Porsche Brembo 996 BBK conversion

[duracellttu]

Hoping to get a little help tracking down and issues I’m having with 3 different bleeder valves leaking. The set of 996 Brembos I’m using were purchased on eBay and I did a complete rebuild on them. Stripped them down before powered coating them and replaced the piston seals, connector hard lines and bleeder valves with genuine Brembo/Porsche parts.

Yesterday I finally was able to bleed the system, install the pads and take it out for a test drive. I’m getting good pressure in the system and there was no issues while driving/bedding the rotors. When I got back to the garage I noticed that all outer bleeder valves but one were sweating from the threads. Very slight seeping that wasn’t enough to drip but was apparent there was an issue.

I have cranked down and tightened all of the bleeder valves but didn’t help. Has anybody else experienced this issue? Looking for some advice.

[WOLFN8TR]

My bleeder valves did the same thing after bleeding and bedding the brakes. Try cleaning around them with a Qtip and key an eye on them the next few days. I think the torque spec on the bleeders is approx 8 ft lbs.

[duracellttu]

My bleeder valves did the same thing after bleeding and beading the brakes. Try cleaning around them with a Qtip and key an eye on them the next few days. I think the torque spec on the bleeders is approx 8 ft lbs.

Did it just stop on it’s own? Did you end up replacing the bleeders? I’m at a loss here.

They are definitely torqued down. I have all them an extra nudge when I saw the leak. 8 ft/lbs is nothing so by hand I know it’s more than that.

[Tbonem3]

Doesn't make sense to me. I've been through many sets of these and never had this issue, esp not with genuine brembo parts.

Maybe tighten them a bit more.

[duracellttu]

Doesn't make sense to me. I've been through many sets of these and never had this issue, esp not with genuine brembo parts.

Maybe tighten them a bit more.

So it looks like I just needed to tighten the bleeder valve a little more. I was doing hand tight and it was very snug. Ended up tightening further and that seemed to do it. 10 ft-lbs wasn’t enough. I needed a little more.

Hope this helps others.

[Inizes]

So 15mm spacer needed for ZCP up front, any spacers required for the rear?

[Tbonem3]

Never

[designer485]

Hi guys, I just finished installing my setup (Front and Rear). Rally Road Brackets and Lines, Textar Pads. I have about 40 miles on everything so far and I am getting a very loud screech / squeal when lightly braking from about 25mph or so down. Sometimes not until 5 or 10 mph depending on pressure. Bedding everything in seemed to go well and everything feels great (pedal feel, bite, etc.).

Did anyone use Brake Lube on the pad backs, spring clips or pad guide pins? As anyone else getting noise like this?

It is slightly embarrassing coming to a stop with my brand new brake kit sounding like a school bus...it would be one thing if i was using race pads, but these are OE Textars and should be nice and quiet.

Thoughts?

[duracellttu]

Hi guys, I just finished installing my setup (Front and Rear). Rally Road Brackets and Lines, Textar Pads. I have about 40 miles on everything so far and I am getting a very loud screech / squeal when lightly braking from about 25mph or so down. Sometimes not until 5 or 10 mph depending on pressure. Bedding everything in seemed to go well and everything feels great (pedal feel, bite, etc.).

Did anyone use Brake Lube on the pad backs, spring clips or pad guide pins? As anyone else getting noise like this?

It is slightly embarrassing coming to a stop with my brand new brake kit sounding like a school bus...it would be one thing if i was using race pads, but these are OE Textars and should be nice and quiet.

Thoughts?

Did you take the metal circlip out of the one set of pads? I think it was only the rear. Sounds like you have metal on metal contact some place. Your best bet is to get the car back in stands. Remove the wheels and do a thorough visual inspection of the calipers, rotors, and pads. Possibly remove the calipers from the adapters as well. Check the clearance between the pad guid pins and the rotor rom the inside of the caliper while you are at it.

I didn’t uses any brake/assembly lube. However I did use the clips that keep the pad attached to the pistons.

