Best pics I can get. metal shavings between splines is present.
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Is my diff completely done?
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Man, I don't know what your budget is, but I'd be looking for a full rebuild or a swap if it were me. Thats not a ton of metal in the case from the drive flange, but it's really hard to tell if those splines are damaged on the inside as well. I don't have enough experience with these diffs (or really any diffs in a situation like this) to make a solid recommendation for you, I'm hoping others on the forum may have some thoughts.
You might be able to get by with a new drive flange and a really good flush of the fluid, but I just don't know if you've significantly compromised the longevity of the other parts inside that pumpkin. It would suck to throw some parts at it, button everything back up, and then a few thousand or few hundred miles down the road end up having to pull everything back out again...Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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I feel you on that. It’s not a daily so I’ll sit on it and make a decision soon enough. I was thinking about taking the back cover off to see how the inside looks after I dump the fluid inside. Would prob give me a better idea as to how things are looking in there.Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View PostMan, I don't know what your budget is, but I'd be looking for a full rebuild or a swap if it were me. Thats not a ton of metal in the case from the drive flange, but it's really hard to tell if those splines are damaged on the inside as well. I don't have enough experience with these diffs (or really any diffs in a situation like this) to make a solid recommendation for you, I'm hoping others on the forum may have some thoughts.
You might be able to get by with a new drive flange and a really good flush of the fluid, but I just don't know if you've significantly compromised the longevity of the other parts inside that pumpkin. It would suck to throw some parts at it, button everything back up, and then a few thousand or few hundred miles down the road end up having to pull everything back out again...
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From the pic it seem the ground off splines is more than 1mm that I said in previous post -- you must have spin the right wheel on ice for too longOriginally posted by Mattn1192 View PostBetter pic
There is still plenty of splines on the shaft for a proper torque transfer. Can you tell by looking at the wear mark of how deep the splines mating, then compare to see how much it had ground down. Small percent ground section is not a big issue.
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And that blurred out workspace surrounding that cleaned up flange looks like I could be happy there for a long, long time!Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post
I'm curious about what you used to clean it up without marring it? Looks great
!
-TedBuild thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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2.78mm (0.11 in) of damage on shaft to be exact.Originally posted by sapote View PostFrom the pic it seem the ground off splines is more than 1mm that I said in previous post -- you must have spin the right wheel on ice for too long
There is still plenty of splines on the shaft for a proper torque transfer. Can you tell by looking at the wear mark of how deep the splines mating, then compare to see how much it had ground down. Small percent ground section is not a big issue.
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The pic in your post shows there is plenty of splines remain for a normal car operation. The groove is for the locking ring to snap on for detent, and the highlighted area is for the oil seal. There is no bearing riding on the flange. Clean all metal bits and you are good to go.Originally posted by Mattn1192 View PostQuestion regarding shaft. Marked red, does a lock ring go there? Marked blue, does a seal go there or a bearing?
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