Immaculate low mileage 2004 Silver Grey CSL Inspired Build

[Avedis]

Fridays have become my day to go and check on the progress of the paintwork. Now that all the big Monterey Car Week jobs are done, Dave was able to have his team make progress on my M3. Not a bad list to be on!


Prior to getting there, my M3 was already in the paint booth. The booth was already closed and pressurized, so I couldn't really get inside to snap photos of all the prep work they did. Even so, I could see that the paint was sanded down, and all the holes and sensitive areas were meticulously masked off.


That said, Dave knew that I wanted photos for this build thread, and he snapped some photos before I arrived.





I am not an expert on paintwork, and I had a lot of basic and probably annoying questions about the process. Dave handled my barrage of questions with grace and gave me a tour of the paint mixing room. I mentioned in a previous post that Dave did 10 color/texture samples for my car, each utilizing different paint manufacturers, spray guns, and adjustments. I was surprised to find that they got the best match with PPG paint. Dave went over all the paint brands he stocks (Sikken, PPG, and Glasurit), and their different applications. The conversation was far beyond my knowledge level but I appreciated the time and explanation. Fun note, the binders on top of the paint cabinets contain every car that they have painted in this paintbooth. They are able to pull every detail, the brand, mixing formula, spray gun, nozzle, pressure settings, etc should they need to work on that same car in the future.


All of my parts were either in the process, or in the queue. By the end of next week, everything should be painted, and finish work can begin. Hopefully the next update will be in a few weeks when I am trailering the car M3 back to my garage.

You have a link to the hardware on that magnetic plate setup you rigged together? I like that a lot

Definitely, you can get them HERE. Pair those with a thin sheet of galvanized steel ($0.98 from Lowes) and you should be good to go. If you want to do it a more legit, complex and overpriced way, you can always try the Carbonex kit HERE

Avedis is that the stock shift boot or did you change that out as well? I'm assuming that's a OEM ZHP weighted shift knob also? I'm asking because I might be doing a manual swap soon and want to keep a leather interior so I don't want the ZHP alcantara shift boot + weighted knob combo that only seems to be available. I have read the OEM broomstick leather shift boot doesn't fit the ZHP knob due to the shortened height of the ZHP knob.

The shift knob is one of the few modifications the car came with when I purchased it. I'm going to be totally honest, I'm not sure. It looks/feels like an OEM ZHP weighted knob, on a factory shift boot thats been cut, inverted, then ziptied on from the underside. Nothing about it looks or feels aftermarket. Maybe it’s taken from another BMW model. I haven't read that specific combo wouldn't work. I'm sure someone here has done it and can answer that question with certainty.

[Kipjames3]

Avedis thank you. I've been reading people doing that so maybe I'll have to end up going that route. Are you thinking about going alcantara wheel and shift boot at any point?

[Slideways]

In regards to the shift knob and boot, it is a ZHP shift knob paired with the imitation leather (or real leather, NLA) shift boot found on the standard E46. If it were a cut factory M3 shift boot, it would have four stitch lines and it would be smooth nappa leather rather than the textured imitation leather. There are also aftermarket leather shift boot options that usually have that course grain leather.

Edit: BMW might have discontinued the real leather E46 shift boot and only offer the vinyl and alcantara ones now.

[Kipjames3]

In regards to the shift knob and boot, it is a ZHP shift knob paired with the imitation leather shift boot found on the standard E46. If it were a cut factory M3 shift boot, it would have four stitch lines and it would be smooth nappa leather rather than the textured imitation leather. There are also aftermarket leather shift boot options that usually have that course grain leather.

Appreciate the information. I'm just looking for an leather OEM style boot that fits the shorter ZHP knob. Exactly like the alcantara one but leather.

[Slideways]

Appreciate the information. I'm just looking for an leather OEM style boot that fits the shorter ZHP knob. Exactly like the alcantara one but leather.

BMW does not make one for the E46, unfortunately. Only options from BMW are the imitation leather and alcantara.

