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    Originally posted by CrisSilberGrau View Post
    What is the standard break in procedure with installing new cams (schrick 280/72) on existing followers? Is there an observed general distance to be travelled and what rpm should nit generally be gone over?
    I think the most break/wear-in would happen in the first 1000 miles with old followers, slightly longer with new followers. You definitely want to keep the revs up (don't let it idle too much) to keep oil on the cams and follower interface.
    "your BMW has how many miles!?"

    2003 (2/03) M3 coupe Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ RS One 450/550 - Ground Control Street - SDW RTAB - TMS Street ARCA - Redish V2 - TMS solid subframe bushings - Volk Racing G2 18x9.5 - StopTech ST40 355 (coming soon) - Beisan Systems VANOS parts - WPC OE rod bearings - Karbonius CSL airbox - Kassel MSS54HP DME - Kassel MAP sensor - Euro headers and Section 1 - SuperSprint Sport - Recaro Speed - Schroth Rallye 4 QF - AS 30% SSK

    build/journal
    ig: @zzyzx85

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      Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post

      I think the most break/wear-in would happen in the first 1000 miles with old followers, slightly longer with new followers. You definitely want to keep the revs up (don't let it idle too much) to keep oil on the cams and follower interface.
      Ok I got mixed results, a good mechanic friend told me a less time with new followers vs more time with old ones. Either way looks like I have some ways to go before I hit the dyno. I dont idle, just wondering if constant revs ie. hwy driving, or city driving are preferred over one or the other.
      2006 Silber Grau Metalizat ZCP 6 MT
      M-texture (F2AT) - Turner CSL V2/CatCams 280 272/SSv1/SS Sec1/Sec2 dual res/SCZA TI (raw) - FatCat stage 3 ult 400f/784r - EC7r 18x9.5 ET35/CRS 275/35/18 - RacingBrake BBK/MileEnd CSL bumper/Vorsteiner Trunk/Cobra Nogaro Circuit Mtexture/GC RCA/YURKan Cages/Hotchkiss/Vibra-technics/

      IG: https://www.instagram.com/htrlo/

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        Originally posted by CrisSilberGrau View Post

        Ok I got mixed results, a good mechanic friend told me a less time with new followers vs more time with old ones. Either way looks like I have some ways to go before I hit the dyno. I dont idle, just wondering if constant revs ie. hwy driving, or city driving are preferred over one or the other.
        That makes sense as well since old followers will be work hardened vs. new followers. When I wrote my response, I was thinking more of the geometry wearing together. new cams with new followers should be more square to each other, while new cam and old followers will "mate" up.
        "your BMW has how many miles!?"

        2003 (2/03) M3 coupe Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ RS One 450/550 - Ground Control Street - SDW RTAB - TMS Street ARCA - Redish V2 - TMS solid subframe bushings - Volk Racing G2 18x9.5 - StopTech ST40 355 (coming soon) - Beisan Systems VANOS parts - WPC OE rod bearings - Karbonius CSL airbox - Kassel MSS54HP DME - Kassel MAP sensor - Euro headers and Section 1 - SuperSprint Sport - Recaro Speed - Schroth Rallye 4 QF - AS 30% SSK

        build/journal
        ig: @zzyzx85

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          Don't think this necessarily a dumb question, but is there an aftermarket bracket or anything that would allow you to mount the stock oil cooler to radiator without the oil cooler shroud? If not I'm assuming the only options are use OEM shroud or pay to have something fabbed and or welded on.

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            Is this discoloration abnormal on my cams? These are the cylinder 5 exhaust cams and you can see there’s also a small mark on the top of the rear lobe which I can feel with my finger nail… The brown discoloration isn’t oil as I wiped it off to be sure.

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              Originally posted by M3Hokie View Post
              Is this discoloration abnormal on my cams? These are the cylinder 5 exhaust cams and you can see there’s also a small mark on the top of the rear lobe which I can feel with my finger nail… The brown discoloration isn’t oil as I wiped it off to be sure.
              Yes, on higher mileage engines or engines with long oil change intervals, there can be some light scoring on the cam lobes. As long as the follower underneath that cam lobe has not gone flat yet causing excessive tapping noise, you just keep running it until it does.

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                Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                Yes, on higher mileage engines or engines with long oil change intervals, there can be some light scoring on the cam lobes. As long as the follower underneath that cam lobe has not gone flat yet causing excessive tapping noise, you just keep running it until it does.
                Thanks for the insight slide, the followers all looked fine. Maybe I’ll throw in some schricks along with the csl box this summer hmmm…

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                  Does euro e46 m3s have a slightly lower ride height than US market cars? I know Porsches have US ride height and Rest of World (ROW).

