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Porsche Brembo 996 BBK conversion

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    #91
    Originally posted by liam821 View Post
    I finally got around to install the rear Porsche calipers using the CM brackets. Here was my take on them.

    a). The dowel pins that hold the pads in place (they're about 10mm wide) were ridiculously close to the rotor - like less than a millimeter. So after scratching my head for a bit making sure I did everything right I ended up getting advice from Tbonem3 to grind them down. Which is exactly what I did. After about a minute or two with a grinder, they fit perfectly.

    b). I used the CM brake line kit. The fitting on one of the lines that connect to the car's hard brake lines wasn't threaded correctly - which caused me to almost cross-thread the car's hard-line. I was able to clean up the threads with a tap and everything fit together finally. The other hose was fine. Just be really careful connecting to the hard lines, you don't want to mess up the threads.

    c) I hate brake fluid. The whole hard-line fiasco made a bloody huge mess

    d) I can't paint nearly as good as Tbonem3 , his calipers look better than mine.

    e) I'm super annoyed that the CM brackets can't use the taller pads like the RR brackets since those are the pads I ordered. So now I'm either going to have to buy another set of brake pads (probably the cheaper thing to do) or replace the brackets. I guess if I buy another set of brackets, I can run the smaller pad in the rear, the bigger in the front, and then when it comes time to doing pads I'll already have a set of pads. But still, the RR brackets seem like the better deal.




    You can also just buy a replacement set, they're not super expensive.
    it appears RR is the way to go.
    • 2006 AW/IR Manual
    • Karbonius Race / Alpha- N
    • Supersprint
    • KW V3
    • 996 Brembo
    • ZCP / PSS

    Comment


      #92
      Originally posted by bassel_sy View Post

      it appears RR is the way to go.
      Yep, totally - at least for the rear. Well worth the extra $50 or whatever it costs. I shouldn't/can't blame CM for the whole brake line fiasco as they don't manufacture them in-house and the other one was perfect, and I should have been more careful and checked the threads beforehand.
      E46 324i k24/dct/turbo Build Thread
      Phoenix Yellow e46m3 Build Thread

      Comment


        #93
        Originally posted by liam821 View Post

        Yep, totally - at least for the rear. Well worth the extra $50 or whatever it costs. I shouldn't/can't blame CM for the whole brake line fiasco as they don't manufacture them in-house and the other one was perfect, and I should have been more careful and checked the threads beforehand.
        I have both CM and RR, RRs are def lighter and when i went to a machine shop for my calipers, had the brackets with me and the guy was really impressed with RR quality. Will stick with these.
        • 2006 AW/IR Manual
        • Karbonius Race / Alpha- N
        • Supersprint
        • KW V3
        • 996 Brembo
        • ZCP / PSS

        Comment


          #94
          Originally posted by WOLFN8TR View Post

          If you are talking about these metal pins just use a knife and scratch most of it off then use some sand cloth to sand them down. You can use some 400 grit sand paper and some polish to make them shine like chrome if you want to go that route.

          Click image for larger version

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          Thanks! I try a razor blade and some sand cloth...maybe even a wire brush on the Dremel. Acetone was another option, but not sure I want to risk it getting on any other part of the caliper.
          2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

          Comment


            #95
            Razor blades and sand cloth worked great for removing the factory powder coating. I did try using a Dremel with the wire wheel bits but it ate them up fast and it was hard to get them in there.

            Click image for larger version

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            TTFS Engine/SMG Tune - CSL 255 - SGT Headers/Sect 1/SCZA
            Brembo 996 - ARC-8's - BWS 500S 9k/11k - Valentine 1 - BlueBus - Orion V4's
            Evolve Eventuri
            - VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser/CSL Trunk

            Comment


              #96
              What pad combine have people found to work best? ATE, Akebono, or is there another pad thats recommended?

              Comment


                #97
                Very thorough and well photographed DIY Porsche BBK ugrade sir. Itching to save up to put together my own creation!

