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Review: Cobra Nogaro seats (uniquely street friendly fixed back bucket seat)

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    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    I ordered some E30 switchs, going to try the power sliders to see if fitment is any better..what a bummer.
    My driver side is on power slider and I had to also crowbar it to get the rear bolts into the floor...

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    Youtube DIYs and more

    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

    Comment


      Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post



      My driver side is on power slider and I had to also crowbar it to get the rear bolts into the floor...

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
      How far were your rear seat rails holes off? On mine if one side is lined up the other is off the entire width of the hole in the floor.

      My theory is that the inboard bracket (at least mine) sit up at an angle, once installed to seat this pushes the rails out at an angle causing the fitment issue, interesting the front is fine and the back isn't.

      I'm about to take those fucking brackets, vise them up and bend them so they don't kick out so much.

      Sure wish I had metal fab equipment/skills right about now.
      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
      Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
      Instagram

      Comment


        My technique for reinstalling the seats is to loosen the outside two bracket to seat bolts enough so that the rails can line up easily. Then torque them to the floor and retighten the seat bolts after.

        I’ve had my brackets for a few years now so it’s not a recent thing, quality has been shit for a while. Every BK part I’ve bought (three now) has either required a grinder or a machinist. Wish there was any competition at all.

        Comment


          Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

          How far were your rear seat rails holes off? On mine if one side is lined up the other is off the entire width of the hole in the floor.

          My theory is that the inboard bracket (at least mine) sit up at an angle, once installed to seat this pushes the rails out at an angle causing the fitment issue, interesting the front is fine and the back isn't.

          I'm about to take those fucking brackets, vise them up and bend them so they don't kick out so much.

          Sure wish I had metal fab equipment/skills right about now.
          Which side of the bracket did you place the black spacer washers (the ones that go on the stud with the 10mm nut) on? My seat rails were pretty far off from the bolt holes, then I swapped the washers over to the other side and now they're only slightly far off. Still had to pry a bit to get the bolts in, but I was able to just use my fingers for that.

          Also, like repoman89, I had to install the rails with everything loose and then tighten all bolts/nuts without removing the rails from the car.
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

          Comment


            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

            Which side of the bracket did you place the black spacer washers (the ones that go on the stud with the 10mm nut) on? My seat rails were pretty far off from the bolt holes, then I swapped the washers over to the other side and now they're only slightly far off. Still had to pry a bit to get the bolts in, but I was able to just use my fingers for that.

            Also, like repoman89, I had to install the rails with everything loose and then tighten all bolts/nuts without removing the rails from the car.
            I have the spacers on outside which makes the fitment closer, but still terrible. Not only is my inboard bracket sticking up at an ~15° but it doesn't sit parallel to the rail causing the rails to taper toward the front. Not happy at all with this stuff especially for the price.
            I will say the GT3 install went fine, but this is something else entirely.
            Last edited by Cubieman; 01-18-2023, 10:28 AM.
            2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
            Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
            Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

            OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
            RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

            2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
            Instagram

            Comment




              Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

              I have the spacers on outside which makes the fitment closer, but still terrible. Not only is my inboard bracket sticking up at an ~15° but it doesn't sit parallel to the rail causing the rails to taper toward the front. Not happy at all with this stuff especially for the price.
              I will say the GT3 install went fine, but this is something else entirely.
              That's insane how far yours is off. Adding another data point, mine are just like Heinz - use fingers to pry and then start the bolt. If I have to take the seat out I'll try to "relax" the joints by sliding the seat forward/back with things loose as mentioned and see if that gets it to line up fully

              Comment


                Originally posted by timmo View Post



                That's insane how far yours is off. Adding another data point, mine are just like Heinz - use fingers to pry and then start the bolt. If I have to take the seat out I'll try to "relax" the joints by sliding the seat forward/back with things loose as mentioned and see if that gets it to line up fully
                I ended up sloting the holes as far as I could without interfering with the hardware and the rails still taper but only about half as much now, so I suppose that'll have to do.
                2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                Instagram

                Comment




                  Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

                  How far were your rear seat rails holes off? On mine if one side is lined up the other is off the entire width of the hole in the floor.
                  It's a few mm, but it's enough to require a crowbar to hold it in a position that brings the rail away from tranny tunnel to fit the bolt in. Just holding crowbar while starting the bolt is not enough, there is enough tension in the entire assembly that I can feel the threads scrubbing if I screw it in without holding the rail with a crowbar the entire time. Definitely not in a state where I am comfortable taking the seat out several times a month...I guess bolts are replaceable, at least I haven't converted rears to studs yet (and prob won't with this fitment).

                  Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                  Youtube DIYs and more

                  All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                  PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post



                    It's a few mm, but it's enough to require a crowbar to hold it in a position that brings the rail away from tranny tunnel to fit the bolt in. Just holding crowbar while starting the bolt is not enough, there is enough tension in the entire assembly that I can feel the threads scrubbing if I screw it in without holding the rail with a crowbar the entire time. Definitely not in a state where I am comfortable taking the seat out several times a month...I guess bolts are replaceable, at least I haven't converted rears to studs yet (and prob won't with this fitment).

                    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
                    Yeah, I hear that, I worry about the bolts going in sideways and damaging the female threads which would be a shitty state of affairs.

