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    Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

    Straight-up stealing this idea from another forum.

    Is there anything you've wanted to ask but were afraid to? Maybe you're worried about grumpy forum curmudgeons condescending to you about the search function. Maybe you feel like you don't know much about cars in general or this one in particular. Maybe you just don't know if your question has been asked and answered a million times, and you don't want to annoy anyone.

    If so, go ahead and post your question here. Flaming, sarcasm, condescension, and deliberately unhelpful responses will not be tolerated. We want you to get the help and feedback you want. If it turns out your question is better than you thought it was, we can always spin it off into its own thread.

    Have at it!
    2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
    Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

    2012 Mazda5 6MT
    Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

    #2
    Anybody have DIY to remove CD stuck in stock BMW "BUSINESS" head unit? The eject button does not expel compact disc as it should. I've tried encouraging front lip of CD with small pic without success. Im not likely going to remove headunit from dash and perform exploratory surgery on radio without receiving direction from forum first.


    Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

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      #3
      Originally posted by akamin68 View Post
      Anybody have DIY to remove CD stuck in stock BMW "BUSINESS" head unit? The eject button does not expel compact disc as it should. I've tried encouraging front lip of CD with small pic without success. Im not likely going to remove headunit from dash and perform exploratory surgery on radio without receiving direction from forum first.


      Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk
      I had to do this recently. You might be able to pull the CD out with tweezers or something, but you'll likely damage it. Pulling the head unit and opening it up isn't hard, just keep undoing screws until you get to the disk lol. PM me with any questions you have.
      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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        #4
        my car is 114,xxx KM (71k miles), the car is only driven a few months out of the year so it sits most of the time.

        i noticed the differential axle seal developed a very small leak, i'm looking to collect parts over the winter.

        i searched the history and saw pb_e46 had replaced "differential main pinion seal, output shaft axle seals, drain plugs and Redline fluid" on one of his cars that he is selling.

        i'm assuming that's what i should do and i might as well do oem differential bushings while its out? anything else?

        Comment


          #5
          Did a compression test. Surprisingly the numbers are alright for age and mileage (174k) - 160, 170, 170, 170, 174, 175. Is the variance between 1 and 6 too much?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by sg.e46m3 View Post
            my car is 114,xxx KM (71k miles), the car is only driven a few months out of the year so it sits most of the time.

            i noticed the differential axle seal developed a very small leak, i'm looking to collect parts over the winter.

            i searched the history and saw pb_e46 had replaced "differential main pinion seal, output shaft axle seals, drain plugs and Redline fluid" on one of his cars that he is selling.

            i'm assuming that's what i should do and i might as well do oem differential bushings while its out? anything else?
            The "leak" if it's on the passenger side especially, is not an issue. It's weeping, not leaking. As long as the fluid is not dripping on the ground. The diff bushings use a stout foam. You don't need new ones at 71k. Ofc some people, like myself, replace things way too early, but you don't HAVE to.
            DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
            /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
            More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by S3diment View Post
              Did a compression test. Surprisingly the numbers are alright for age and mileage (174k) - 160, 170, 170, 170, 174, 175. Is the variance between 1 and 6 too much?
              You don't wan't about 10% or more variance between. You're a 8.5% there between 1 & 6. Try the test another time or two and avg the results. Cly 1 was probably the first one you did, so you might have done a tighter job as you moved on. If you do it again and get a little higher than 160, I'd say you're ok.
              DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
              /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
              More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                The "leak" if it's on the passenger side especially, is not an issue. It's weeping, not leaking. As long as the fluid is not dripping on the ground. The diff bushings use a stout foam. You don't need new ones at 71k. Ofc some people, like myself, replace things way too early, but you don't HAVE to.
                I never found out why the passenger side leaks. Do you know?

                Comment


                  #9
                  No can't say so. There is quite a bit of lateral play. Not sure if it's an engineering issue or what. It's been a known thing as far as I can remember.
                  Last edited by Tbonem3; 09-16-2020, 09:56 PM.
                  DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                  /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                  More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Passenger side output axle is short and stubby, compared to driver side and has more play, which probably agitates the seal more. That is just by nature of how the diff is put together with ring and pinion on the left side with the clutch pac unit (into which the output axles insert) on the right side.

                    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                    Youtube DIYs and more

                    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                      You don't wan't about 10% or more variance between. You're a 8.5% there between 1 & 6. Try the test another time or two and avg the results. Cly 1 was probably the first one you did, so you might have done a tighter job as you moved on. If you do it again and get a little higher than 160, I'd say you're ok.
                      Thank you. Is there any research that suggests a bad or failing Vanos unit might cause low C1 values?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        What’s my best option to allow streaming music? I’ve been looking at F80 and E90 M3’s for a while now and the 6MT options have ballooned in price so I’m gonna stick with my E46 for a while.

                        I have a Silver Grey with grey interior. Obviously there’s lots of black trim, steering wheel, dash, etc. there’s a great set of recaros locally but they are black. Anyone think it would look bad to throw them in there?

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                          #13
                          Also In keeping it I’m considering a few more mods but not sure what to do. I’ve got a set of Apex wheels I love off a Z4M, rears are 10.5 and look awesome. Dropped down to 18” from the stock 19’s and they made a ton of difference. Other than that I’ve got the slightest exterior mods ie grills and side markers and then the AS SSK. Leave it as is or are there a few no brainer mods?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            What is the recommended lube for fuel injector o-rings? I have seen everything from spit,oil,Vaseline and so on and so forth. About to replace my injectors here soon. Thanks!


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            2006 ///M3 6MT Coupe Jet Black Track Car
                            [Karbonius] [MCS 2WNR] [Zionsville] [ [SPAL] [Ground Control] [Beisan] [Rogue Engineering] [Vorshlag] [Redish] [CMP] [Bimmerworld] [Kassel] [TTFS] [Apex] [TMS Sways] [Buildjournal] [Radium] [Ultimate Pedals] [OMP Seats/Harnesses] [UUC SSK] [Custom Cage] [Supersprint] [Carbontastic] [MEC CSL Diffuser] [Trackspec] [Street Faction] [Condor] [Hard Motorsports] [AiM] [Maintenance] [Ask me about products and exact weight of front end components]

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by S3diment View Post

                              Thank you. Is there any research that suggests a bad or failing Vanos unit might cause low C1 values?
                              Vanos controls the camshaft which at startup (or cranking for compression test) will hold both cams in the same position to facilitate a start, so it should "impact" all cylinders equally.

                              I would spray some carb cleaner into the spark plug tube to rinse any oil residue that could be preventing you from tightening on the tester and getting a good seal.

                              Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                              Youtube DIYs and more

                              All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                              PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                              Comment

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