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    #46


    Originally posted by ridebikes View Post
    I keep seeing this product on our local CL: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts...210048143.html

    But I've never, to my knowledge at least, seen a E46 M3 with something like this installed. It's not quite a mudflap. Does anyone have experience with these? Why don't more people run them?
    I actually run something line this (10x cheaper and not carbon fiber) on the front of my s2k. With a square setup the tires poke out quite a bit, so front fenders and doors get bombarded with rocks/dirt.

    I feel like it's kinda love it/hate it look. Like you said, they are not quite mudflaps... but for me protecting the paint is more important.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    Youtube DIYs and more

    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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      #47
      Hey that's kinda cool. Maybe even just pop them on for track day or canyon runs?
      DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
      /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
      More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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        #48
        Do you need to register the battery on these cars? Changing the specs to a light weight battery.

        Comment


          #49
          Originally posted by S3diment View Post
          Do you need to register the battery on these cars? Changing the specs to a light weight battery.
          Nope
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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            #50
            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

            Nope
            Thanks, I replaced the alternator and all the belts. When I test the battery using the OBD, it shows as 12.5V. It does take a long crank to start, when it does finally start up, the reading shows at 11.5 and then back to 12.0-12.3. Does that mean that battery is likely shot? I can't think of anything that would be wrong with the install of the alternator other than the positive cable nut on the alternator.

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              #51
              Here's a fun one. Has anybody experienced a sheared VANOS hub tab that didn't stick inside the oil pump disk and also missed the timing chain? Found that my hub tab is sheared but that tab is nowhere to be found. No indication that anything was wrong either. Everything sounded normal, no codes, etc.

              I had the oil pan off maybe a month ago and haven't driven it a whole lot since. No piece of missing tab in there when it was off the car and I'd find it hard to believe that it would have failed the way it did without any indication of it.

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                #52
                I see a stock 05 radio for sale and it says Aux/MP3 available. Is that standard? His face looks the same as my radio without an obvious Aux input.

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by Swizbeatz View Post
                  I see a stock 05 radio for sale and it says Aux/MP3 available. Is that standard? His face looks the same as my radio without an obvious Aux input.
                  You can buy a $15 cable. Radios made after like September 2002 all are aux capable. They aren't pulling your leg. You have to plug it in and find a mounting point. It doesn't come from BMW with the cable.
                  This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                  https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                  "Do it right once or do it twice"

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                    #54
                    Ok here is mine, anyone know what this hose is for the one beside the wiper washer? I filled the wiper washer and some fluids just come out from
                    that hose







                    Attached Files

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by mikeetastic View Post
                      Ok here is mine, anyone know what this hose is for the one beside the wiper washer? I filled the wiper washer and some fluids just come out from that hose
                      Overflow- mine is still zip-tied and elevated higher than yours. Yours seems to be cut?
                      Last edited by Da Jemster; 10-22-2020, 08:02 PM.
                      17 iO1 i3
                      16 F22 M235i
                      08 E93 M3
                      04 E46 M3 Carbon Schwarz - SMG II - Discovery Automotive tuned - AFE Stage 2 - SS Stepped - SS Metallic Cats - Eisenmann X-pipe - SS Race - 4.10 - ACS CF lip - 6000K Heads & Fogs - Tein S

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                        #56
                        Originally posted by S3diment View Post

                        Thanks, I replaced the alternator and all the belts. When I test the battery using the OBD, it shows as 12.5V. It does take a long crank to start, when it does finally start up, the reading shows at 11.5 and then back to 12.0-12.3. Does that mean that battery is likely shot? I can't think of anything that would be wrong with the install of the alternator other than the positive cable nut on the alternator.

                        I think it's time for new battery - voltage before cranking the starter should be a tad over 13V on healthy battery.
                        '01 M3, JB/IR, SS, TCK DA, Apex, TMS CSL, HTE, 4:10 gears - original owner
                        '00 slicktop Touring converting to full M3 Touring

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Originally posted by S3diment View Post

                          Thanks, I replaced the alternator and all the belts. When I test the battery using the OBD, it shows as 12.5V. It does take a long crank to start, when it does finally start up, the reading shows at 11.5 and then back to 12.0-12.3. Does that mean that battery is likely shot? I can't think of anything that would be wrong with the install of the alternator other than the positive cable nut on the alternator.
                          Check the battery with a multimeter. Off, the battery should not drop below 12.45V. If it is, it isn't holding the charged or being charged. It should be like 13.5-14v on. This is at the battery, not through the computer.
                          This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                          https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                          "Do it right once or do it twice"

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Other than vibration at idle...any reason NOT to use poly for engine mounts, tranny mounts, diff bushings, etc? Been happy w/ my poly RTABs and tranny mounts and they've been in the car forever.....

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Originally posted by M3Bob View Post
                              Other than vibration at idle...any reason NOT to use poly for engine mounts, tranny mounts, diff bushings, etc? Been happy w/ my poly RTABs and tranny mounts and they've been in the car forever.....
                              I have Vibratecnics solid engine and tranny mounts, I love them, makes the car feel very raw and super reactive. The feel of the car once at speed is really nice, I am yet to do full subframe reinforcement, I think this sensation will improve greatly after as well.

                              HOWEVER, idle will sometimes drive you nuts, everything might rattle eventually. I have to find whats rattling and make it not rattle, that's sometimes a futile attempt.

                              Im not well versed on poly for mounts. Solid is a preference, def it is mine. OEM stock is great as well, driven cars with it, they feel like Cadillac's compared to mine lol.
                              2006 Silber Grau Metalizat ZCP 6 MT M-texture (F2AT) - Turner CSL V2/Schrick 280 272/SSv1/SS Sec1/Sec2 dual res/SCZA TI (raw) - FatCat stage 3 ult 400f/784r - EC7r 18x9.5 ET35/CRS 275/35/18 - RacingBrake BBK/MileEnd CSL bumper/Vorsteiner Trunk/Cobra Nogaro Circuit Mtexture/GC RCA/YURKan Cages/Hotchkiss/Vibra-technics/

                              IG: https://www.instagram.com/htrlo/

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Should have pointed out...I don’t sit at idle much. It’s usually highway miles for me (200K plus and counting!). Plus it’s a convertible so it’s got a bit more reinforcement built-in.

                                Going to tackle the engine mounts when I do the front suspension and we’ll see....

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