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                    Does anyone know the part number of the wire retainer by the engine lift bracket on top of the coolant thermostat housing?

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                      Originally posted by Will View Post
                      Does euro e46 m3s have a slightly lower ride height than US market cars? I know Porsches have US ride height and Rest of World (ROW).
                      Not sure but stock ride height is 14.375" in front. Measured from center of wheel to top of front fender lip.
                      Last edited by Cronenberged; 03-10-2023, 07:09 PM.

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                        In the process of refreshing my subframe. Ordered a differential cover kit from FCP. Looks like it comes with all I need except for the bolts. Does anyone have a list of hardware needed for needed for the install? Thanks in advance
                        2003.5 BMW M3 Carbon Schwarz Metallic/Cinnamon 6 Speed – HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | AA Headers | AA Section 1 | SS Resonated Section 2 | SS Race Section 3 | TMS V2 CSL Airbox | TMS Street Plates | Ohlin’s R&T Coilovers | Ground Control Front and Rear Sways | Ground Control Adjustable Camber Arms | DMG Autosport Pro46R | FreakyParts BBK Front | Porsche 996 Conversion Rear | CMP Stage 1 + 1.5 Reinforcement Plates | CMP Subframe Bushings | CMP RTAB’s | SGT CSL Bumper | SGT CSL Trunk | Dr VANOS

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                          Buy the upgraded bolts (2), with a solid shank, not completely threaded. There's also a gasket, but that's not hardware. You don't need to repalce the 6 bolts holding the cover on.
                          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
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                            Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                            Buy the upgraded bolts (2), with a solid shank, not completely threaded. There's also a gasket, but that's not hardware. You don't need to repalce the 6 bolts holding the cover on.
                            Thanks Tbone
                            2003.5 BMW M3 Carbon Schwarz Metallic/Cinnamon 6 Speed – HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | AA Headers | AA Section 1 | SS Resonated Section 2 | SS Race Section 3 | TMS V2 CSL Airbox | TMS Street Plates | Ohlin’s R&T Coilovers | Ground Control Front and Rear Sways | Ground Control Adjustable Camber Arms | DMG Autosport Pro46R | FreakyParts BBK Front | Porsche 996 Conversion Rear | CMP Stage 1 + 1.5 Reinforcement Plates | CMP Subframe Bushings | CMP RTAB’s | SGT CSL Bumper | SGT CSL Trunk | Dr VANOS

                            Comment


                              Two dumb questions…

                              1) Could I use a silicone or rubber hose from Amazon or a local auto parts store to replace the circled parts? If so, what kind of hose would y’all recommend? The OE replacements, especially the short hoses, are ridiculously expensive for what they are.
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                              2) I am wanting to install OE or RE trans mounts, but the PO had a shop install AKG E21 trans mounts, which required the mounting holes to be drilled out by 1mm. Would I run into safety issues or NVH if I install OE or RE mounts? Any point in ordering a thin metal sleeve to go over the stud to eliminate the play? I can replace the cross member, but I can’t really replace the other end.

                              https://www.akgmotorsport.com/produc...e92-e93-z3-z4/
                              Last edited by SQ13; 03-14-2023, 09:57 PM.
                              Silver Track to Street Car Journal
                              Interlagos Blue Street Car Journal

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                                Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
                                Two dumb questions…

                                1) Could I use a silicone or rubber hose from Amazon or a local auto parts store to replace the circled parts? If so, what kind of hose would y’all recommend? The OE replacements, especially the short hoses, are ridiculously expensive for what they are.
                                Click image for larger version Name:	58B05572-F274-498E-9D27-8E6BB0703C87.jpg Views:	0 Size:	69.7 KB ID:	209647


                                2) I am wanting to install OE or RE trans mounts, but the PO had a shop install AKG E21 trans mounts, which required the mounting holes to be drilled out by 1mm. Would I run into safety issues or NVH if I install OE or RE mounts? Any point in ordering a thin metal sleeve to go over the stud to eliminate the play? I can replace the cross member, but I can’t really replace the other end.

                                https://www.akgmotorsport.com/produc...e92-e93-z3-z4/
                                Yes for the two top hoses - you just need to pull them off and get the inner diameter, but the bottom one that connects the ICV to the airbox steps down in size after the ICV and it might be harder to find something suitable.

                                What about replacing for stock E21 mounts? It could be that those holes are just locating dowels, but the mounts look pretty symmetrical and they could be there to prevent excess movement on the brace. Used braces should be pretty inexpensive.

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