Turner Motorsport CSL Airbox

[jk715]

Just installed the v2. Seems like the only difference is the dip in the rear for cabin filter housing clearance. Otherwise, quality looks good. Packaging was perfected. Hoping the connectors don’t break off this time.


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[pnvhome]

Just ordered gloss kit for SMG, with ETA on march 4, hope it would be faster)

[SQ13]

$2187 for the kit (after tax) + however much an AlphaN tune costs. I’ll hold off for now. RIP

[pnvhome]

2282 (kit+csl crankcase + dip stick) + tax + csl ecu + kassel map sensor, however it is cheaper than others

[ra2fanatic]

2282 (kit+csl crankcase + dip stick) + tax + csl ecu + kassel map sensor, however it is cheaper than others

factor in map sensor "kit" and or CSL fuel rail if you want it done right.

[pnvhome]

factor in map sensor "kit" and or CSL fuel rail if you want it done right.

i mean i boght mss54 converted to HP with csl firmaware for stock cams, and kassel kit to air rail, i thought it would be ok, as the same was done by buildjournal

[ra2fanatic]

i mean i boght mss54 converted to HP with csl firmaware for stock cams, and kassel kit to air rail, i thought it would be ok, as the same was done by buildjournal

Ah yes, the kassel kit works too. I was deep into it at that point when I did my conversion and went with the CSL rail instead since someone locally had it on hand.

[Cubieman]

The MAP sensor kit from COVID-19 here on the forums is a great option and significantly cheaper than Kassel/CSL rail. It puts the sensor away from the heat of the engine as well, it sits right by your brake booster.

[pnvhome]

However kassel kit is now on the way to me, hope it would be ok

[Cubieman]

However kassel kit is now on the way to me, hope it would be ok

Absolutely ok, nothing wrong with it.

[ra2fanatic]

The MAP sensor kit from COVID-19 here on the forums is a great option and significantly cheaper than Kassel/CSL rail. It puts the sensor away from the heat of the engine as well, it sits right by your brake booster.

I have that kit. I just took the sensor and put it on the OE CSL rail. I have the rest of that kit somewhere in storage.

[ATB88]

Finally got around to installing the V2 box I received to replace my defective V1 box. By the time I got the old V1 box out the the problems were:

-top connetcor for secondary air line detached (not during shipping but during driving a couple months)
-bottom connector for hose to idle control valve detached (not during shipping but during driving a couple months)
-back end rubbing on cabin air filter housing
-unfiltered section doesn't clear strut bar
-locating pins for securing the bottom of the unfiltered section to the filtered section BOTH fell out

New box fit in beautifully, clears the cabin air filter housing and strut bar, no issues except my own human error in collapsing the bottoms of two of the connector hoses when pushing the box onto the throttle bodies -- this lead to what I thought were MASSIVE fitment problems until I figured out what was happening Interestingly, in the > 15 times I've re-installed an airbox on this car, the conector hoses had never buckles on me like that before, but I can't see how this could have been the box's fault. Honestly the longest part of the installation process for me was getting all the residual goo from the TMS sticker off the box before putting the M Power sticker on. Goo gone really didn't seem to work too well, but 40 minutes and a lot of rubbing with a microfiber towel eventually got it all.

I used the modified mounting bracket they sent me a few a months back, but I'm assuming that isn't necessary anymore -- sounds like everyone else has had success with the normal mounting bracket.

Only ONE issue with my new box: the locating pins at the bottom (which attach the bottom of the unfiltered section to the box) seem slightly too long. I say this because getting the unfiltered section onto and off of the installed box is VERY difficult. Takes 10 minutes, swearing, and pushing an amount that makes me uncomfortable. Anyone else experience this?? I'm always worried that I'm going to damage the damn thing getting the unfiltered section on and off. I think that shaving the locating pins down ever so slightly should help? Anyone think a dremel is a bad idea there? Too delicate?

At the end of the day, I'm overall quite happy with the box. I went into it knowing that there could be issues with the first design iteration, Turner handled it well, and the current product looks great, sounds great, and performs great, and I got it for ~$1000 less than a Karb.

Now just gotta wait until my SS stuff gets here so I can install and finally get this tuned by Hassan

[siamkazi]

ATB88 - appreciate the update (and the trial and error), that's awesome news! tbh was waiting on a review of the V2 before throwing it in.

[ATB88]

ATB88 - appreciate the update (and the trial and error), that's awesome news! tbh was waiting on a review of the V2 before throwing it in.

For sure!

And I'll re-iterate that if cost's not an issue, a Karb box is definitely still a better bet, but, given how much CSL airbox conversion costs after all the bells and whistles (DME conversion, MAP conversion, etc etc), having an option that costs $1000 less than the standard route makes this awesome mod accessible to a much larger group of people. I don't think I would have considered a CSL airbox at this point if the TMS box wasn't as cheap as it is, and I'm really glad I did

[T-Rex]

Finally got around to installing the V2 box I received to replace my defective V1 box. By the time I got the old V1 box out the the problems were:

-top connetcor for secondary air line detached (not during shipping but during driving a couple months)
-bottom connector for hose to idle control valve detached (not during shipping but during driving a couple months)
-back end rubbing on cabin air filter housing
-unfiltered section doesn't clear strut bar
-locating pins for securing the bottom of the unfiltered section to the filtered section BOTH fell out

New box fit in beautifully, clears the cabin air filter housing and strut bar, no issues except my own human error in collapsing the bottoms of two of the connector hoses when pushing the box onto the throttle bodies -- this lead to what I thought were MASSIVE fitment problems until I figured out what was happening Interestingly, in the > 15 times I've re-installed an airbox on this car, the conector hoses had never buckles on me like that before, but I can't see how this could have been the box's fault. Honestly the longest part of the installation process for me was getting all the residual goo from the TMS sticker off the box before putting the M Power sticker on. Goo gone really didn't seem to work too well, but 40 minutes and a lot of rubbing with a microfiber towel eventually got it all.

I used the modified mounting bracket they sent me a few a months back, but I'm assuming that isn't necessary anymore -- sounds like everyone else has had success with the normal mounting bracket.

Only ONE issue with my new box: the locating pins at the bottom (which attach the bottom of the unfiltered section to the box) seem slightly too long. I say this because getting the unfiltered section onto and off of the installed box is VERY difficult. Takes 10 minutes, swearing, and pushing an amount that makes me uncomfortable. Anyone else experience this?? I'm always worried that I'm going to damage the damn thing getting the unfiltered section on and off. I think that shaving the locating pins down ever so slightly should help? Anyone think a dremel is a bad idea there? Too delicate?

At the end of the day, I'm overall quite happy with the box. I went into it knowing that there could be issues with the first design iteration, Turner handled it well, and the current product looks great, sounds great, and performs great, and I got it for ~$1000 less than a Karb.

Now just gotta wait until my SS stuff gets here so I can install and finally get this tuned by Hassan

Bolded the issues I had with my V1 as well. Installed the V2 box last weekend, and sincerely hope this one holds up better. FWIW, these all happened within 4 months and ~800 miles of driving.