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    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
    would it be feasible to setup the i/o button on a zcp steering wheel for sport mode on a non-zcp MK20 car
    MK20 won't matter for this, sport mode is controlled by the DME (and the HW triggering mechanism is the same between non-HP and HP DMEs).

    There's a bunch of different configurations for the switch panel, so lots of wiring diagrams as well. Here's an example one with the sport button labeled (look for "driving dynamics"):

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Screenshot 2025-09-25 at 4.39.29 PM.png Views:	0 Size:	191.2 KB ID:	320627

    IIRC, the button pulls to GND and the DME reacts accordingly. If you emulate that with the ZCP button, it should just work. I would stick a multimeter on the output pin of the button (with everything connected) and see how it's set up. Then do the same on the ZCP trim.

    Here's an excellent resource on how the switch center works electrically: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...087#post246087

    Another option is to swap in the E39 M5 wiper stalk. Identical to ours, except for an extra button (conveniently) labeled "S" at the end of it: 61318375407. I know for a fact that this one pulls to GND: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...950#post254950
    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - SSV1 - HJS - Mullet Tune - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

    Comment


      Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

      MK20 won't matter for this, sport mode is controlled by the DME (and the HW triggering mechanism is the same between non-HP and HP DMEs).

      There's a bunch of different configurations for the switch panel, so lots of wiring diagrams as well. Here's an example one with the sport button labeled (look for "driving dynamics"):

      Click image for larger version Name:	Screenshot 2025-09-25 at 4.39.29 PM.png Views:	0 Size:	191.2 KB ID:	320627

      IIRC, the button pulls to GND and the DME reacts accordingly. If you emulate that with the ZCP button, it should just work. I would stick a multimeter on the output pin of the button (with everything connected) and see how it's set up. Then do the same on the ZCP trim.

      Here's an excellent resource on how the switch center works electrically: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...087#post246087

      Another option is to swap in the E39 M5 wiper stalk. Identical to ours, except for an extra button (conveniently) labeled "S" at the end of it: 61318375407. I know for a fact that this one pulls to GND: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...950#post254950
      You n Bry5on are next level, no surprise.

      While completely doable, now I'm thinking this may be more complex than I want to bother with as I'm adverse to tampering with factory wires when avoidable.

      Perhaps I should try this a different way - what happens i slap this on my steering wheel, plug into the one harness female that's on there and do nothing else. I assume I just have a sole i/o button that works as it would before?

      Comment


        If I were you I wouldn't do it. Sport button in my opinion is just less throttle control, as it just makes the throttle by wire less linear and it doesn't bring any power.
        Just my 2 cents
        2004 E46 M3 • TiAG / LSB nappa

        Comment


          Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

          You n Bry5on are next level, no surprise.

          While completely doable, now I'm thinking this may be more complex than I want to bother with as I'm adverse to tampering with factory wires when avoidable.

          Perhaps I should try this a different way - what happens i slap this on my steering wheel, plug into the one harness female that's on there and do nothing else. I assume I just have a sole i/o button that works as it would before?

          https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...uine-bmw-part/
          You could build yourself a little adapter harness that taps into the switch center connector, so that you don't have to modify any factory wiring. Although, I do think the female connector is molded into the case for the switches, so you might have to get creative there. Maybe unpin the factory wire and move it over to your harness?

          Alternatively, you could tap into the DME side of things. I got some break out boards made for the X60003 DME connector a while back: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...384#post112384 You could do something similar for X60004 (where the sport mode wire runs to) and tap into that.

          The button on the ZCP trim has a wire running directly from it to a dedicated input on the ZCP MK60 that toggles M track mode on and off. Regular MK60s and MK20s do not have this extra input pin. Unfortunately, the button won't do anything if you just install it on your car without some custom wiring.
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - SSV1 - HJS - Mullet Tune - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

          Comment


            Flow heinzboehmer

            Appreciate the info that helps a lot. I think this may not be worth the effort for a button. Quite a few times I almost purchased a zcp wheel and never thought about the fact that the button would be useless.

            Looks like it may be easier to just go with a full button delete like Avedis has shown here

            Comment


              What’s the best tool to install an OEM front diff mount with the subframe in the car? I know the diff needs to come out to make room.
              http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
              '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
              '01 M3, Imola/black

              Comment


                Nevermind. Scam.
                101K Followers, 0 Following, 1,593 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Sale Parts Motorsport Alpina AC Schnitzer Hamann (@parts_groupe_)
                Last edited by Kipjames3; 09-27-2025, 08:18 AM.

                Comment


                  If I replace a single front swaybar endlink, is there a potential for alignment to be thrown off at all?

                  Context: I did endlinks and tie rods while I was doing rod bearings. A few weeks later I also replaced the front control arms because I had ripped a greased boot on one of the control arm ball joints. They had 110k and 23 years on them anyway, so, fine. In removing one of the old control arms, I had to use a torch to get the control arm off the knuckle (broke two ball joint separator tools leading up to that). In using that torch, I accidentally melted the plastic backing of one of the endlink ball joints, which is what holds the grease in on the endlink. Whoops!

