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Review: Cobra Nogaro seats (uniquely street friendly fixed back bucket seat)

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    Just wanted to chime in for the other short kings and queens who are unsure if they’ll be able to see over the steering wheel. I’m using the top hole in both the front and rear, and I think the position is perfect for street driving. Hopefully the photo lets you get a sense of what it would be like. I could prob use the bottom hole in the rear, and it would be about the same height as my old Sparco Circuit.

    Can’t speak for leather or vinyl center cushions, but with the dynamica/suede cushions, I stay planted in the seat. I just made a 2.5 hour drive this morning, and I had zero discomfort.

    For reference I’m 5’7”, 160 lbs, 30-31” waist (athletic build). If you’re in Austin or the Houston area (Katy) and would like to check out the Nogaros, feel free to reach out.

    Click image for larger version

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      Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
      For reference I’m 5’7”, 160 lbs, 30-31” waist (athletic build).]
      I'm 5'11" (long legs/short torso though) and my view out of the car is pretty much the same.

      Haven't measured my torso, but for reference, my shoulders sit just barely below the top edge of the harness holes on a Sportster CS and right in line with the bottom edge of the harness holes on a Pole Position ABE.
      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

      Comment


        That's basically my POV with the seat in the reclined position, for me it would be perfect if the bracket had a hole in the position between the two holes. But we can't always get what we want.
        2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
        Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
        Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

        OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
        RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

        2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
        Instagram

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          Using a $25 eBay lumber bag worked out well, unfortunately the line isn't long enough so the pump (or "nutsack") is under the seat and cannot be pumped up while driving, oh well.

          Well worth it, and well worth the $125 savings vs. the Brey Krause lumbar bag even if the BK bag had a longer line or lasts longer the price difference is massive.




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          Attached Files
          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
          Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
          Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

          OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
          RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

          2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
          Instagram

          Comment


            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
            Using a $25 eBay lumber bag worked out well, unfortunately the line isn't long enough so the pump (or "nutsack") is under the seat and cannot be pumped up while driving, oh well.

            Well worth it, and well worth the $125 savings vs. the Brey Krause lumbar bag even if the BK bag had a longer line or lasts longer the price difference is massive.




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            I bet you could extend the tubing. I was looking at the Corbeau lumbar support. $55 and the line should be long enough to reach the front.
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              Originally posted by SQ13 View Post

              I bet you could extend the tubing. I was looking at the Corbeau lumbar support. $55 and the line should be long enough to reach the front.
              That would likely work, one could just coupler a longer piece in, not like it's some crazy amount of air pressure.
              I'll try that and report back, if the $25 bag could be made better with another $5-10 in tubing/coupler and it lasts a decent amount of time seems like a no brainer to me
              2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
              Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
              Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

              OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
              RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

              2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
              Instagram

              Comment


                Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

                That would likely work, one could just coupler a longer piece in, not like it's some crazy amount of air pressure.
                I'll try that and report back, if the $25 bag could be made better with another $5-10 in tubing/coupler and it lasts a decent amount of time seems like a no brainer to me
                Curious to hear about your results. I’ll report back on the Corbeau lumbar support when I get mine.
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                Interlagos Blue Street Car Journal

                Comment


                  Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                  Using a $25 eBay lumber bag worked out well, unfortunately the line isn't long enough so the pump (or "nutsack") is under the seat and cannot be pumped up while driving, oh well.

                  Well worth it, and well worth the $125 savings vs. the Brey Krause lumbar bag even if the BK bag had a longer line or lasts longer the price difference is massive.




                  Click image for larger version Name:	20230210_220453.jpg Views:	0 Size:	75.4 KB ID:	205011 Click image for larger version Name:	20230210_221652.jpg Views:	0 Size:	60.9 KB ID:	205009 Click image for larger version Name:	20230210_221544.jpg Views:	0 Size:	108.6 KB ID:	205008
                  Ha, awesome. Pretty sure I bought the same exact thing as you: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...244#post204244 Has worked well for me.

                  I've got my nuts stashed under the seat as well. Don't really find the need to mess with it too much while driving. If I feel like I need more/less support, I can always pull over and mess with it.
                  2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                  2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                    Ha, awesome. Pretty sure I bought the same exact thing as you: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...244#post204244 Has worked well for me.

                    I've got my nuts stashed under the seat as well. Don't really find the need to mess with it too much while driving. If I feel like I need more/less support, I can always pull over and mess with it.

                    On my, you really did an awesome job there, I just threw my bag behind the seat back padding as it came out of the box. I gotta sit down and read your journal, very neat stuff going on.
                    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                    Instagram

                    Comment


                      Hello friends,

                      I’m seeking your help, or at least personal input, on this subject. Not necessarily with Cobra seats, but with the rails.

                      I've purchased a set of PP ABE and I want to mount them low (at 189cm or 6’2) I touch the roofliner with my helmet and the driving position is SUV like.