Now, you can get the one piece F10 M5 or F80 M3 shift knob and boot (ZHP style knob plus real leather boot, both have the illuminated shift pattern as well) and transfer an E46 shift boot frame (glue) to either of them to make a ZHP and real leather shift boot combo. DIY here - https://chrisparente.com/2017/05/30/...b-replacement/

[M3fanatic580]

Love your build so far. Following your progress.

[Avedis]

The painting process took a lot longer than expected, but I’m really impressed with the results.

After Monterey Car Week, Dave was able to get my car painted. If you recall, he sprayed about 10 color samples a while ago, two of which looked incredibly close. He picked the best color match and sprayed the quarter panel before painting all the accessories. Dave wanted to make sure he was happy with the color match before painting the bumpers and trim pieces.

About a week later Dave called me and informed me the color match was not to his standard. Despite us both agreeing on the color samples being an excellent match, the color did not quite translate to a larger scale for some reason. I have so much respect for his professionalism and perfectionism. I can almost guarantee you that any other shop would have pushed the job through. Dave special ordered some large scale panel spray outs so he could test the color match at a larger scale. They mixed up a few more batches and settled on a new formula.

Another week later, Dave called me and this time was much happier with the results. He invited me to come to the shop to see the color in person, and asked for my final approval. What I appreciate about Dave is his willingness to allow the customer to be a part of the process, ensuring that my concerns are heard, and that I am satisfied with the work being done.

When I arrived, the car was parked outside, and I got my first look at the paintwork. This was straight out of the paint booth. The color match was so good, and the orange peel texture was identical to factory. The most impressive part of it all? Zero body shop dust on the car, not a single spec. No over spray, no surprises, just great work.


Although I always knew paintwork was difficult, I’ve gained an even deeper appreciation for this skill. There are so many variables that go into a good paint match including the manufacturer itself, mixing the colors, the amount of metallic, pressure settings and arm speed for orange peel, blending vs butt matching, etc. Doing it at a high level is kind of an art form.

Couple days later, the rest of the parts had been painted, and the car was ready to pick up. I got my first look at the finished result, which was stunning. My goal for the paintwork was to go from the previously repainted quarter panel’s 90-95% color match to 95-98% color match (depending on the angle). I’d say we absolutely accomplished that goal. The only way the paint match could have been any closer would be to blend in the adjoining panels, which I was not willing to do.


I cautiously loaded the car up onto my neighbor’s trailer, then followed anxiously as we caravanned back home.




It felt so good to have the car safe, undamaged, and back in my garage.




Lights out for the night, let the rebuild begin in the morning!

[bavarian3]

Let's go ! The results are going to be epic.

[Flow]

Very nice !
I just hope that the immaculate condition won't keep you from driving the car
Can't wait to see the next updates

[AWE46M3]

Let’s go!! 🫡

[Avedis]

I had typed out an entire order of operations for the exterior rebuild so that I could stay on track and organized. Having a plan was nice, but when my son realized that “his” M3 was back in the garage, he couldn’t wait to work on it.

We went out to the garage and took on all the easy tasks. The order that we were doing things made absolutely no sense, but it really wasn’t about being efficient. I know these are memories are something I’ll hold onto forever, and I was happy to just be present, productive, and bonding with my son. It’s been really fun to see his understanding and passion for cars grow as he has gotten older.






After he got sick of working on the car, I stayed on the passenger side of the car and kept reassembling. All new hardware went into the body and onto the side skirt, then side skirt was reattached.




New lower window trim went down, then I reinstalled the shadow line trim, window gasket, window, b-pillar, and reattached the seatbelt.








I then detoured and took full advantage of having my neighbor home for the day. I used his extra set of hands to install the hood and passenger side fender.



I went back to the passenger side and installed the rubber door sill, plastic lower kick plate, rear door panel, rear bench and front door panel. Really good progress for a single day, i'll keep this thread updated as I continue the exterior rebuild.

[Avedis]

Picking up where I left off, the passenger side of the car. The fuel door went back in, and it was kind of a pain in the butt. I should have paid more attention when doing the disassembly, because I struggled through the reassembly of the fuel door area more than I should have. There a lot of accessory parts and little tricks to get everything back together just right. It doesn’t help that the hand space to work is really tight. You can tell I’m paranoid about damaging anything during this rebuild.








