Turner Motorsport CSL Airbox

[Anders93]

I installed a V2 airbox this weekend. I want to figure out if these issues are unique to me or if other people are having problems as well.

1 - The airbox does not clear the stock strut bar. I had to modify the u-bracket underneath by elongating the mounting hole as well as bending the arms in order to get the airbox low enough for around 6mm of clearance.

2 - The unfiltered detachable part came on and off easily before I lowered the airbox (during the original test fit), but afterwards the bell mouth contacts the engine bay before the pins can clear their holes. I have to pretty forcefully pull up on the filtered section of the airbox to get enough clearance to remove it. Even then, it's pretty difficult.

[ATB88]

I installed a V2 airbox this weekend. I want to figure out if these issues are unique to me or if other people are having problems as well.

1 - The airbox does not clear the stock strut bar. I had to modify the u-bracket underneath by elongating the mounting hole as well as bending the arms in order to get the airbox low enough for around 6mm of clearance.

2 - The unfiltered detachable part came on and off easily before I lowered the airbox (during the original test fit), but afterwards the bell mouth contacts the engine bay before the pins can clear their holes. I have to pretty forcefully pull up on the filtered section of the airbox to get enough clearance to remove it. Even then, it's pretty difficult.

1. ECS sent me a pre-modified u-bracket because I was running a V1 box before, so I just continued using that. Sounds like maybe it's still necessary.

2. Yeah same. Getting the unfiltered section on/off with the box installed is very difficult and I always feel like I'm going to break/damage something.

[Thonas]

1. ECS sent me a pre-modified u-bracket because I was running a V1 box before, so I just continued using that. Sounds like maybe it's still necessary.

2. Yeah same. Getting the unfiltered section on/off with the box installed is very difficult and I always feel like I'm going to break/damage something.

So this isn’t great to hear, I also had strut bar clearance issues and will have to modify the bracket. I also went with the CSL dipstick, so hearing that it’s hard to remove the non filtered part of the air box is not great.

So this isn’t an issue with other CSL style air boxes?

What part of the bell on the air box contacts and can it be modified or something moved to create some clearance so it is easier to remove?

[ATB88]

So this isn’t great to hear, I also had strut bar clearance issues and will have to modify the bracket. I also went with the CSL dipstick, so hearing that it’s hard to remove the non filtered part of the air box is not great.

So this isn’t an issue with other CSL style air boxes?

What part of the bell on the air box contacts and can it be modified or something moved to create some clearance so it is easier to remove?

Yeah, so, I agree that the unfiltered section needs to be easier to attach and remove for usability. It sounds like this isn't such an issue with other boxes (and my V1 was very easy to deal with in this respect).

I think the problem is the two metal locating pins at the bottom of the main box, along the bottom of where the filter sits. These two locating pins insert into two matching holes in the bottom of the unfiltered section. Once the pins go into those holes, it kind of acts like a hinge there and you just rotate the top part of the unfiltered section to close it up top and install the bolts at the top to secure the two halves together.

In the V1 boxes, it seemed like these locating pins were falling out after not too long. I'm guessing that they did something to compensate for this in the V2 boxes, probably some slight design change of the pins as well as how they're anchored to the box. Whatever they did, it seems like the pins are a little too long now, making it hard to get the needed clearance to properly "hook" the bottom of the unfiltered section onto the pins without seriously fighting it. My guess is that this could be corrected by sanding the pins down a bit. It might not even be a length problem -- the pins seem to be more cylindrical (flat at the top, with a sharp edge) than the pins on the V1 box felt (totally rounded at the top, like a farm silo, no hard/sharp edges). It could just be these hard cylindrical edges providing resistance?

The pins are very small and short so hand-sanding with sandpaper probably isn't a good way to go (would probably end up sanding the CF). Maybe a little dremel tool?

Given that it's not just my box I would love to hear Turner's thoughts on this. I'm too busy with work the next few weeks to talk to them, but would highly encourage anyone else experiencing this issue to reach out.

[Thonas]

Yeah, so, I agree that the unfiltered section needs to be easier to attach and remove for usability. It sounds like this isn't such an issue with other boxes (and my V1 was very easy to deal with in this respect).

