Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[PSUEng]

Doing some searching on fuel pump lock ring tools and just like seemingly everything else there are a ton of choices. Genuine BMW tool (#161020) is out due to price, but the BAUM, AST and Schwaben offerings look very similar to the genuine tool. Then there are CTA & BavAuto tools that look similar to one another but different from the genuine tool (complete circular contact with ring vs. open sides).

For those of you using one of these tools, which brand(s) are recommended?

[Slideways]

Doing some searching on fuel pump lock ring tools and just like seemingly everything else there are a ton of choices. Genuine BMW tool (#161020) is out due to price, but the BAUM, AST and Schwaben offerings look very similar to the genuine tool. Then there are CTA & BavAuto tools that look similar to one another but different from the genuine tool (complete circular contact with ring vs. open sides).

For those of you using one of these tools, which brand(s) are recommended?

Cheapest one as you'll probably only use it once. Or stick with the ol' multitasker - large flat head and a hammer lol

[Cubieman]

Doing some searching on fuel pump lock ring tools and just like seemingly everything else there are a ton of choices. Genuine BMW tool (#161020) is out due to price, but the BAUM, AST and Schwaben offerings look very similar to the genuine tool. Then there are CTA & BavAuto tools that look similar to one another but different from the genuine tool (complete circular contact with ring vs. open sides).

For those of you using one of these tools, which brand(s) are recommended?

A large flathead does work fine, just alternate which tabs you strike as to not bend one tab up. I use a tool that can be found locally almost anywhere.
This isn't the specific one but mine is of this style.

https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/wrench/p/oemtools-fuel-pump-spanner-wrench/110278_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:22350 391884&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22 356757832&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVsBbpOg6XJyXAgsHHhABO3j d&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9Ju3VwathlImS2iHrn CC xVLGtMo3W8ir6JuNNMJAEC5cD_8IFiBaivnhoCgI4QAvD_BwE

[Cubieman]

Does anyone have any inside info on the availability issues of the driver's side kingpin? Some sites say backorder, others NLA.

I am not looking at CSL spindles.


P/N: 31212229855

[0-60motorsports]

Does anyone have any inside info on the availability issues of the driver's side kingpin? Some sites say backorder, others NLA.

I am not looking at CSL spindles.


P/N: 31212229855

You are right thats what i am seeing too.

Check ebay i saw a few clean ones on there.

[Big Nodge]

Here is a legit dumb question. What is the easiest way to post pics taken with an iPhone? I always get an error message that they need to be resized. And I have not progressed past that step. Like I said, a pretty dumb/lazy question. Thanks.

[davidinnyc]

Here is a legit dumb question. What is the easiest way to post pics taken with an iPhone? I always get an error message that they need to be resized. And I have not progressed past that step. Like I said, a pretty dumb/lazy question. Thanks.

Tapatalk app!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sbay]

Here’s a kicker:
I used an impact (Milwaukee stubby) to tighten my strut top nut (PSS10s on Turner hybrid camber plates) after watching Vorshlag’s YouTube channel saying an impact is the best way to do it. I did a few zaps off the car and then a few more when the car was loaded to ensure all is tight. I did see what I believe to be the shaft spinning because after the nut was tight, what was underneath the nut kept spinning. I didn’t hold the trigger long, just a few turns per zap. However now I hear a slight noise when I go over bumps. Almost like a thud. I have the upper coil spring shim on so no metal on metal, it’s almost like a clunk but not really. I do have the knob turned to 7 so will be turning it down and rechecking to see if maybe that’s the problem. But I’m just concerned now that since I used the impact, I ruined the shocks. Any way I can to check to see if I did damage to the shocks without having to remove them and send them out to evaluate?

[Slideways]

Here’s a kicker:
I used an impact (Milwaukee stubby) to tighten my strut top nut (PSS10s on Turner hybrid camber plates) after watching Vorshlag’s YouTube channel saying an impact is the best way to do it. I did a few zaps off the car and then a few more when the car was loaded to ensure all is tight. I did see what I believe to be the shaft spinning because after the nut was tight, what was underneath the nut kept spinning. I didn’t hold the trigger long, just a few turns per zap. However now I hear a slight noise when I go over bumps. Almost like a thud. I have the upper coil spring shim on so no metal on metal, it’s almost like a clunk but not really. I do have the knob turned to 7 so will be turning it down and rechecking to see if maybe that’s the problem. But I’m just concerned now that since I used the impact, I ruined the shocks. Any way I can to check to see if I did damage to the shocks without having to remove them and send them out to evaluate?

I don't know what that says about Vorshlag if they are saying to do exactly what most instructions say not to do lol

My guess is the top nut is not torqued enough. There are those special $15 sockets that have an access hole in them to allow you to counter hold the shaft with a hex key while torquing down the nut. Or if you have a Harbor Freight down the street, they have those cheap angle wrenches that will get the job done as well. Second guess is the sway bar endlink is not torqued to spec.

[bavarian3]

+1 to Slideways comment. Something externally isn't snug. Double check droplinks, top nut, knuckle bolt etc.

I used these type for the top nut. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...t-socket-17mm/

[zzyzx85]

i typically use jam nuts for the strut tops. Once it's tight, I mark the nuts with a paint marker to see if they loosened up

[sbay]

I don't know what that says about Vorshlag if they are saying to do exactly what most instructions say not to do lol

My guess is the top nut is not torqued enough. There are those special $15 sockets that have an access hole in them to allow you to counter hold the shaft with a hex key while torquing down the nut. Or if you have a Harbor Freight down the street, they have those cheap angle wrenches that will get the job done as well. Second guess is the sway bar endlink is not torqued to spec.

Almost didn’t recognize you with the new profile pic. Just went through anything that attaches to the strut, loosed then retorqued everything to spec…still getting the same noise. Dialing the struts down to 2 made the ride quieter which helped amplify the bad. The bad being the noise is on the front right side of the car anytime I hit bumps at low speed. Being that I hit a curb a few months ago with front right being first point of impact and I’ve changed everything except the control arm and wheel bearing, going to test those out now. My guess, a bad ball joint on the control arm