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    Originally posted by DJAM3 View Post

    Ended up being a not strong enough impact wrench. Bought a new one and they came right out.

    Next dumb question - Are Rogue transmission mounts stiff enough for a RTD shifter? I'd like to get rid of the NVH of 75D poly.
    Depends on your motor mounts, but based on personal experience running rogue trans mounts and 75D motor mounts, no, they are not stiff enough.

    Comment


      Wouldn't the motor mounts be more critical? My motor mounts are the solid rubber style and I haven't had any problems shifting. I'm thinking switching to a similar rubber mount for the tranny would be ok. Is this too optimistic?
      2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Anthracite Impuse - SOLD

      2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Black Nappa Leather
      Karbonius | Supersprint | Cat Cams | Beisan | Fikse Wheels | Mile End Composites | AST 5200 | Hotchkis | Brembo | Recaro | Rouge SMF | RTD | Yellow Tag Rack | HTE Performance

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        Too optimistic for a chassis mount shifter (in my opinion).

        Comment


          IMO, there is no reason to run any kind of solid/super stiff engine mount it just tears things up.

          Run new to newer engine mounts, RE trans mounts and it'll be fine. In that application the engine mounts become a wear item and get changed before they are "visually" bad.

          YMMV
          '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
          Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
          Email to [email protected]

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            Originally posted by George Hill View Post
            IMO, there is no reason to run any kind of solid/super stiff engine mount it just tears things up.

            Run new to newer engine mounts, RE trans mounts and it'll be fine. In that application the engine mounts become a wear item and get changed before they are "visually" bad.

            YMMV
            Hoping I don't hate running the BW engine mounts I just installed…


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

            Comment


              Originally posted by fattycharged View Post
              Hoping I don't hate running the BW engine mounts I just installed…
              Solid?

              I don't put solid on anything period, well maybe a drag only car, but not anything the gets driven. The only problem (IMO) with stock is they wear out sooner than most people would like.
              '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
              Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
              Email to [email protected]

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                Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                I imagine most OEMs and engine builders would not recommend reusing an MLS head gasket after it has been installed.

                In this thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuild...an_mls_gasket/), they are saying not to reuse it if it has heat cycled.

                Did you use factory head bolts or ARP studs? I'd be inclined to leave it as-is without the gasket maker if I used stock head bolts. There is a chance it won't leak.

                For ARP, I'd consider getting another gasket as you can reuse the ARP hardware.

                If you really, really don't want to do the job again, get a new headgasket and hardware (if not ARP).

                It is shame to toss the new gasket, but rockauto does have the factory elring gasket for ~$50.
                Wow I should have kept an eye out for rock auto in the future. That's a significant price jump from FCP's pricing.

                I appreciate the advice, I have ARP and ended up buying another head gasket. Then that one came damaged in shipping lol. I cannot win with this car at the moment.

                One thing I did notice is that the elring head gasket has its own piece of rubber gasket on the meeting point where it calls for gasket maker. So there is probably a chance that didn't leak.

                Comment


                  I went ahead and installed the Rogue tranny mounts. So far so good during street driving. We'll see how it does when I do a track day next month. The difference in NVH vs the 75D mounts is night and day. The combo of 75D mounts and a steel SMF was pretty extreme. The Rogue mounts makes it sound almost stock again.
                  2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Anthracite Impuse - SOLD

                  2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Black Nappa Leather
                  Karbonius | Supersprint | Cat Cams | Beisan | Fikse Wheels | Mile End Composites | AST 5200 | Hotchkis | Brembo | Recaro | Rouge SMF | RTD | Yellow Tag Rack | HTE Performance

                  Comment


                    I think I'm finally getting around to rod bearings next weekend... I'm doing it on jackstands in the driveway. Anyone have a recommendation for a good high precision digital angle torque wrench to do it? I've got the old style rod bolts. I assume I want something with a flex head?

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
                      I think I'm finally getting around to rod bearings next weekend... I'm doing it on jackstands in the driveway. Anyone have a recommendation for a good high precision digital angle torque wrench to do it? I've got the old style rod bolts. I assume I want something with a flex head?

                      Edit: I just read you have the old bolts, check out the specs for each wrench, maybe you could use the 3/8ths, that thing is handy as hell.

                      The 1/2" techangle is a great option, unfortunately the 3/8" would be MUCH more useful for about anything else. I have the 3/8" techangle and plan to buy the 1/2" this winter when I do my RB's.

                      It's interesting that the final torque ends up about 55ft lbs (if I remember correctly that is) but yet it feels much more than that when doing the final angle.

                      I've done 2 M3's RB jobs on a lift and definitely wanted the extra leverage the 1/2" provides.

                      You might also get away with a quality breaker bar/dial or digi angle gauge but I tend to overthink and go overboard.

                      Last edited by Cubieman; 07-28-2025, 04:45 PM.
                      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                      Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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                        Originally posted by Cubieman View Post


                        Edit: I just read you have the old bolts, check out the specs for each wrench, maybe you could use the 3/8ths, that thing is handy as hell.

