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    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    Is it on the key itself? Mine is. (can't get a pic now unfortunately)
    It sure is, I should have looked closer! Thank you.

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      So - I installed CSL headers and CSL Section 2, but because I wanted to figure out how to extend O2 sensors instead of cutting up the sensor wiring in the harness I left US Section 1 with the resonator.

      My dumb question: if I put on the CSL section 1 and don’t plug in O2 and EGT sensors to the DME, will the cats get damaged? I thought I’d be ok running catless for a while but the smell is awful.

      I plan to plug in the O2 and EGT sensors into their respective Section 1 bungs and just keep them tied up for now, but wanted to see if I’d cause any harm to the cats.

      Thanks in advance.
      Last edited by davidinnyc; 04-19-2025, 03:50 PM.

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        Im having a very frustrating issue where I cannot get my car to scan and/or be read on a scanner. I've used every scanner even very expensive Autel Maxisys ones with the same outcome: no link/connection/communication. Whats the best way to get this fixed? Can this be caused by a module refusing to link/communicate with the scanner?
        2006 Silber Grau Metalizat ZCP 6 MT
        M-texture (F2AT) - Turner CSL V2/CatCams 280 272/SSv1/SS Sec1/Sec2 dual res/SCZA TI (raw) - FatCat stage 3 ult 400f/784r - Vorshlag - EC7r 18x9.5 ET35/CRS 275/35/18 - RacingBrake BBK/MileEnd CSL bumper/Vorsteiner Trunk/Cobra Nogaro Circuit Mtexture/GC RCA/YURKan Cages/Hotchkiss/Vibra-technics/

        IG: https://www.instagram.com/htrlo/

        Comment


          Originally posted by CrisSilberGrau View Post
          Im having a very frustrating issue where I cannot get my car to scan and/or be read on a scanner. I've used every scanner even very expensive Autel Maxisys ones with the same outcome: no link/connection/communication. Whats the best way to get this fixed? Can this be caused by a module refusing to link/communicate with the scanner?
          Check for damaged pins on the OBD port; otherwise, it could be caused by a bad steering angle sensor - https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...ad-me.1284285/


          Comment


            Do we still have a running/active Blackstone Oil Analysis thread? I tried looking for it as didn't want to create yet another oil thread lol.

            I just got my report back and both tin and lead are higher now after running Redline 15w50 for two fills with mostly track and HPDE use So now wondering if its already time again for another rod bearing job.. they were changed with OEM ~16k miles ago. Last report (first fill of trying RL 15w50) BS noted Tin was higher, while all my previous reports w LM 10w60 were glowing and engine was wearing good according to them. Im now currently back on LM 10w60.
            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1973.jpg Views:	0 Size:	149.7 KB ID:	302979
            2004 CB/Cinnamon 6MT Coupe
            Instagram
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              Originally posted by BigRussia View Post
              Do we still have a running/active Blackstone Oil Analysis thread? I tried looking for it as didn't want to create yet another oil thread lol.

              I just got my report back and both tin and lead are higher now after running Redline 15w50 for two fills with mostly track and HPDE use So now wondering if its already time again for another rod bearing job.. they were changed with OEM ~16k miles ago. Last report (first fill of trying RL 15w50) BS noted Tin was higher, while all my previous reports w LM 10w60 were glowing and engine was wearing good according to them. Im now currently back on LM 10w60.
              Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_1973.jpg Views:	0 Size:	149.7 KB ID:	302979
              I personally wouldn't go changing rod bearings immediately based on this, but I sure as hell would have done what you did, i.e. go back to the oil that was producing good reports. This may have been a case of fixing what ain't broke.

              Was your usage similar on LM 10W-60, though?
              2008 E90 M3 6MT
              Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions

              2011 E90 328i 6MT
              RWD, slicktop, no iDrive

              Comment


                Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
                I personally wouldn't go changing rod bearings immediately based on this, but I sure as hell would have done what you did, i.e. go back to the oil that was producing good reports. This may have been a case of fixing what ain't broke.