                Comment


                  #98
                  Seems like the general consensus is that the RR brackets are the way to go.... But from what I understand- both require some grinding? So the main advantage of RR is just to get taller rear pads?

                  Also, I was curious if anyone knows what paint code the blue part of the BMW roundel is? I am thinking about seeing if my local auto body store can mix me up some high temp in that color....

                  I am TiAg on graphite VMR 710’s 19”, 8.5” fronts ET35 , 9.5 rears ET22. Also going to be interested to see if I need any spacers

                  Comment


                    #99
                    Originally posted by WOLFN8TR View Post
                    Razor blades and sand cloth worked great for removing the factory powder coating. I did try using a Dremel with the wire wheel bits but it ate them up fast and it was hard to get them in there.

                    Click image for larger version

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                    Best method and tool to get is a sand blaster tool with aluminum oxide media. While sandpaper may work, it fails in several areas. It doesn't give the substrate the proper 'tooth' to bite into and you can't get into all the nooks and crannies with sandpaper.

                    There are lots of affordable blasting options out there - even from Harbor Freight - that provide excellent results. Of course if you have the money to spend, a proper blast cabinet is the ideal solution.

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by M Coupe View Post
                      Best method and tool to get is a sand blaster tool with aluminum oxide media. While sandpaper may work, it fails in several areas. It doesn't give the substrate the proper 'tooth' to bite into and you can't get into all the nooks and crannies with sandpaper.
                      It was in reference to this question. The pad pins not the entire caliper, that would take forever and not be very efficient. See post #89.

                      Originally posted by duracellttu View Post
                      Anybody know the best way to remove powder coat? My metal pins weren’t masked off and I want to remove it before installing.

                      TTFS Engine/SMG Tune - CSL 255 - SGT Headers/Sect 1/SCZA
                      Brembo 996 - ARC-8's - BWS 500S 9k/11k - Valentine 1 - BlueBus - Orion V4's
                      Evolve Eventuri
                      - VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser/CSL Trunk

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by WOLFN8TR View Post

                        It was in reference to this question. The pad pins not the entire caliper, that would take forever and not be very efficient. See post #89.

                        Sorry, my mistake! Sandpaper would be more than OK for that.

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by M Coupe View Post
                          Very thorough and well photographed DIY Porsche BBK ugrade sir. Itching to save up to put together my own creation!
                          Thanks!

                          Originally posted by pawa_k2001 View Post
                          What pad combine have people found to work best? ATE, Akebono, or is there another pad thats recommended?
                          Best for what? Best street pad would be stock porsche textars imo.
                          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                          More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                            Best for what? Best street pad would be stock porsche textars imo.
                            Looking for a happy medium. M3 isn't a daily, it only does weekend on back road twisties and sometimes track days.

                            It does this about 90% of the time.

                            Comment


                              One of the biggest pluses of this conversion is how easy pad changes are, so I would get Textar for street, then a dedicated track pad.
                              DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                              /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                              More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by HDdave View Post
                                Seems like the general consensus is that the RR brackets are the way to go.... But from what I understand- both require some grinding? So the main advantage of RR is just to get taller rear pads?

                                Also, I was curious if anyone knows what paint code the blue part of the BMW roundel is? I am thinking about seeing if my local auto body store can mix me up some high temp in that color....

                                I am TiAg on graphite VMR 710’s 19”, 8.5” fronts ET35 , 9.5 rears ET22. Also going to be interested to see if I need any spacers
                                I think this was mentioned earlier, but im not 100% or I saw it in the other BBK DIY, but to my understanding even the RR rear brackets need machined down.. Well wait for the BBK Gurus to answer lol
                                • 2006 AW/IR Manual
                                • Karbonius Race / Alpha- N
                                • Supersprint
                                • KW V3
                                • 996 Brembo
                                • ZCP / PSS

                                Comment

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