Cold start rattle 2-3 seconds then gone.

[maupineda]

I would be worry too, torque procedure is finicky if they used OE bolts. Do you know for sure they followed proper procedure? This is why I like working on my car myself.

I do hear the knock, not normal for sure.

[Andratch]

I would be worry too, torque procedure is finicky if they used OE bolts. Do you know for sure they followed proper procedure? This is why I like working on my car myself.

I do hear the knock, not normal for sure.

Interesting timing on your comment...I just spoke with the original shop that did the bearings. We used OEM bolts on this, and they think they may have toruqed them using the ARP specs. I don't know the difference in that, but could be on to something there...

They are going to do a work-warranty re-check of the car in a few weeks, I'm keeping it in the garage until then.

[maupineda]

Make sure they know what they are doing or it would be more expensive than finding another source. That input from them already raises big red flags.

[Andratch]

!! INTERESTING UPDATE !!

The shop went to order replacement bearings to do warranty re-work, and bimmerworld told them that the brand I have (I can't recall which, i'll figure it out) has a sales hold because they're investigating a manufacturing defect. Apparently this particular batch is returning a high rate of spun bearings! Might be on to something here....

I don't think my situation is that bad yet, but I'm going to stop driving it until I drop it off on the 24th.

[Slideways]

!! INTERESTING UPDATE !!

The shop went to order replacement bearings to do warranty re-work, and bimmerworld told them that the brand I have (I can't recall which, i'll figure it out) has a sales hold because they're investigating a manufacturing defect. Apparently this particular batch is returning a high rate of spun bearings! Might be on to something here....

I don't think my situation is that bad yet, but I'm going to stop driving it until I drop it off on the 24th.

Should be BE bearings as someone else said that they recently had a bad batch.

Not too sure that is your issue since the video I posted of the DINAN car with 40k miles makes a similar noise and I have heard one other car with a CSL tune make that noise as well, until the tune was updated.

[Andratch]

Should be BE bearings as someone else said that they recently had a bad batch.

Not too sure that is your issue since the video I posted of the DINAN car with 40k miles makes a similar noise and I have heard one other car with a CSL tune make that noise as well, until the tune was updated.

Did you listen to the video I posted on the last page? The knock can now be heard throughout the rev range, it’s just much louder until oil pressure builds.

I spoke to Kassel about this at length…I’ve had my turned kit on with their CSL reflash for a year prior to the sound starting, so I have a hard time aligning the two as a cause.

[mtpktz]

!! INTERESTING UPDATE !!

The shop went to order replacement bearings to do warranty re-work, and bimmerworld told them that the brand I have (I can't recall which, i'll figure it out) has a sales hold because they're investigating a manufacturing defect. Apparently this particular batch is returning a high rate of spun bearings! Might be on to something here....

I don't think my situation is that bad yet, but I'm going to stop driving it until I drop it off on the 24th.

Should be BE bearings as someone else said that they recently had a bad batch.

Not too sure that is your issue since the video I posted of the DINAN car with 40k miles makes a similar noise and I have heard one other car with a CSL tune make that noise as well, until the tune was updated.

Interested to hear more about a BE stop sale on S54 bearings - their site shows them available.

[Slideways]

Did you listen to the video I posted on the last page? The knock can now be heard throughout the rev range, it’s just much louder until oil pressure builds.

I spoke to Kassel about this at length…I’ve had my turned kit on with their CSL reflash for a year prior to the sound starting, so I have a hard time aligning the two as a cause.

Listened to it just now and there does seem to be a soft knock, RPM dependent sound. Easy check for a bearing issue is to pull the oil filter and inspect the pleats.

[Andratch]

Listened to it just now and there does seem to be a soft knock, RPM dependent sound. Easy check for a bearing issue is to pull the oil filter and inspect the pleats.

I took an oil sample for blackstone before changing the oil last week (as suggested by another member) - I didn't see much in the old filter, but then again it had only been in there for about 100 miles. I'll see what blackstone has to say. Fortunately, the shop that did the bearings agreed to warranty the work and replace them with WPC treated bearings.

