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    #61
    Originally posted by oceansize View Post
    Truth, if I have learned one thing from this forum it is do not buy any radiator other than OE.
    Koyo radiator has been fantastic for me, well respected for JDM cars. Has more capacity and all aluminum which is a bonus. Fitment is perfect as well.

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      #62
      Originally posted by wahsm View Post

      Koyo radiator has been fantastic for me, well respected for JDM cars. Has more capacity and all aluminum which is a bonus. Fitment is perfect as well.
      I've got one waiting for me to install. I also have a Koyo in my STI and it's been great at the track, even during the summer.
      "your BMW has how many miles!?"

      2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
      2007 GX470

      build/journal
      ig: @zzyzx85

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        #63
        Originally posted by wahsm View Post

        Koyo radiator has been fantastic for me, well respected for JDM cars. Has more capacity and all aluminum which is a bonus. Fitment is perfect as well.

        Are you tracking your car in 100 degree temperatures?

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          #64
          So i had my first event with the E46 out at thunderhill west today. Was about 80* and the car did great! Oil never even made it to the 3 dot and coolant was also a non worry. Guess i was just overthinking it
          As everyone stated OEM works and mine hasnt even been refreshed yet.

          Usually run a 1:25 in my F80 (ap racing bbk, tc klines,CS tune,apex ec7, nitto nt01). Ended up doing a 1:31 on a pretty much stock E46 with continental extreme sports (came with car). Not to mention this is my first manual car so ive only had 2 months of experience.

          Last edited by Driver407; 05-01-2022, 08:17 PM.

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            #65
            Would it be a good idea to throw in a few gallons of 100+ octane (unleaded) in the interest of ping prevention? Any downsides, besides being a waste of money?
            "your BMW has how many miles!?"

            2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
            2007 GX470

            build/journal
            ig: @zzyzx85

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              #66
              Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post
              Would it be a good idea to throw in a few gallons of 100+ octane (unleaded) in the interest of ping prevention? Any downsides, besides being a waste of money?
              Would probably be much easier/more convenient to throw in 2-3 gallons of E85. It will give about the same amount of knock protection/octane boost.
              Instagram: @logicalconclusion

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                #67
                Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post
                Would it be a good idea to throw in a few gallons of 100+ octane (unleaded) in the interest of ping prevention? Any downsides, besides being a waste of money?
                So long as your car is correctly tuned for pump, that's just lighting money on fire.

                2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                2012 LMB/Black 128i
                2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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                  #68
                  Originally posted by Obioban View Post

                  So long as your car is correctly tuned for pump, that's just lighting money on fire.
                  the sound of that money burning is pretty great though 🤣
                  "your BMW has how many miles!?"

                  2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
                  2007 GX470

                  build/journal
                  ig: @zzyzx85

                  Comment


                    #69
                    Originally posted by Estoril View Post


                    Are you tracking your car in 100 degree temperatures?
                    I have yes, handled it well. The stock one was old so could be similar in performance, but additional capacity and all aluminum housing was a bonus for me.

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                      #70
                      Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post
                      Would it be a good idea to throw in a few gallons of 100+ octane (unleaded) in the interest of ping prevention? Any downsides, besides being a waste of money?
                      When I was dealing with overheating in Colorado, putting a 1/2 tank of 100 octane extended the time it took for the car to overheat. This made me consider the tune's timing might be too aggressive.

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                        #71
                        Right now I have my gauges go into warning territory at 200F, engine outlet temp, and go red at 210F.

                        What on track coolant temps do you guys stop pushing at? Last event I saw 210F and did a cooldown lap.

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                          #72
                          Bumping an old thread because I am having overheating issues at track.

                          Setup:
                          -new OE WP
                          -new OE thermostat
                          -50/50 (I think?) BMW coolant
                          -new CSF radiator
                          -SPAL puller on N15 bracket
                          -no aux fan

                          Situation:
                          I'd get 1, maximum 2 laps out of the car at Laguna at full tilt, ambient temps in 80s, before water temps would spike 220-230+. Had to short shift 6-6.5k to manage the heat and keep it in the 200s-210s


                          Reading here, it seems that the consensus is this is probably due to the CSF radiator?
                          I was planning on replacing it with a DO88 radiator. Reading this thread is giving me second thoughts.
                          While I'm there, will also plan to put in water wetter and clean out the AC condenser.

                          Any other suggestions to look into?
                          Last edited by dreamdrivedrift; 11-11-2024, 10:09 PM.

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                            #73
                            I'd start with a new AC condenser and go back to a stock radiator. Without more airflow, a thicker radiator will likely not improve cooling at speed.

                            Look at the stock aero devices...there's a lot more than you'd think. I'd make sure you have the heat shielding over the headers installed. Also JUST learned that your windshield cowl plays a role in cooling. For example, deleting the cabin air filter housing will increase air pressure under the hood which stalls the flow through the radiator.

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                              #74
                              Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
                              I'd start with a new AC condenser and go back to a stock radiator. Without more airflow, a thicker radiator will likely not improve cooling at speed.

                              Look at the stock aero devices...there's a lot more than you'd think. I'd make sure you have the heat shielding over the headers installed. Also JUST learned that your windshield cowl plays a role in cooling. For example, deleting the cabin air filter housing will increase air pressure under the hood which stalls the flow through the radiator.
                              Yes the whole area is quite blocked off
                              I am glad at least I don't have aux fan, but even the N15 bracket the SPAL fan is mounted on blocks quite a bit of airflow on the rear side of the rad
                              Last, there is no exit for airflow on this car. I can imagine proper ducting behind the rad or at least more venting would help dramatically
                              Appreciate your input though. Can AC condenser be removed from behind or do I need to pull the front end off? I don't have an aux pusher fan.

                              Comment


                                #75
                                Originally posted by dreamdrivedrift View Post

                                Yes the whole area is quite blocked off
                                I am glad at least I don't have aux fan, but even the N15 bracket the SPAL fan is mounted on blocks quite a bit of airflow on the rear side of the rad
                                Last, there is no exit for airflow on this car. I can imagine proper ducting behind the rad or at least more venting would help dramatically
                                Appreciate your input though. Can AC condenser be removed from behind or do I need to pull the front end off? I don't have an aux pusher fan.
                                I think you need to pull the radiator out.

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