                    Finally got some seat heat action that works pretty well, a factory E39 M5 mat provides heat to the bottom and lower back. The great thing is the connector on the M5 seat heat will fit a stock E46 harness with one little tab shaved off.

                    Added a third pin to what was a 2 pin connector and stuffed the seat heats into the cushion, no upholstery work required for this which is awesome.

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                    Attached Files
                    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                    Instagram

                    Comment


                      Got mine installed today. I'll detail it out on my build thread at a later date, but wanted to share a couple of things:
                      • I wish I had gone the manual slider route. I'm regretting the power slider decision...
                      • The quality control on MTC switches leaves a lot to be desired. They are terrible.
                        • One had the arrow labels on the buttons pointing the wrong way (towards each other). It worked though.
                        • The second switch was shorting to ground. After spending 4 hours blowing fuses, rechecking wires, tracing things back with multimeter, I finally figured out that the brand new switch was bad.
                      • I had to clearance the holes on one of the seat mounts like others have. They were off by about 2-3 mm.
                      • I bought the fabric marker pens to dye the thread but haven't done it yet.
                      The end result is awesome. With the seat in the most tilted back position (lowest holes on the back, highest hole on the front), they are perfect and almost identical to how I drove the car with the stock seats. I sit pretty upright.

                      I haven't driven with the seats yet (34 degrees and raining today) but can't to give these a shakedown.

                      MTC Switch Home (reversed labels/arrows):
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                      MTC Switch Forum I opened it up after I figured out what was going on and you can see where it was shorting.
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                      Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
                        Got mine installed today. I'll detail it out on my build thread at a later date, but wanted to share a couple of things:
                        • I wish I had gone the manual slider route. I'm regretting the power slider decision...
                        • The quality control on MTC switches leaves a lot to be desired. They are terrible.
                          • One had the arrow labels on the buttons pointing the wrong way (towards each other). It worked though.
                          • The second switch was shorting to ground. After spending 4 hours blowing fuses, rechecking wires, tracing things back with multimeter, I finally figured out that the brand new switch was bad.
                        • I had to clearance the holes on one of the seat mounts like others have. They were off by about 2-3 mm.
                        • I bought the fabric marker pens to dye the thread but haven't done it yet.
                        The end result is awesome. With the seat in the most tilted back position (lowest holes on the back, highest hole on the front), they are perfect and almost identical to how I drove the car with the stock seats. I sit pretty upright.

                        I haven't driven with the seats yet (34 degrees and raining today) but can't to give these a shakedown.

                        MTC Switch Home (reversed labels/arrows):
                        Click image for larger version

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                        MTC Switch Forum I opened it up after I figured out what was going on and you can see where it was shorting.
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                        Very nice, did you have any issues as far as the brackets kicking the rails out at an angle causing the bolts/studs for the seat rails to not line up?

                        Brey Krause is sending me another set of brackets to try out as mine are so far off. I sent them a few measurements they requested and they were indeed quite off from the response I received.

                        On another somewhat unrelated note I like to reclined position of the seat but found that it sits me too low, in fact even in with the seat bolted to the top two holes I still sit down a bit too much for my liking, that is unfortunate as there really isn't a lot to do about that.

                        I may try shimming the rails up a bit, I'm 5'10", but I guess that's not enough, I love the seating postion of the Nogaros in the 996 GT3 but too low in the M3 for me.
                        2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                        Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                        Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                        OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                        RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                        2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                        Instagram

                        Comment


                          Lol at the switch!

                          iirc you could reverse the arrows on the switch when you have it opened up.

                          … I eventually ended up using manual sliders on both sides.

                          2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                          2012 LMB/Black 128i
                          2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

                          Comment


                            Hey Cubieman glad to hear BK is listening. That says a lot about them.

                            The rear floor bolts were cantered out a bit, but not horrible. I guess I'm used to generic side mount / seat mounts so I was expecting it to be worse, actually. I was ready for battle and didn't even get to break out a pocket knife.

                            I can't help but wonder if some of what BK is dealing with are the tolerances of another manufacturer (i.e., the Cobra seats). Your case seems a bit extreme though.

                            Also, I reread my last post. No clue what combo of words I chose ended up putting links to Nam3's home page, ha

                            Obioban - Yeah, I thought about opening up the "good switch" to reverse the arrows, but I think I'm gonna put it in the passenger seat so I can mess with anyone who sits there 😜 ...at least until I get manual sliders.
                            Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

                            Comment


                              Cubie - one other thing re: the seat height, have you driven the car? I like to be as low as possible and would go even lower if I could. I'm 6' even and don't see the height being an issue.

                              Drive it some, Heinz has similar observations as you and I believe he's come to appreciate the low height.

                              I don't need to tell you, but the M3 is a vastly different thing than your GT3. Even tho the seat is the same, it's definitely not an apples to apples comparison because the cars are so different. The M3 is a sedan masquerading as a sports car!
                              Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
                                Drive it some, Heinz has similar observations as you and I believe he's come to appreciate the low height.
                                Yep! Definitely liking the seating position a lot more now.

                                Cubieman if it's still too low, you can always stuff a towel or some foam in between the lower seat cushion and the seat.
                                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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