                      However, I still want to retain backseat accessibility, since this isn’t a track car and I have a son, and the ocasional friend.

                      I’m leaning towards Speed Engineering’s solution with OEM sliders.

                      My ultimate questions are:

                      - I saw the OP saying that electric sliders will give you a lower driving position. Is this true? I also saw he has since change to manual OEM sliders.

                      - Is it true that OEM sedan and touring sliders allow for more travel? I will need the most amount of travel possible, at least for the passenger seat.

                      - Is it true that sedan and touring sliders will attach the seatbelt receptacle in such a way that it’ll move with the seat while it slides? This isn’t true for other sliders and will need an adapter. Correct?​

                      Thank you 🙏🏼

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Obioban View Post

                        Make all the nuts/bolts loose (other than seat to seat mount).

                        Sit in the seat and slide it back and forth, say, 10 times.

                        Tighten all the nuts/bolts (without removing seat from the car).

                        In my experience, that gets everything lined up nicely.
                        Just did this and fortunately it did make a difference. This was my process:
                        • Loosen bracket to rail and rail to chassis bolts/nuts
                        • Sit in seat and slide back and forth ten times
                        • Torque rail to chassis bolts/nuts to spec
                        • Hand tighten bracket to rail nuts (just barely tight)
                        • Slide seat 10x again
                        • Torque bracket to rail nuts to spec
                        Sliding action isn't perfect, but it's better than before. On my E82 with stock manual seats, you can just barely touch the seat and it'll move. On the E46 you need to grip the base of the seat pretty hard to get it to move, applying force to the seat back binds the rails and it doesn't move at all. Decently easy to move when you're sitting in the seat, but still a bit "sticky".

                        I did gain some travel somehow on the driver's side, which is great. Now I can hit the stop on the rails, whereas before, the seat would interfere with the transmission tunnel. Makes getting into the rear much easier. Maybe I just moved it back and forth so much that I caved the transmission tunnel in slightly.

                        ​​​​​Regardless, I'm happier with the movement of the seats now. Have not tried taking a seat out to see how hard it is to realign the rails though.
                        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by Drifting Squirrel View Post
                          Hello friends,

                          I’m seeking your help, or at least personal input, on this subject. Not necessarily with Cobra seats, but with the rails.

                          I've purchased a set of PP ABE and I want to mount them low (at 189cm or 6’2) I touch the roofliner with my helmet and the driving position is SUV like.

                          However, I still want to retain backseat accessibility, since this isn’t a track car and I have a son, and the ocasional friend.

                          I’m leaning towards Speed Engineering’s solution with OEM sliders.

                          My ultimate questions are:

                          - I saw the OP saying that electric sliders will give you a lower driving position. Is this true? I also saw he has since change to manual OEM sliders.

                          - Is it true that OEM sedan and touring sliders allow for more travel? I will need the most amount of travel possible, at least for the passenger seat.

                          - Is it true that sedan and touring sliders will attach the seatbelt receptacle in such a way that it’ll move with the seat while it slides? This isn’t true for other sliders and will need an adapter. Correct?​

                          Thank you 🙏🏼
                          Hello,

                          i have the same exact setup, PP ABE with speed engineering side mounts and OEM manual rails.
                          Yes it is true that sedan(not sure about touring) sliders have longer travel than coupe sliders, so for rear seat accessibility sedan sliders are your choice.

                          As for the seating height. I am 178cm and with middle seat height setting, I sit way lower than OEM seat with one spare height setting I can go further down(another 2cm). Even I have sunroof car, there is still exactly 10cm above my head(I measured that).
                          There is like 5cm of space under the bottom of the seat and floor.
                          see picture of setup below

                          hope this helps a little bit
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                            I need to get a set of the speed engineering mounts to replace my BK ones. They look much higher quality.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Thoglan View Post
                              I need to get a set of the speed engineering mounts to replace my BK ones. They look much higher quality.
                              i agree they are very well built, they are made of thick 4-5mm steel so not particularly light, but I guess it’s for the safety… the whole assembly with seat and sedan rail weights 14,7kg/32,5lbs. They sell them on burkhart so I guess they could ship anywhere

                              Comment


                                Obioban - I realize this thread is about the Cobras but I had a question re the BK hardware and I’m hoping you may be able to clarify something.

                                I am close to pulling the trigger on a set of Sparcos QRT Performance seats, and I happen to find someone who installed the same seats on his car. The only difference being he went with power sliders whereas I plan to go with manual. But he noted one small issue where he was unable to use any notch other than the highest setting on his side mounts for the rear of his seat. If he tried to go even one notch lower, the seat bottoms would bottom out and come in contact with the OEM rails. And so the net result is a seating position that’s too level; ideally the rear would be positioned lower relative to the front.

                                Do you know what the workaround for this is? I have a note out to BK but figured I’d try my luck here as well.

                                FYI here’s another thread (different from above) but I think they encountered a similar issue despite using non-BK hardware, and thus had to switch to Sparco specific side mounts.

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