While working on the fuel door, I couldn’t help but notice and appreciate just how accurate the orange peel on the new paint was vs the factory texture.



In order to compete the passenger side fender, I needed to ceramic coat/install new side grills and side marker lights. First the side grills.




Next, the side marker lights. After the ceramic coating, I installed some stealth bulbs, then reinstalled the side marker lights into the fender. I should note that both the driver side and passenger side got the same parts/treatment, I just didn’t take photos of the other side.






I moved onto the last missing interior piece, the a-pillar. The pillar had the common issue where the bottom 1/2 inch of fabric delaminates and bunches up. Fortunately, the fix was really simple. Fold the fabric back, mask the pillar, apply adhesive, tac dry, then affix the fabric.







After the fix, the a-pillar was reinstalled. Not much to document on this one, the install is pretty straight forward. That’s all for today. I’ll chip away during my work week and report back in a week or so.

[Avedis]

Progress throughout my workweek was slow. Today was my first day off this week and I used the free time to attack the trunk.

First I polished the taillights, which came out incredibly good. The depth and clarity were off the charts, and that was before I ceramic coated them. Prior to going on the car they received a single layer of ceramic coating, then new inner trim pieces were installed.






On the bottom of the taillights there are two small pegs which stick down and rest on the rear quarter panel area. From the factory, there are two small protective pieces similar to PPF that protect the paint from these small pegs. I had every intention of purchasing genuine BMW versions and reinstalling them after paint. Once I saw the price ($32 each) for a 40mm long piece of protective film, I bailed on my initial plan. Instead, I bought a bulk piece of 3M PPF and cut my own. Before the taillights went on, I installed the protective strips and new rubber buffers on the rear quarter panel.

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I ran the wiring loom back into the trunk prior to the inner taillights being installed. This way I had maximum hand space to work while installing the trunk lock mechanism. I taped the loom to a wire hanger, the pushed the loom up the channel and back into the trunk.


The lock gasket was installed, then the lock mechanism itself. I never noticed that the CSL didn’t have the emergency trunk release (from the inside of the trunk). I initially installed it onto the lock mechanism, but ended up deleting it after I realized it had nowhere to run to.




Next up was the locking latch, then the inner taillights. Prior to being installed, the inner taillights also were polished and ceramic coated.






I then installed new rubber hinge caps, rubber stop buffers and fresh genuine BMW shocks.





Next up, the license plate lights. When I purchased the CSL trunk, it came pre-wired for LED license plate lights. That said, the wiring was done poorly. I took the whole wiring harness apart and rewired/insulated it properly. Then the wiring harness went into the trunk, and staged for the lights themselves.




Once it was wired, I installed the roundel grommets and license plate grommets. The license plate lights needed a little work to fit. The opening on hook that clips into the trunk is slightly too narrow and protrudes slightly too far to clip into the trunk. I peeled back the foam gasket and filed the hook portion (not pictured). Afterward, they fit snugly into the opening.




A few more exterior parts such as the BMW roundel and magnetic license plate mounts were installed. License plate lights were tested as well.




The final piece of this project was the CSL specific inner trunk liner. I waited until everything was installed and tested for functionality. I attempted to install it but the fitment out of the box was seriously bad. The section closest to the rear bumper (with the trunk in the closed position) was far too wide. It was so wide that it prevented the liner from sitting flush with the trunk, meaning the expanding rivets that hold the two together would not go in. The fix was to cut about 1/4inch off of the bottom section so that it would sit flush. After I got it to sit flush, I could see that nearly every hole for the expanding rivet was either too small, or slightly off. You can see in the photo that there was one hole that wasn’t even drilled out during manufacturing! I used a drill bit to bore the holes out as necessary.




Nothing about this project was really difficult, just a lot of components. Once I started building it out, everything fell into place pretty intuitively. The trunk alignment still needs a few more micro adjustments, but the fit is 90% there.