OEM CSL Trunk Availability?

[ejendow]

I previously measured the gaps when I did my trunk. The factory gap between rear windscreen and trunk is approx 3.8mm-4mm. If it's smaller than that, use a 13mm to loosen the rear bolt on the hinge (closest to rear windscreen) then tilt just the rear portion of the hinge upwards to add a little more space.

In regards to pushing it out more, I haven't tried this, but you may be able to loosen all 13mm bolts slide the whole assembly towards the rear of the car a little.

Another method I used was to back all of the mounting screws off just 5%. This way when it was left alone, it was really stable, but if I pushed / pulled / bumped, the trunk hard enough, it would slightly move. After I got it where I wanted I would tighten everything down and check. Repeat as necessary.

I'll give that a shot! Thank you sir.

[Epsilon]

I made the mistake of using a gap stick to install the OEM CSL trunk over a year ago. I still make random micro adjustments to achieve that perfect fit and it's driving me crazy.

[bavarian3]

I made the mistake of using a gap stick to install the OEM CSL trunk over a year ago. I still make random micro adjustments to achieve that perfect fit and it's driving me crazy.

LOL exactly why I avoided this. I installed mine, made a few adjustments to get it close and sent it. Genuine trunks fit fantastic.

[ejendow]

I previously measured the gaps when I did my trunk. The factory gap between rear windscreen and trunk is approx 3.8mm-4mm. If it's smaller than that, use a 13mm to loosen the rear bolt on the hinge (closest to rear windscreen) then tilt just the rear portion of the hinge upwards to add a little more space.

In regards to pushing it out more, I haven't tried this, but you may be able to loosen all 13mm bolts slide the whole assembly towards the rear of the car a little.

Another method I used was to back all of the mounting screws off just 5%. This way when it was left alone, it was really stable, but if I pushed / pulled / bumped, the trunk hard enough, it would slightly move. After I got it where I wanted I would tighten everything down and check. Repeat as necessary.

Following up on this. I messed with the 12mm bolts on the hinge to get the gap where I was happy with it. Definitely a lot of trial and error though so I'll need to mess with it some more over time to get it perfect.

Thanks again!

[Avedis]

Following up on this. I messed with the 12mm bolts on the hinge to get the gap where I was happy with it. Definitely a lot of trial and error though so I'll need to mess with it some more over time to get it perfect.

Thanks again!

Thanks for the follow up. When my car comes back from the body shop I’m going to go into a lot of detail documenting the fitment in my build thread. I’ve done hours of fitting and compared it to tons of sample photos from real CSLs. What I concluded is that when it comes to fitting factory CSL trunks, even though they are by far the best fitting, it’s still all about compromise.

If you try to match the upper arch of the ducktail to the rear quarters, the line of the taillights will be off (inner tails sit too high)

If you try to match the line of the taillights, the upper arch will sit too low compared to the rear quarters.

On top of that, you will need to compromise a little on how far inward or outward it sits. The concave shape of the upper part (think where the M3 badge sits) is far more curved than the concave of the rear quarters. If you look at it from the side, the trunk looks like this ) while the quarter is far more upright, like this, \. What this means is that no matter where you sit it, it will always be slightly off (unless you flatten the bottoms like I am doing.

I should note that my only hands on experience is my car, so it’s a sample of one. That said, all the photos I’ve seen seem to corroborate this. Go browse on collecting cars, they have a lot of really high res photos and the sample is huge. You’ll see that literally every one is fit slightly different.