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    Originally posted by Kcalhoun27 View Post

    I did them same for my stock clamps. They work well and are easy when you dont have the proper tool for the stock units.
    I have the proper tool for the stock ones, lol, but the tabs still break before the clamp comes off, so I got tired of them, even with FCP replacements.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    Youtube DIYs and more

    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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      Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
      I have the proper tool for the stock ones, lol, but the tabs still break before the clamp comes off, so I got tired of them, even with FCP replacements.

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
      Lol, i meant i dont so i did the next best thing 馃憤馃徑

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        +1

        Hose clamps (I have shiny ones to match fuel/air rails) are perfectly fine and can provide a nice, wide clamp, esp on the CF to help spread load on fragile material. You would have to not pay attention to put them on in a way that will get hit by trtl linkage.
        DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 DCT Slicktop Instagram
        /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 Coupe 6spd Slicktop zero options
        More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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          Order has finally shipped, should be arriving tomorrow. Will be installed, tuned and put on a dyno within the next week hopefully b

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            Any idea if it鈥檒l go on sale again?

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              Box will be here tomorrow. Car is disassembled and ready for installation. Tuning to be done by HTE this Friday as well. Current set up will be ARH 6-1 headers, OE section 2 (want to get dual resonated 2.5 SS to replace), meisterschaft titanium section 3, and TMS csl airbox. Car will be dynoed with SAE correction. Will post a thread once results are in.

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                I got mine in today and couldn't help taking a photo of it. However... I won't be putting it on anytime soon. I want to do vanos, timing, headers (rusty), and maybe a new exhaust(something broke in it and its kinda rattling around) before I throw this bad boy in and tune it...

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                  Overall any reports of issues with the V2 airbox?

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                    Originally posted by Tonggi View Post
                    Overall any reports of issues with the V2 airbox?
                    I had the underside tab/nubs fall out and had to get a replacement box. So far so good on the replacement after about 4 weeks.

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                      Originally posted by Thonas View Post
                      I had the underside tab/nubs fall out and had to get a replacement box. So far so good on the replacement after about 4 weeks.
                      Originally posted by Thonas View Post
                      Two week update. Pins are still attached to the box but I am experiencing a bit of cracking around the rear pin hole which is drilled very close to the edge.That leads me to ask all of the engineers on the forum to come up with a better way to attach the bottom.
                      What about the design鈥檚 cracking you were experiencing?
                      6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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                        Originally posted by oldFanatic View Post


                        What about the design鈥檚 cracking you were experiencing?
                        Would also like to know. good catch. Im about to pull trigger. I want the performance and sound. I also want it to last. I'm not a CF weave whore or show car quality whore. Just want it installed and doing 99% of what others do as long as it doesnt break on me (hopefully so!)

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                          Originally posted by oldFanatic View Post


                          What about the design鈥檚 cracking you were experiencing?
                          No change there. Could have been the clear coat around the holes.

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                            Originally posted by Thonas View Post

                            No change there. Could have been the clear coat around the holes.
                            After installing mine I see what you mean about the pins. It鈥檚 honestly a really shitty way of mounting the bottom of the trumpet part of the box. My rear tab already sheered off, but the box still sits firmly in place without much movement.

                            For anyone at Turner, why not just make the bottom side attach like the top with the four screws? Would be a lot easier to manage and less risk of easily breakable/wearable parts.

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                              Originally posted by LSBNick View Post

                              After installing mine I see what you mean about the pins. It鈥檚 honestly a really shitty way of mounting the bottom of the trumpet part of the box. My rear tab already sheered off, but the box still sits firmly in place without much movement.

                              For anyone at Turner, why not just make the bottom side attach like the top with the four screws? Would be a lot easier to manage and less risk of easily breakable/wearable parts.
                              Agreed, there has to be a better way.

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                                Originally posted by Thonas View Post

                                Agreed, there has to be a better way.
                                replace the little pins with tiny neodymium magnets?

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