What oil?

[heinzboehmer]

Where's icecream? I remember he spun a bearing after switching from TWS. Might have been coincidence, but it seemed to be the only thing that changed

[IamFODI]

If LM could kill an engine that much quicker than TWS, there would be a LOT more dead engines around.

AFAIK, as a general rule, engine failure is almost always due to one or more of the following:

1. Issues with design and/or manufacturing
2. Less-than-optimal running condition (e.g. bad tune, bad fuel, component aging, etc.)
3. Usage outside the design envelope

Lubricant failure is usually the last thing to suspect, and is basically never identifiable as a cause unless the oil is way out of spec somehow. That's why you see so many people who have "never had a problem" with all kinds of oils. It's a pretty sure bet that oil choice makes some difference for LONG-term engine life, but for an oil to be a definitive cause of short-term engine failure, it'd have to be so spectacularly unsuitable that almost no one would be stupid or ignorant enough to use it. Using LM 10W-60 in an S54 definitely isn't in that category.

[Circa Surviven]

Define cheaper:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...he-head-or-not

OP: "Can't definitively say the oil was the problem here. I had 3 oil analysis done in the past all on the LM; each report came back with no abnormalities. Last oil analysis was done ~90,000km, so oil at the time the bearing spun was ~3,000km old. If it were run solely on Castrol TWS (or whatever the correct spec Castrol oil is for the S54), I'm sure the same problem would have arisen."

OP said it probably wasn't the oil, but I'm not educated in engine internals so maybe LM had a part in it? Either way, I've read pages and pages of peoples opinions on the forum, some experienced mechanics, some way less experienced DIYs like myself. The response that seems to be agreed upon the most is proper weight and intervals, not brand names.

[chicane]

Liqui Moly 10w-60 because it's cheaper.

Define cheaper:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...he-head-or-not

[Arith2]

ICP spectroscopy, the basic method used by Blackstone and most other labs that serve individuals, can only see particles up to a few microns in size. Any particles you can see without magnifying equipment are going to be way too big to show up on the report.

That makes sense.

[IamFODI]

Latest oil analysis came in today. 2k miles on this Redline 5w-50. I usually change every 3k but I went to a open drift day event. The last sample before the Redline was on Motul 10w-60. I was anxious to get this report back cause there was a bunch of fine metal particles left behind on the drain pan lol

Well the oil analysis doesn't show that and they didn't say anything about it.

ICP spectroscopy, the basic method used by Blackstone and most other labs that serve individuals, can only see particles up to a few microns in size. Any particles you can see without magnifying equipment are going to be way too big to show up on the report.

[Arith2]

Latest oil analysis came in today. 2k miles on this Redline 5w-50. I usually change every 3k but I went to a open drift day event. The last sample before the Redline was on Motul 10w-60. I was anxious to get this report back cause there was a bunch of fine metal particles left behind on the drain pan lol

Well the oil analysis doesn't show that and they didn't say anything about it.

[DESMDR3]

Latest oil analysis came in today. 2k miles on this Redline 5w-50. I usually change every 3k but I went to a open drift day event. The last sample before the Redline was on Motul 10w-60. I was anxious to get this report back cause there was a bunch of fine metal particles left behind on the drain pan lol

[Arith2]

That sucks, man. Sorry to hear/see that.

Trying to think what I'd do beyond what you've already done. If all of the relevant parts were drained, flushed, and cleaned, I probably wouldn't worry about a thing. Maybe a 500 mile initial OCI and then full send. Otherwise, I'd probably start with your idea of running it a bit and then draining immediately, and then do another complete oil change (ideally draining the oil cooler as well) after 100 mildly driven miles, changing the filter each time.

It happened back in June so I've mourned, went the 5 stages of grief and came to terms with it. Now I have a "fresh" engine. The bearings looked really good so no bottom end problems.

That not a bad idea. I'll be driving mildly for 1200 miles because BMW specifies that for new bearings. Draining the oil cooler is one bolt so that's easy. It's just an extra quart or so. While that is a long time to break something in, I'm trying to avoid a recreation of anything that cause my engine to blow. I think neglect played a part in it, before I bought the car, but I'd rather be cautious.

[IamFODI]

I brought my oil filter housing to a solvant tank and got the chunks out the best I could. There wasn't much as my engine ran for maybe 3 seconds after it blew. I'm not that worried as it didn't seem contaminated when I drained. I think there's just a little bit. I hope I'm right.

That sucks, man. Sorry to hear/see that.

Trying to think what I'd do beyond what you've already done. If all of the relevant parts were drained, flushed, and cleaned, I probably wouldn't worry about a thing. Maybe a 500 mile initial OCI and then full send. Otherwise, I'd probably start with your idea of running it a bit and then draining immediately, and then do another complete oil change (ideally draining the oil cooler as well) after 100 mildly driven miles, changing the filter each time.

[Arith2]

😳

I wouldn't run it a second longer than I had to to rinse it.

Any way you could flush the coolers without running the engine?

Why is there visible metal residue in your coolers? Did you have the engine open recently or something?

I brought my oil filter housing to a solvant tank and got the chunks out the best I could. There wasn't much as my engine ran for maybe 3 seconds after it blew. I'm not that worried as it didn't seem contaminated when I drained. I think there's just a little bit. I hope I'm right.

[IamFODI]

So there's definitely some fine metal residue in my oil cooler and probably in the oil filter housing. How long should I run my garbage oil for a good ole flush? I'm pretty sure it's too fine for an oil filter hence why I saw some in the oil cooler. I'm thinking maybe get oil to temp and change the oil. I luckily had one oil change left of Liquimoly so I didn't have to waste my TWS. Also will swap the filter.

😳

I wouldn't run it a second longer than I had to to rinse it.

Any way you could flush the cooler without running the engine?

Why is there visible metal residue in your cooler? Did you have the engine open recently or something?

[Arith2]

So there's definitely some fine metal residue in my oil cooler and probably in the oil filter housing. How long should I run my garbage oil for a good ole flush? I'm pretty sure it's too fine for an oil filter hence why I saw some in the oil cooler. I'm thinking maybe get oil to temp and change the oil. I luckily had one oil change left of Liquimoly so I didn't have to waste my TWS. Also will swap the filter.

[IamFODI]

Off topic sort of: How do you guys ship your oil back to FCP? How is it packed to avoid spillage. TIA

1. Put old oil into new(ly empty) oil bottles
2. Put old oil filter in new filter's box
3. Put oil bottles in a bag of some kind and close it (knot, zip-tie, tape, etc.)
4. Put bag in shipping box along with filter
5. Add filler (ideally paper) & RMA form
6. Tape box shut
7. Literally send it

Optional:

1. Before putting oil bottles into bag, wipe down (especially at threads and under cap)
2. Before putting filter in box, let sit and drip, and then wrap in a disposable shop towel

Helps to save the shipping materials FCP Euro used when shipping the oil change kit to you.

[Derek //M]

Off topic sort of: How do you guys ship your oil back to FCP? How is it packed to avoid spillage. TIA