To remove the right output drive flange, I would have to remove this nut first right (axel/cv joint nut)?
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Is my diff completely done?
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No. you only need to unbolt the 6 bolts holding the inner CV carrier to the drive flange. It will be tight getting the axle to drop given that flange is already pulled out some, but the axle should drop out of the way. Then the flange should just pull completely out.Originally posted by Mattn1192 View PostTo remove the right output drive flange, I would have to remove this nut first right (axel/cv joint nut)?Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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I don't condone all the technique used in this video, but it's really helpful for understanding what these diffs look like during disassembly:
Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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hahah! yeah and you need a puller to separate the axle from the bearing that sits behind that castle nut.Originally posted by Mattn1192 View PostNo wonder…. cuz that mf is tough to come out LOL..Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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This is the wheel hub to axle shaft nut which could be like 150 to 200 ft-lbs torque!!!Originally posted by Mattn1192 View PostTo remove the right output drive flange, I would have to remove this nut first right (axel/cv joint nut)?
As Casa said, just remove the CV joint off the flange, and pull the CV aside and hang it using string. Don't let the heavy CV shaft hanging by itself as this could cause damage to the other CV next to the wheel. If you still cannot pull the CV off aside, then you need to push the flange back in to give more space.
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I believe you are correct. Because this baby ain’t going nowhere. Just wiggling. Gotta push the flange in deeper to create space. A lift sure would be nice lolOriginally posted by sapote View Post
This is the wheel hub to axle shaft nut which could be like 150 to 200 ft-lbs torque!!!
As Casa said, just remove the CV joint off the flange, and pull the CV aside and hang it using string. Don't let the heavy CV shaft hanging by itself as this could cause damage to the other CV next to the wheel. If you still cannot pull the CV off aside, then you need to push the flange back in to give more space.
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Managed to pry it inward after a long time of hitting it with a mallet. Will likely be waking up sore tomorrow. Next task is the sway bar. There is not enough space above the axel to slide out the output flange. And Sway bar preventing it from fully dropping.Last edited by Mattn1192; 11-03-2021, 03:21 PM.
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It doesn't look bad!! Hard to tell over YouTube of course, but doesn't look too bad. 100% I'd flush the fluid, and try to hunt around in there with a magnet.Originally posted by Mattn1192 View Post
Also, the lock ring is still in there and not broken. Which surprises the hell out of me. I'd order a new one along with that seal. Also, do you have any idea what cause it to pop out? Do you off-road rally the car, lol!
Also, I'm going to start a GoFundMe and see if we can't scrape up enough chedda' to get you some new gloves!!!!Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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LOL! I stopped changing them outOriginally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
It doesn't look bad!! Hard to tell over YouTube of course, but doesn't look too bad. 100% I'd flush the fluid, and try to hunt around in there with a magnet.
Also, the lock ring is still in there and not broken. Which surprises the hell out of me. I'd order a new one along with that seal. Also, do you have any idea what cause it to pop out? Do you off-road rally the car, lol!
Also, I'm going to start a GoFundMe and see if we can't scrape up enough chedda' to get you some new gloves!!!!
after the 3rd set. Left my snap-on ones at work.
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This is what I feared... How's the splined in the diff look?
I can't remember if those drive flanges are $$$ or not too bad.Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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just saw this, missed it in my previous post. Hard to tell with that pic if you have damage or not.Originally posted by Mattn1192 View PostStill pictureBuild thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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