                Was your usage similar on LM 10W-60, though?
                Haha yup, I’m not too worried since I figure yeah maybe it’s the Redline oil. Now if on the next report being back on LM trends like this I’d really start worrying/planning for RB service.

                Yup exact same use on the LiquiMoly GT1 10W-60, I was doing the same amount of track days on the previous LM fills/oa reports; they're the 2023 and 2022 reports on there (even having more mileage on the 2023 fill). Only reason I switched away from LM was cause of reading Bimmerworld’s tech articles and them recommending the RL 15w50 for S54’s that see some track time :/
                2004 CB/Cinnamon 6MT Coupe
                Instagram
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                  Originally posted by BigRussia View Post

                  Haha yup, I’m not too worried since I figure yeah maybe it’s the Redline oil. Now if on the next report being back on LM trends like this I’d really start worrying/planning for RB service.

                  Yup exact same use on the LiquiMoly GT1 10W-60, I was doing the same amount of track days on the previous LM fills/oa reports; they're the 2023 and 2022 reports on there (even having more mileage on the 2023 fill). Only reason I switched away from LM was cause of reading Bimmerworld’s tech articles and them recommending the RL 15w50 for S54’s that see some track time :/
                  I guess it's possible that what you saw was a mild wear spike due to Red Line's aggressive chemistry and it'd go away after a bit. I wouldn't personally take that chance, but it does give us a reason to give BW the benefit of the doubt on this. Either way, for whatever my opinion's worth, I can't blame you for taking their reco.
                  2008 E90 M3 6MT
                  Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions

                  2011 E90 328i 6MT
                  RWD, slicktop, no iDrive

                  Comment


                    I have a dumb question. We never had halogens headlights on Canadian E46 M3 and I was wondering if halogens had leveling switches on front and rear control arms too??

                    I don't think they have it but just want to confirm
                    GT4 Composites

                    2003.5 BMW E46 M3 Laguna Seca Blue / LSB 6mt
                    2006 BMW E46 M3 Estoril blue / Black 6mt
                    2024 Toyota Land Cruiser 1958 Black

                    Comment


                      No
                      DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                      /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                      More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                        No
                        Thanks, my LSB will be even lighter!!
                        GT4 Composites

                        2003.5 BMW E46 M3 Laguna Seca Blue / LSB 6mt
                        2006 BMW E46 M3 Estoril blue / Black 6mt
                        2024 Toyota Land Cruiser 1958 Black

                        Comment


                          My turn for today: Years ago I went with the replacement so-called (as I recall, anyway) "aero" wiper blades and I think I tossed my original blades. Can I still buy those and the appropriate rubber inserts? I think I want to go back to original after driving in the rain today and watching these "aero" blades dance all over the place.

                          Comment


                            Is it possible to remove/replace the front and rear windshield rubber trim (gasket) without pulling the glass? I just gave it a look and damn those things are stiff and deep under the glass.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Avedis View Post
                              Is it possible to remove/replace the front and rear windshield rubber trim (gasket) without pulling the glass? I just gave it a look and damn those things are stiff and deep under the glass.
                              If they are anything like the E60 M5, they should be removable and replaceable with the windshields in place. They usually have a metal U shaped frame built into the seal that clips into the glass. It can sometimes take a lot of effort to get the gasket removal started. Best to tape off the area to keep the paint from getting damaged.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
                                My turn for today: Years ago I went with the replacement so-called (as I recall, anyway) "aero" wiper blades and I think I tossed my original blades. Can I still buy those and the appropriate rubber inserts? I think I want to go back to original after driving in the rain today and watching these "aero" blades dance all over the place.
                                The frames appear to be NLA. There should be a few NOS on eBay or used sets from any E46.

                                While FCP no longer carries the Bosch inserts, one or two other venders might still have them.

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