I found a number of things out doing this replacement using the new OE style parts from Matas Navik (found in post #157)
- Don't try to slide the whole piece in through the aluminum bracket area. It's too tight, even with lubricant, there's an easier way. Instead, take pliers and bend the corner up slightly on the rear end of the bracket. This will allow you to slide the new rubber in basically right where it needs to be. Definitely still use some sort of rubber safe lubricant. I've indicated below where to bend the aluminum, and where to align the rubber to that bent area prior to pushing it in to make it the easiest. You'll only need to slide it about an inch into its final place.
- I also found that my windows were very tight on this new rubber when closing. You'll want to slide the black finisher as far backwards as it will go while tightening the screws. Start with the screws in the most rearward section first. I was able to alleviate more compression on the rubber by removing the inner B-Pillar and loosening the two nuts that hold the rear window bracket on. The B-Pillar can be removed without removing the rear "door" cards. The "door" cards bend enough that you can access the plastic clips that hold the B-Pillar. There's play in the window mount, and I was able to slide the windows forward before re-tightening. The new rubber is still tight, but I'm hoping time closed will compress them into shape. I add a bit of grease too to help with friction as they closed.
- If you are replacing the lower seal piece, mark the original height of the old seal with painters tape prior to removal. There's nothing to register the location of the seal since its simply adhered to the paint (esp. with a good cleaning of the old adhesive)
- 3M 03618 Adhesive remover worked great on the adhesive left over on the paint from the lower seal piece.
- Protect your black finisher piece by laying a blanket on your work surface, or painters tape it. It's pretty easy to marr as you're fighting with the rubber.
- Quite a bit of stretch is needed to get the bolt hole lined up through the new rubber. Remove a bit of adhesive protective tape at a time, adhere the rubber to the finisher, and keep repeating.
- Be careful removing the front door seal near the front of the car, there's a wire that is attached to the body, on both sides. I assume this is the antenna for the key fob?
- The inner rear window seals are not L/R sided, they can be installed on either side. Just make sure the rubber faces outside, felt faces inside.
- I've always had issues when the front windows down, where water on the roof would drip into the car. While the black finishers were off, I ran a bead of RTV black gasket maker down the existing ribbed seal along the back side of the finishers. The existing seals looked mashed down, so that was probably the root cause. Would be interesting if we could find a source for these too...
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