Interested to hear more about a BE stop sale on S54 bearings - their site shows them available.

Mine are the Clevite bearings - not sure if that's different. But the stop-sale notice came from Bimmerworld. It's not mentioned on their website, but they called the shop after the order was placed to let them know and change the order.

[Andratch]

Update - Car is going in tomorrow to have the rod bearings re-replaced. They are going to warranty the work, so this should be a "free fix" which is nice.

The BE bearings will be replaced by WPC bearings, provided by Bimmerworld. They are going to use ARP bolts as well...we used OEM bolts last time. IIRC there was some speculation going around M3Cutters that on the later S54s, the ARP bolts don't take up the complete bore, but everyone else seems to be successful with ARP so I'm taking the path of least resistance. I suspect that the shop was not accustomed to using OEM bolts, and followed the ARP torque spec with OEM bolts, and the two are different.

Either way, new bearings and the proper torque spec should take care of this. I suspect the car won't be done until Monday, as they're trying to take time to make sure this is the root cause of the noise and really seal it up "for good."

While the pan is off, they're going to inspect for any broken pieces of chain guide and anything else they can see chain related just to triple check that this isn't related to anything else on the front end.

[bmwfnatic]

The BE bearings will be replaced by WPC bearings, provided by Bimmerworld. They are going to use ARP bolts as well...we used OEM bolts last time. IIRC there was some speculation going around M3Cutters that on the later S54s, the ARP bolts don't take up the complete bore, but everyone else seems to be successful with ARP so I'm taking the path of least resistance. I suspect that the shop was not accustomed to using OEM bolts, and followed the ARP torque spec with OEM bolts, and the two are different.

You can use ARP bolts for the M11 early engines up to 12/2002 based on your pictures you have an 05 or 06, which has the M10 bolts. ARP doesn’t sell bolts for those, period.

They do for the Euro S50, which some vendors like Bimmerworld stupidly market as being made for the S54, but there is no such mention on the ARP website.

It has been documented on this forum and elsewhere that using the S50 ARP bolts in S54 rods makes them out of round, which will certainly accelerate your rod bearing wear. Use Genuine…

[Andratch]

You can use ARP bolts for the M11 early engines up to 12/2002 based on your pictures you have an 05 or 06, which has the M10 bolts. ARP doesn’t sell bolts for those, period.

They do for the Euro S50, which some vendors like Bimmerworld stupidly market as being made for the S54, but there is no such mention on the ARP website.

It has been documented on this forum and elsewhere that using the S50 ARP bolts in S54 rods makes them out of round, which will certainly accelerate your rod bearing wear. Use Genuine…

So, is the consensus that for '05-'06 models, the ONLY bolts that will work without risk are the OEM?

[maupineda]

If you use ARP, you need to make sure they torque to yield spec, not just torque, as indicated, the M10 bolts are for the S50 engine, and one could argue they are similar enough on the bottom end design that the S50 bolts can be used on the S54, but you need to torque the bolt to it's stretch spec, not just the generic torque. All this tells me the shop does not know what they are doing, walk away!

[Andratch]

If you use ARP, you need to make sure they torque to yield spec, not just torque, as indicated, the M10 bolts are for the S50 engine, and one could argue they are similar enough on the bottom end design that the S50 bolts can be used on the S54, but you need to torque the bolt to it's stretch spec, not just the generic torque. All this tells me the shop does not know what they are doing, walk away!

I remember remember them mentioning yield spec unprompted last week, but i'll be sure that's what they do. I am not certain that the fault is on the shop, especially given that the particular batch of BE bearings is now known to be faulty. I'm getting an 'upgrade' of sorts out of it, so for now I'm okay. We'll see what things look like when the pan comes off.

[heinzboehmer]

Unsolicited opinion incoming, but I would personally stick to the OE bolts. I wouldn't trust anyone who tells you that the S50 bolts work on the S54 unless they have documentation of installing them on a rod (that's out of the engine) and measuring the roundness of the bore.

The torque sequence for the OE bolts is tedious, but not exactly hard. Any decent mechanic should be able to follow the sequence without issue...