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Installing Ohlins RT. Rear shock mounting minor issues.

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    #16
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

    Click image for larger version

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    that's a super clean cut in the carpet! how'd you do that?
    /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

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      #17
      Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post

      that's a super clean cut in the carpet! how'd you do that?
      dremel with a cutoff wheel and some patience! https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...457#post254457
      🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
      Build thread: link

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        #18
        bumping this thread because I like the idea of using yellow zinc plated hardware with ohlins gold suspension so much I'm going to do the same thing where I can. Some of the hardware is out of stock on the belmetric site unfortunately. On mcmaster carr it looks like you have to buy packages of 10 in some cases, and has a 7-8 week lead time. 😐

        also, does anyone have a picture of the hardware stack for the front and rear top mounting? there's a lot of components to this and I want to make sure I put mine together correctly the first time.
        Last edited by tnord; 02-22-2026, 04:15 PM.

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          #19
          I’ve had good luck with boltdepot.com when sourcing hardware

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            #20
            Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
            Noticed a couple fitment issues installing Ohlins shocks.

            1. The lower mounting bolt doesn't have enough length to completely go through the knuckle. Anyone else notice this with Ohlins? Looks like new longer bolts are required.

            Other option is to not use a bolt washer, but then the bolt would dig into the shock's spacer/sleeve. The bolt is about 2mm short of the making it out of the threaded hole on the other end.

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            2. Not ohlins related issue, but rear shock mounts with an x-brace. The studs on the RSM(I used Rogue Eng) don't extend far enough for the nuts.

            Because the X-brace acts as a reinforcement plate I can ditch the the Rogue stud plate, and use bolts and nuts. This would require a helper to hold one end, otherwise does anyone see any issue with this?


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            It's been a while since i fitted my Rogue rear mounts, but have you fitted yours upside down?

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              #21
              I agree, those are not installed correctly. You will lose a ton of shock travel with that orientation.

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                #22
                Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post
                I agree, those are not installed correctly. You will lose a ton of shock travel with that orientation.
                Originally posted by Portlandgrey View Post

                It's been a while since i fitted my Rogue rear mounts, but have you fitted yours upside down?
                ​Thanks for calling this out. I have some time tonight to tinker and will pull the shocks to check it out.

                FYI here is the AI response:

                "The mounts are designed to be installed upside down (or inverted compared to traditional/stock setups). This allows the nuts securing the mount to be accessed from underneath the car (in the wheel well), making future shock removal or service much easier without needing to disassemble interior trunk trim panels repeatedly.

                This is a deliberate design feature highlighted in user experiences and discussions (e.g., on ZPost forums for similar applications like Z4M, which shares E46-platform rear suspension elements). The reinforcement plates/assemblies have welded hardware that enables this bottom-mount approach—threads/studs typically point downward into the wheel well for nut access from below, while the main mount plate sits accordingly in the shock tower area.
                Key points from product details and installation references:
                • The reinforcement assembly reinforces the top of the shock tower and uses welded hardware to facilitate bottom access.
                • In the official installation tutorial video, assembly involves loading washers, bushings (with slight bulging when torqued correctly), and securing on the shock shaft, then fitting into the vehicle with gaskets—orientation aligns with easy under-car access.
                • Rogue's product page emphasizes the bottom-mount design for serviceability: remove two nuts and one bottom bolt to drop shocks without trunk work.

                If you're following the included instructions or the Rogue Engineering RSM tutorial video (search for "Rogue Engineering RSM Installation Tutorial" on YouTube), it demonstrates this setup visually. Incorrect orientation (e.g., standard top-down like OEM) would defeat the serviceability advantage and might complicate access.

                If you have the parts in hand and something looks off, double-check against the video or contact Rogue directly for confirmation on your specific kit. No sources indicate any ambiguity or "no correct orientation"—the upside-down install is the intended/correct way for these mounts."
                Perhaps I have it double flipped 😂
                Last edited by bavarian3; 02-24-2026, 03:07 PM.
                🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
                Build thread: link

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                  #23
                  You have the studs in the correct orientation. The mount itself is upside down. It should protrude more into the trunk.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post
                    You have the studs in the correct orientation. The mount itself is upside down. It should protrude more into the trunk.
                    I see it now. Can't find install instructions but I see this video albeit a little old: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAyx9m60Dx0

                    The way I see it this will affect ride height, thus affecting toe. Shucks.
                    🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
                    Build thread: link

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                      #25
                      Yeah I think they are right. I made the same mistake on our e30 racecar, it seems logical because the pretty logo is visible from the wheel well. So I emailed RE when doing my e36 and they confirmed they should be the other way. And yeah, the reinforcement plate stud should stick down into the wheel well so you can remove them without pulling your trunk carpet. But the mount itself is upside down.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Big Nodge View Post
                        Yeah I think they are right. I made the same mistake on our e30 racecar, it seems logical because the pretty logo is visible from the wheel well. So I emailed RE when doing my e36 and they confirmed they should be the other way. And yeah, the reinforcement plate stud should stick down into the wheel well so you can remove them without pulling your trunk carpet. But the mount itself is upside down.
                        Alright yep confirmed with Rogue they are upside down.

                        So realistically what am I looking at in lost travel here jayjaya29. Wondering about the alignment concerns before I start pulling things.
                        🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
                        Build thread: link

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                          #27
                          I don’t think it will have an effect on your alignment. I’d pull the shocks, fit the mounts the correct way round and then reinstall. You can then get the alignment checked for piece of mind.

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                            #28
                            Rear shocks will not affect alignment.

                            With a bushing in the lower eye you have to make sure to tighten the lower bolt at ride height with full weight on, but I think your ohlins have a spherical bearing so that shouldn't even matter.

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                              #29
                              No effect on your alignment. But as Bebop said, torque the lower shock bolt at ride height.

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                                #30
                                If static ride height changes when you flip the mount (unlikely to happen unless you were bottoming out on the bump stop or similar), static alignment will definitely change. The camber/toe curves will not (you'll just be in another part of them).

                                Measure ride height, flip mount, measure again, adjust if necessary and your static alignment will be back to where it was.
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