn't have the dowel pin.

Yeah I swapped the clutch a few years ago. Haven't had the transmission off since, so no idea how the replacement parts are wearing. This is what the original pivot pin looked like (ignore the marks on the side, those are from the vise grips I used to get it out):



I swapped the starter on my car about a year before doing the clutch and didn't have an issue getting it off either time. It pulled right out once the bolts were removed.