Porsche Brembo 996 BBK conversion

[r4dr]

The ZCP rotors are 345x28mm, drilled, and floating. The stock rotors are 325x28mm, solid, and non floating. The ZCP rotors have more heat capacity, expel heat faster, and deal with heat better than stock. Not as much better as a good BBK rotor, but absolutely better than stock.

It's a little under 10% in increased thermal mass, from my napkin math. Nothing amazing, but every bit counts I guess. The co-cast construction is more "somewhat floating" based on what we've seen from similar designs.

I wish I could find ZCP rotors with solid faces.

[repoman89]

Just did my first pad change with these to my DS1.11 track pads in 15 minutes * chef's kiss *

No screwing around with clamps or anything, just use the old pads and some elbow grease to push the pistons back in. My Girodisc dust boots on the pistons are holding up perfectly so far too. Only about 15 sessions on them and some street driving (enough to eat through the stock Textars) but good to see they weren't unexpectedly shredded or anything.

[DoubleSidedTape]

What wheels fit with no spacer in the front? I remember my stock 18 rears fitting, but I need a 10-12mm spacer with my arc-8 17x9.5 +35.

Ive heard that some apex wheels in 18x9.5 +35 will fit but not clear on arc8 vs ec7 and regular vs forged versions of those.

Any others?

[repoman89]

I test fit my new TA16s yesterday and they have a ton of clearance. 18x9.5 ET35.

[DoubleSidedTape]

From Apex: https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...ance-e46m3.png

They indicate that an 18x9.5 +35 Arc 8 needs a 5mm spacer, but an EC7 will fit without one.

[Mr.wReckless]

For what it's worth, I had my local garage blow out the pistons, I cleaned them up and put them in the freezer. The calipers went in the oven, and with some piston grease the cold pistons were super easy to slide into the warm caliper cylinders. New o-rings and dust boots of course.

Regards

[Nardo S54]

Apologies as I’ve not read all 36 pages but for the members who’ve been dealing with squealing, have you confirmed the rears were not installed backwards? Given the orientation on BMW’s (rear of rotor instead of front like Porsche), the calipers need to be switched between driver and passenger, and of course then bridge pipe must be installed on the opposite end. This was well documented in the original thread on the other site but only offer it up in case it got lost.

And if the rear orientation is not the issue, well perhaps this is par for the course lol

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=203&v=fUNHb9O52WQ&feature=emb_logo

[Mr.wReckless]

Ferodo DS2500 pads both front and rear, swapped over the rear callipers, got FreakyParts 360mm size up front and zero squeal. I did apply liberal amount of a type of ceramic paste to the pads to hopefully alleviate this, which seems to have worked. What I do get though is 1 single clunk from the pads as they move in the calliper when I have gone from braking in reverse to the first brake application once I move forward again and vice versa.

Regards

[heinzboehmer]

Any opinions/experiences on powder coating vs refinishing with the VHT 900F paint and clear for a car that will see track use? I'm not great at painting (and kinda hate doing it), so I'd rather pay for the powder coating than have to refinish the calipers in a couple years, BUT only if it's going to last longer.

Saw a similar discussion a couple pages back, but no mention of how the finishes wore/faded after years of tracking.

[duracellttu]

Any opinions/experiences on powder coating vs refinishing with the VHT 900F paint and clear for a car that will see track use? I'm not great at painting (and kinda hate doing it), so I'd rather pay for the powder coating than have to refinish the calipers in a couple years, BUT only if it's going to last longer.

Saw a similar discussion a couple pages back, but no mention of how the finishes wore/faded after years of tracking.

I powder coated. The finish is really nice and more durable. The only precaution I will give you is that you need to prep the parts accordingly. Mask the areas around the piston, mask the pad rails and keep bolts in all the valve/threaded locations. If you do that properly you won’t have any issues.

It was was worth the extra money in my option. I also ceramic coated them afterwards and they clean up so easily.

[heinzboehmer]

I powder coated. The finish is really nice and more durable. The only precaution I will give you is that you need to prep the parts accordingly. Mask the areas around the piston, mask the pad rails and keep bolts in all the valve/threaded locations. If you do that properly you won’t have any issues.

It was was worth the extra money in my option. I also ceramic coated them afterwards and they clean up so easily.

Cool, thanks for the info. What did you use to cover the threaded holes? Guess I could use old/cheap bleed screws for the bleed holes, but what about the one where the brake line goes? I have a feeling that if they're not all sealed properly, brake fluid will inevitably leak out and ruin the finish.

[Tbonem3]

The brake line input hole is the same thread size/pitch as the bleeders. See my OP for how I cover holes.

[duracellttu]

Cool, thanks for the info. What did you use to cover the threaded holes? Guess I could use old/cheap bleed screws for the bleed holes, but what about the one where the brake line goes? I have a feeling that if they're not all sealed properly, brake fluid will inevitably leak out and ruin the finish.

I completely rebuilt the calipers and bought all new Brembo hardware, just used the old hardware. For the brake line I went to Home Depot and found some cheap bolts with the same thread pitch.

[heinzboehmer]

The brake line input hole is the same thread size/pitch as the bleeders. See my OP for how I cover holes.

Oh I didn't realize that. Should have looked at the calipers more closely. Thanks!

[Tbonem3]

Oh I didn't realize that. Should have looked at the calipers more closely. Thanks!

No problem. I would recommend finding cheap bleeders or old ones, but not so much for painting stage, but the baking. The increase in heat will increase pressure and, even if you've drained the calipers, still some fluid will want to come out.

The problem with using any old hardware that matches the thread size/pitch of the bleeders is that the threads alone will not stop fluid, it's the tapered "nose" of the bleeder that blocks the fluid port.