Is my diff completely done?

[sapote]

Comparing these two pics, your ground off splines is about 1.5mm below the chamfered section, so nothing to worry about.

[sapote]

I believe you're lucky it's only the splines that popped out, not the side-gear that messed up. The flange spline end will have some marred up end but it's just a very short section, so there are plenty of splines left on the shaft to do the work. Just clean up with a file in order to be able to insert it back in easy.

The important question is why the flange popped out. I don't think there's any wrong with the C-clip causing this, but somehow the wheel had extended to far causing the half shaft to pull the flange out, such as removing the shock damper without supporting the wheel and it falling down too far, or broken control arm which is not your case.

OP, have you checked why the half shaft pulled the flange out? I don't think the flange popped out due to bad locking ring. Had you jacked up the rear wheels recently before the mishap? Using a too long extended shock damper can cause this too as it allowed the wheel to drop too far.

[Mattn1192]

OP, have you checked why the half shaft pulled the flange out? I don't think the flange popped out due to bad locking ring. Had you jacked up the rear wheels recently before the mishap? Using a too long extended shock damper can cause this too as it allowed the wheel to drop too far.

No idea man… if it wasn’t the lock ring, I haven’t found anything abnormal…yet.

[sapote]

No idea man… if it wasn’t the lock ring, I haven’t found anything abnormal…yet.

OK, before install the flange back in, I would dress the end of the ground off splines: file the 2 sides of each spline for smooth edges, as this helps you to easier insert it back into the side-gear. Once the lock ring snaps on the shaft groove, then try to pull the flange out to see how much effort to pull it out. If it's too easy to pull it out then you might need a new ring. When the wheels move up and down, the movement of the CV joints splines relative to the shaft takes care the extended length, and the flange should not be subjected to a large pulling force. So you need to check the free sliding movement of the shaft within the two CV joints to see if it is locked for free.

[Mattn1192]

OK, before install the flange back in, I would dress the end of the ground off splines: file the 2 sides of each spline for smooth edges, as this helps you to easier insert it back into the side-gear. Once the lock ring snaps on the shaft groove, then try to pull the flange out to see how much effort to pull it out. If it's too easy to pull it out then you might need a new ring. When the wheels move up and down, the movement of the CV joints splines relative to the shaft takes care the extended length, and the flange should not be subjected to a large pulling force. So you need to check the free sliding movement of the shaft within the two CV joints to see if it is locked for free.

I filed every single spline on this shaft today, hoping that does the trick. I know that when I pushed the shaft in, it was not easy. And to pull it out, I had to pry that mf out because it was tight. I’m a little optimistic on this, but time will tell. Hoping for the best.

[Casa de Mesa]

I filed every single spline on this shaft today, hoping that does the trick. I know that when I pushed the shaft in, it was not easy. And to pull it out, I had to pry that mf out because it was tight. I’m a little optimistic on this, but time will tell. Hoping for the best.

Send it. I hate giving advice over the internet in situations like this, but after reading thru the updates today, button that thing back up and send it!

That flange cleaned up nicely. Sapotes point about only a small amount of ground off material is valid.

[Mattn1192]

Send it. I hate giving advice over the internet in situations like this, but after reading thru the updates today, button that thing back up and send it!

That flange cleaned up nicely. Sapotes point about only a small amount of ground off material is valid.

Haha yessir. I appreciate both of your help on this, it was huge. Much appreciated. And should also help anyone that runs into this issue.

[sapote]

Driving home I noticed this out of nowhere. There’s almost no power (I have to really step on it to get the car going) and grinding noise out of nowhere... Did my Diff just take a shit?

Now we know who had ground off those nice splines. If it is an open-diff then car went nowhere, and the splines were getting shorter every rev. Just don't try to drive it if happen next time.

[Casa de Mesa]

Haha yessir. I appreciate both of your help on this, it was huge. Much appreciated. And should also help anyone that runs into this issue.

Happy to help. I've been right where you are many times over and others came thru to help. Paying it forward.

[sapote]

Marked blue, does a seal go there or a bearing?

One would expect the output flange has some sort of bearing to support it, consider not only the flange but the heavier haft shaft is hanging on it. But, none and this is the reason why the oil seal on the shorter flange leaks first.

[Mattn1192]

Sure is going to get interesting when I put this back together lol seal gets here tomorrow

[Casa de Mesa]

This pic looks like it is a V2 with the oblong hole on the LSD carrier.

Where are you seeing the oblong hole? I'm trying to see the difference and at a loss!

Only asking because it will be good info to have if I decide to go down a rebuild path in the future. And I still don't see the difference!

[sapote]

V2 with oblong hole:

[Casa de Mesa]

V2 with oblong hole:

Got it. I think I see it now. You mean this part?

[bigjae46]

DON'T REUSE THAT AXLE STUB!!! The short stub is the one that no one wants. Should be able to get one cheap. I might have an extra one. Everyone wants the long one to cut down when they swap an OSG or a ZF limited slip carrier.

You will need to replace the c-clip, at a minimum. The problem is if the end of the stub is damaged then the inside of the spider gear splines are also damaged. Which leaves a minimal section of good spline engagement. The splines will likely fail.

You will need to pull the carrier out, open it up and replace the spider gear. I can a diff fully apart. I am going to rebuild it in a couple of weeks. PM me if you're interested.

If anyone is replacing their axle boots, I have the correct size pinch clamps if you need them. I went through 2 kits and ain't no way the clamps were big enough.