I think the problem is the two metal locating pins at the bottom of the main box, along the bottom of where the filter sits. These two locating pins insert into two matching holes in the bottom of the unfiltered section. Once the pins go into those holes, it kind of acts like a hinge there and you just rotate the top part of the unfiltered section to close it up top and install the bolts at the top to secure the two halves together.

In the V1 boxes, it seemed like these locating pins were falling out after not too long. I'm guessing that they did something to compensate for this in the V2 boxes, probably some slight design change of the pins as well as how they're anchored to the box. Whatever they did, it seems like the pins are a little too long now, making it hard to get the needed clearance to properly "hook" the bottom of the unfiltered section onto the pins without seriously fighting it. My guess is that this could be corrected by sanding the pins down a bit. It might not even be a length problem -- the pins seem to be more cylindrical (flat at the top, with a sharp edge) than the pins on the V1 box felt (totally rounded at the top, like a farm silo, no hard/sharp edges). It could just be these hard cylindrical edges providing resistance?

The pins are very small and short so hand-sanding with sandpaper probably isn't a good way to go (would probably end up sanding the CF). Maybe a little dremel tool?

Given that it's not just my box I would love to hear Turner's thoughts on this. I'm too busy with work the next few weeks to talk to them, but would highly encourage anyone else experiencing this issue to reach out.

I just requested more information about the pins from Turner. I will post what I find out, thanks for the information!!

[Anders93]

I emailed Turner as well. I'll update when I get a response.

[dl.m3]

Just installed my revised V2 box, pleased with the revision and quality improvement. All the bungs look revised to be more sturdy, they might be embedded in the carbon or the resin maybe? Anyhow I added a bit more clear JB weld for more insurance. Did not have any issues installing the unfiltered part, in fact I found it easier to slide onto those locating pins than the V1.

No clearance issues at all, I have about 5-6mm of clearance at the stock strut bar, although I have modified the bottom U-bracket to be lower.

I would highly recommend this intake for those on the fence. Turner/ECS has been exceptional with my issues!

[Anders93]

Are people reusing their stock intake boots or using the silicone Turner boots? I reused my stock ones. I'm wondering if the Turner boots are shorter.

[jk715]

Are people reusing their stock intake boots or using the silicone Turner boots? I reused my stock ones. I'm wondering if the Turner boots are shorter.

I believe there are two factory intake boot sizes. Mine were too big for the turner intake so I had to purchase the silicon boots. ‘05 zcp for reference.


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[LSBNick]

Just installed my revised V2 box, pleased with the revision and quality improvement. All the bungs look revised to be more sturdy, they might be embedded in the carbon or the resin maybe? Anyhow I added a bit more clear JB weld for more insurance. Did not have any issues installing the unfiltered part, in fact I found it easier to slide onto those locating pins than the V1.

No clearance issues at all, I have about 5-6mm of clearance at the stock strut bar, although I have modified the bottom U-bracket to be lower.

I would highly recommend this intake for those on the fence. Turner/ECS has been exceptional with my issues!

this is great to hear. Can’t wait to get mine!

[Anders93]

I believe there are two factory intake boot sizes. Mine were too big for the turner intake so I had to purchase the silicon boots. ‘05 zcp for reference.


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Which dimension was too big? The hole diameter or the overall length (distance between throttle bodies and intake)? Mine were from an '03 and didn't seem to have any problem fitting on the airbox.

[jk715]

Which dimension was too big? The hole diameter or the overall length (distance between throttle bodies and intake)? Mine were from an '03 and didn't seem to have any problem fitting on the airbox.

The hole diameter.


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[Arith2]

So they decided to use the old boots instead of the updated ones? Everyone with 2003.5 and over will need boots?

[Anders93]

So they decided to use the old boots instead of the updated ones? Everyone with 2003.5 and over will need boots?

I'm guessing it's because the CSL used the old style boots? The airbox I received had the Turner silicon boots and hose clamps included, so maybe people with 2003.5+ cars won't need to purchase anything. I just wanted to reuse my OEM boots.

[Arith2]

I'm guessing it's because the CSL used the old style boots? The airbox I received had the Turner silicon boots and hose clamps included, so maybe people with 2003.5+ cars won't need to purchase anything. I just wanted to reuse my OEM boots.

I have a 2006 so that's why I'm curious. CSL started in 2002 so it would make sense on the old style boots.