                  So, now, I just want to replaced that one endlink that I melted. Just had the car aligned, and would like to not have to do that again... any guidance on whether or not replacing the endlink will mess alignment up? I'm pretty clueless when it comes to suspension stuff overall.

                  (followup question: does replacing front struts require alignment?)
                  Last edited by ATB88; 09-29-2025, 06:58 PM.

                  Comment


                    Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers, this is a 90% street driven car.

                    - What camber plates should I be looking at that are good for the street and quality?

                    - RSM's I am thinking stock but if some Vorshlag or similar RSM's don't add a ton of NVH I could go that way too.

                    - I don't see endlinks included, what's a popular option here with the R&T's?
                    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                    Instagram

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
                      If I replace a single front swaybar endlink, is there a potential for alignment to be thrown off at all?

                      Context: I did endlinks and tie rods while I was doing rod bearings. A few weeks later I also replaced the front control arms because I had ripped a greased boot on one of the control arm ball joints. They had 110k and 23 years on them anyway, so, fine. In removing one of the old control arms, I had to use a torch to get the control arm off the knuckle (broke two ball joint separator tools leading up to that). In using that torch, I accidentally melted the plastic backing of one of the endlink ball joints, which is what holds the grease in on the endlink. Whoops!

                      So, now, I just want to replaced that one endlink that I melted. Just had the car aligned, and would like to not have to do that again... any guidance on whether or not replacing the endlink will mess alignment up? I'm pretty clueless when it comes to suspension stuff overall.

                      (followup question: does replacing front struts require alignment?)
                      Sway bar end link does not affect the allignment at all. You are good to just replace the missing one.

                      The strut replacement will need a reallignment as the removal process would change with your camber settings. You could always mark the location of the original bolts on the top and get it close, but if you want it exactly like it was before would probably need a reallignment.
                      Last edited by dustyice; 09-29-2025, 07:32 PM.
                      '02 M3 Oxford Green/Cinnamon 6MT

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                        Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers, this is a 90% street driven car.

                        - What camber plates should I be looking at that are good for the street and quality?

                        - RSM's I am thinking stock but if some Vorshlag or similar RSM's don't add a ton of NVH I could go that way too.

                        - I don't see endlinks included, what's a popular option here with the R&T's?
                        I have Vorshlag camber plates and have zero issues with them on my R&T's. I can not tell the diffrence in harshness from when I ran the same coils with stock camber plates.

                        Maybe someone else can chime in, but it is my understanding that Ohlins R&T do not require aftermaket end links.
                        '02 M3 Oxford Green/Cinnamon 6MT

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                          Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers, this is a 90% street driven car.

                          - What camber plates should I be looking at that are good for the street and quality?

                          - RSM's I am thinking stock but if some Vorshlag or similar RSM's don't add a ton of NVH I could go that way too.

                          - I don't see endlinks included, what's a popular option here with the R&T's?
                          How is road quality where you live?

                          Turner street camber plates are like stock in terms of NVH. Same goes for TCK or Rogue rubber RSMs. If your stock RSMs are still in good shape, I'd just reuse those. The only nice feature of those aftermarket RSMs is that the nuts to remove the damper can be accessed from the wheel well rather than from the trunk.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                            Thinking of buying some Ohlin's R&T to replace my shit BC coilovers, this is a 90% street driven car.

                            - What camber plates should I be looking at that are good for the street and quality?

                            - RSM's I am thinking stock but if some Vorshlag or similar RSM's don't add a ton of NVH I could go that way too.

                            - I don't see endlinks included, what's a popular option here with the R&T's?
                            I would recommend Vorshlags, I have zero complaints with mine, including NVH. Probably only harsher upon hard impacts(potholes). Order from 3dm.

                            Turner has good solutions apparently, but that ECS support, shipping delays, and sourcing individual hardware if needed is too much of a liability. You should consider stock which are also great with Ohlins.

                            I did use Turner for adjustable endlinks though, no complaints there just tighten the adjuster nuts down well.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                              How is road quality where you live?

                              Turner street camber plates are like stock in terms of NVH. Same goes for TCK or Rogue rubber RSMs. If your stock RSMs are still in good shape, I'd just reuse those. The only nice feature of those aftermarket RSMs is that the nuts to remove the damper can be accessed from the wheel well rather than from the trunk.
                              Roads are actually pretty good here.
                              So the Turner plates plates are considered a decent product as compared to a Vorshlag/G.C?
                              2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                              Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                              Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                              OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                              RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                              2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                              Instagram

                              Comment


                                I've been happy with Ground Control suspension components. Currently using GC Street camber plates, RSM, and front endlinks.
                                "your BMW has how many miles!?"

                                2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
                                1989 325i sedan - track project coming soon!
                                2007 GX470

                                build/journal
                                ig: @zzyzx85

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