[designer485]

Did you take the metal circling out of the one set of pads? I think it was only the rear. Sounds like you have metal on metal contact some place. Your best bet is to get the car back in stands. Remove the wheels and do a thorough visual inspection of the calipers, rotors, and pads. Possibly remove the calipers from the adapters as well. Check the clearance between the pad guid pins and the rotor rom the inside of the caliper while you are at it.

I didn’t uses any brake/assembly lube. However I did use the clips that keep the pad attached to the pistons.

The sound is coming from the front, although I did take the small pins out of the rear pads (there was no way to fit them without taking those pins out). The front caliper guide pins have good clearance on both sides of the rotors. I did not use pad vibration backing plates as it looks like a 50/50 spread here with those who did.

Should I be ordering some? It seems to back pad changes a lot more time consuming if used.

Everything is silent except for that 10-15mph at low pedal pressure. I have no problem having another once over and taking things back apart, but before I did, I figured I would check with the group to see if anyone ran into the same issue.

[WOLFN8TR]

It almost sounds like you didn't bed the brakes. Mine made more noise before bedding the brakes. It shouldn't be a very loud screech / squeal thou.

The pad vibration plates stop the metal clunk when applying the brakes caused by the caliper pistons hitting the back of the brake pads. When using them you have to remove the calipers to get the pads out. I did use them but removed the 3M adhesive that sticks the brake pads. I still have the clunk but 50% less using them if that makes sense.

[maupineda]

Hi guys, I just finished installing my setup (Front and Rear). Rally Road Brackets and Lines, Textar Pads. I have about 40 miles on everything so far and I am getting a very loud screech / squeal when lightly braking from about 25mph or so down. Sometimes not until 5 or 10 mph depending on pressure. Bedding everything in seemed to go well and everything feels great (pedal feel, bite, etc.).

Did anyone use Brake Lube on the pad backs, spring clips or pad guide pins? As anyone else getting noise like this?

It is slightly embarrassing coming to a stop with my brand new brake kit sounding like a school bus...it would be one thing if i was using race pads, but these are OE Textars and should be nice and quiet.

Thoughts?

i have this issue at the rear. I was using brembo ceramics before but installed Textar as they brake better being metalic, but they squeal just like you describe. I have been lazy to try the rubberized thicker plate the brembos have, that was the main difference between the two. I may do this this week.

[S14]

Hi guys, I just finished installing my setup (Front and Rear). Rally Road Brackets and Lines, Textar Pads. I have about 40 miles on everything so far and I am getting a very loud screech / squeal when lightly braking from about 25mph or so down. Sometimes not until 5 or 10 mph depending on pressure. Bedding everything in seemed to go well and everything feels great (pedal feel, bite, etc.).

Did anyone use Brake Lube on the pad backs, spring clips or pad guide pins? As anyone else getting noise like this?

It is slightly embarrassing coming to a stop with my brand new brake kit sounding like a school bus...it would be one thing if i was using race pads, but these are OE Textars and should be nice and quiet.

Thoughts?

sounds like you need to bed the pad compound into the rotor (are the rotors new?) to make the two materials familiar with each other. Get the car up to 60mph and firmly slow down to 10mph, then speed up to 60mph again, back down to 10mph. Do this 8-10 times over and over again and I bet the noise will go away.

[designer485]

sounds like you need to bed the pad compound into the rotor (are the rotors new?) to make the two materials familiar with each other. Get the car up to 60mph and firmly slow down to 10mph, then speed up to 60mph again, back down to 10mph. Do this 8-10 times over and over again and I bet the noise will go away.

It looks like a may need to be a bit more aggressive with bedding. I have done it twice, but both times I have done about 6 stops from 60-20. I sounds like I may not be getting enough heat to put down a really good transfer layer. I am guessing the noise is coming from the faint machining marks on the brand new front rotors interacting with the pads at those really slow speeds / light pressure. During normal driving and most stopping, everything is silent.

[r4dr]

Have non-drilled rotors ever been able to be found for this swap?