                        The 1/2" techangle is a great option, unfortunately the 3/8" would be MUCH more useful for about anything else. I have the 3/8" techangle and plan to buy the 1/2" this winter when I do my RB's.

                        It's interesting that the final torque ends up about 55ft lbs (if I remember correctly that is) but yet it feels much more than that when doing the final angle.

                        I've done 2 M3's RB jobs on a lift and definitely wanted the extra leverage the 1/2" provides.

                        You might also get away with a quality breaker bar/dial or digi angle gauge but I tend to overthink and go overboard.
                        Oh shit I was literally just about to pull the trigger on a 3/8" techangle. Really glad I read this. If leverage is the issue, what specs would make the 3/8" acceptable? I'm confused why the two different bolts would change whether or not the 3/8" has enough leverage?

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by ATB88 View Post

                          Oh shit I was literally just about to pull the trigger on a 3/8" techangle. Really glad I read this. If leverage is the issue, what specs would make the 3/8" acceptable? I'm confused why the two different bolts would change whether or not the 3/8" has enough leverage?
                          I have only done the latter style bolts and forgot the specs on the other bolts. I swear I was puzzled, it felt like I was putting 100ft lbs worth of work into each bolt only to see the reading was ~50ft lbs. Must have something to do with the angle as I do wheel bolts all the time with a 3/8".

                          If you can get away with the 3/8" do it!
                          Getting the 1/2" will leave you with a less capable all around tool due to the size and the fact it won't go quite a low as the 3/8" will in regards to torque.

                          You might ask George Hill for his opinion.
                          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                          Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                          Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                          OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                          RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                          2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                          Instagram

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

                            I have only done the latter style bolts and forgot the specs on the other bolts. I swear I was puzzled, it felt like I was putting 100ft lbs worth of work into each bolt only to see the reading was ~50ft lbs. Must have something to do with the angle as I do wheel bolts all the time with a 3/8".

                            If you can get away with the 3/8" do it!
                            Getting the 1/2" will leave you with a less capable all around tool due to the size and the fact it won't go quite a low as the 3/8" will in regards to torque.

                            You might ask George Hill for his opinion.
                            Yeah I mean I guess I just don't understand if there's a way for me to know if I can "get away" with the 3/8" until I'm in there doing it, right? I think I'm kind of confused by what you were saying -- the two bolts only differ in that one's M11 and the other's M10 -- I don't know much about this stuff but is there a reason one bolt would be significantly easier/harder to torque than the other? I would have assumed they'd be about the same.

                            I absolutely agree that the 3/8" techangle is a *way* more useful tool to have around than the 1/2", but unless someone can tell me that it's obviously not hard to properly do the rod bearing torque sequence (on my back) with the 3/8" techangle, then I think I have to go 1/2" to cover my ass :/

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by ATB88 View Post

                              Yeah I mean I guess I just don't understand if there's a way for me to know if I can "get away" with the 3/8" until I'm in there doing it, right? I think I'm kind of confused by what you were saying -- the two bolts only differ in that one's M11 and the other's M10 -- I don't know much about this stuff but is there a reason one bolt would be significantly easier/harder to torque than the other? I would have assumed they'd be about the same.

                              I absolutely agree that the 3/8" techangle is a *way* more useful tool to have around than the 1/2", but unless someone can tell me that it's obviously not hard to properly do the rod bearing torque sequence (on my back) with the 3/8" techangle, then I think I have to go 1/2" to cover my ass :/
                              Right, sorry for the confusion, what I am saying is i don't know if the torque for the "older" bolts is the same of not.
                              For what its worth I did the RB's on my E63 M6 a few months ago and needed the 1/2". The torque for those was 6nm, 20nm, 130°, very similar.

                              I would get an opinion from someone else but it felt like for me, someone of "average" strength the 3/8" wrench maybe could have worked but I really don't think I would have managed to do each bolt with just one pass.
                              It's got to be something with torquing above your head side to side not up/down where you are more firmly planned.
                              2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                              Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                              Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                              OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                              RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                              2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                              Instagram

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

                                Right, sorry for the confusion, what I am saying is i don't know if the torque for the "older" bolts is the same of not.
                                For what its worth I did the RB's on my E63 M6 a few months ago and needed the 1/2". The torque for those was 6nm, 20nm, 130°, very similar.

                                I would get an opinion from someone else but it felt like for me, someone of "average" strength the 3/8" wrench maybe could have worked but I really don't think I would have managed to do each bolt with just one pass.
                                It's got to be something with torquing above your head side to side not up/down where you are more firmly planned.
                                Ah, got it. Yeah the torque sequence on the M10 (newer) bolts seems like it would require applying more torque -- just first pass is 105 degrees rather than just a single pass of 70 degrees for the M11 bolts. But it's not clear how much more "actual" torque I'll need to be applying to get where I need to be with one vs the other. So, yeah, I see, maybe it is possible to get away with a 3/8" techangle. I don't think I want to take the chance though. I think I'll just get the 1/2" techangle and then sell it on if I really think it would be nice to have a 3/8" for general use.

                                Thanks for the sanity check!

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