Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Red Oil Pressure Light comes on when idling (right after rod bearing replacement)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #76
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    Sorry mate, I think its a pita either way.


    See page 10, there is a special tool for measuring at the oil filter cap:

    http://www.billswebspace.com/MS54B32TrainingModule.pdf
    Looks like that special tool has a long lead time. Only other "easy" option would be the VAC oil cap: https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...s54-p1065.aspx

    Comment


      #77
      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3018.jpeg
Views:	404
Size:	192.3 KB
ID:	86794 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3019.jpeg
Views:	409
Size:	172.6 KB
ID:	86793
      Took the airbox off to fully open up the oil filter housing and only managed to break one small piece of plastic along the way. Don't have the pressure switch off as of yet because none of my wrenches are big enough, have to get a 24mm one (correct me on this if I'm wrong please).

      Big question-- once I hook my mechanical gauge up to the car, do I have to put everything back together? Airbox, intake, MAF, filters, all the hoses, etc etc? In my mind it doesn't make sense to put everything back together only to have to take it apart again just to take the gauge back off. What needs to be plugged back in and what can I leave off for the time being?
      Attached Files
      2005 BMW ///M3 Alpine White/Imola Red 6MT

      Comment


        #78
        Originally posted by MTiz View Post
        Big question-- once I hook my mechanical gauge up to the car, do I have to put everything back together? Airbox, intake, MAF, filters, all the hoses, etc etc? In my mind it doesn't make sense to put everything back together only to have to take it apart again just to take the gauge back off. What needs to be plugged back in and what can I leave off for the time being?
        Car will trip out without the MAF. I would just position everything back without bolts or hose clamps or anything and plug in the MAF.

        Edit: oh and the starter cable, car won't start without that. I've made that mistake before and wasted a bunch of time troubleshooting.
        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

        Comment


          #79
          Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3021.jpeg
Views:	394
Size:	65.6 KB
ID:	87522

          Sure enough, the pressure is below spec once it fully warms up. Should be sitting at 7-8psi. What does this mean? Bad oil pump? Arehman is having the same issue with his car and it didn't go away after a new oil pump was installed.
          2005 BMW ///M3 Alpine White/Imola Red 6MT

          Comment


            #80
            Does any pressure register on the gauge when the engine RPMs are increased?
            '05 M3 Convertible 6MT, CB/Cinnamon, CSL Airbox&Flap, PCSTuning, Beisan, Schrick 288/280, SS V1's & 2.5" System, RE Stg 1&SMF, KW V2, CB PS, Apex EC-7R

            Comment


              #81
              Originally posted by jbfrancis3 View Post
              Does any pressure register on the gauge when the engine RPMs are increased?
              Yes, the pressure moved up as RPM's increased. I took a video of the gauge moving up and down with the RPM's: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72pj...ature=youtu.be
              2005 BMW ///M3 Alpine White/Imola Red 6MT

              Comment


                #82
                I know this is a pain to deal with, but I would go back to the shop with this video.

                It's possible that this is all a huge coincidence and your pump decided to let go at exactly the same time that your rod bearings were replaced. Highly unlikely, but whatever, it's possible.

                The big issue I see is that the shop told you that they verified the oil pressure themselves and made sure everything was within spec. You've clearly just demonstrated that that's not true, so how do you know that everything else they said they did was done correctly? Did they actually inspect the pump and replace the o ring? Don't want to imply that the shop is incompetent, but in my mind the issue was clearly caused by the rod bearing work.

                As for technical advice, I wouldn't drive the car until this is taken care of. You've verified that the engine isn't circulating oil properly and this can ultimately lead to some pretty serious damage. I don't have first-hand experience with this, so I can only take some blind guesses as to what the issue is. Checking the pump, o-rings, pickup tubes, oil passageways, etc is what I would do next.
                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                Comment


                  #83
                  Originally posted by MTiz View Post

                  Yes, the pressure moved up as RPM's increased. I took a video of the gauge moving up and down with the RPM's: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72pj...ature=youtu.be
                  Very nice. Remarkable its so low that the gauge doesn't register any pressure. Next course of action, mechanically, is beyond my paygrade.
                  '05 M3 Convertible 6MT, CB/Cinnamon, CSL Airbox&Flap, PCSTuning, Beisan, Schrick 288/280, SS V1's & 2.5" System, RE Stg 1&SMF, KW V2, CB PS, Apex EC-7R

                  Comment


                    #84
                    "The big issue I see is that the shop told you that they verified the oil pressure themselves and made sure everything was within spec. You've clearly just demonstrated that that's not true, so how do you know that everything else they said they did was done correctly?"

                    +1. I bet the pump is fine but the mechanic messed up the connection when removed/installed the plumbing.

                    OP, at 2000 rpm and only 10 psi pressure is too low. There is a big leak on the plumbing somewhere in the oil pan and they lied to you on the pressure test. I hate to pay the pros and got this kind of result.

                    Comment


                      #85
                      OP, I dont know how much time you have but if you removed the airbox you should be able to do this yourself.

                      I did my own bearings and its more tedious than anything. Waaaaay easier than that stupid starter I changed a few months ago.

                      Get some CDI torque wrenches from Amazon if you don't have them and lower the pan and check the plumbing and everything in there.

                      I would not go back to that shop other than to show them that video and see what they say.

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Any updates, OP?

                        Current:

                        1997 BMW M3 - Boston Green/Modena
                        2003 BMW M3 · Coupe · 6MT - Alpine White/M-Texture Alcantara

                        Comment


                          #87
                          So one of my friends had the same problem after rod bearings.. They had said they changed out the oil filter housing thinking that was going to be the problem but I guess they swapped in a bad one because they swapped it again and that solved their problem. Another thing to check would be the Vanoss accumulator and line make sure there's no weird leak there and the Vanoss accumulator is working properly.

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Quick Update for nextelbuddy and BMWahba : Changed the oil filter housing last week with a brand new one from BMW and it actually got worse-- first cold start I had zero oil pressure. I don't believe I installed it wrong but unfortunately, my oil cooler line bolt is stripped so I can't just take it off again. Really discouraging, any ideas on how to get that out?

                            My old man and the shop owner got into a big argument like two weeks back and they agreed to do my oil pump and bearings (for the 3rd time) free of charge if we come in and do most of the work, which is fine by me. My Dad is a shrewd negotiator 😀. I had actually dropped my front subframe in my driveway and was about to open up the oil pan when I received this news-- had to put everything back together lol.

                            Ordered an Oil Pump from Pierburg which will be delivered tomorrow, and I'm going to order OEM Rod Bearings (they're still are trying to blame ACL bearings) next week. Car is currently in the driveway under a cover, immobile and will have to get towed to the shop. God bless the stimulus check.
                            2005 BMW ///M3 Alpine White/Imola Red 6MT

                            Comment


                              #89
                              Any update on this OP?

                              Comment


                                #90
                                Originally posted by 180SXTCY View Post
                                Any update on this OP?
                                No update since 3/17, been busy with work and vacation. I ordered OEM Bearings and a new Oil Pump. Tow Truck is coming tomorrow to take it back to the shop that did all of this-- I'll be using their lift to install everything and finish this once and for all.
                                2005 BMW ///M3 Alpine White/Imola Red 6MT

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X