Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[jet_dogg]

A good idea to change the idlers and tensioners, I think 60-75k is the right time.

[Will]

I am approaching 70K on my vehicle and just ordered the serpentine/AC belt as the AC belt isn't looking great and I don't know the last time either belt was replaced. I have owned the vehicle approximately 4 years and have never changed them.

Question: Assuming the pulleys/tensioners/idlers are original at 70k should I replace everything or would it be ok to just replace the belts? No squeaking etc.

2nd question: What brand(s) are generally acceptable on the pulleys/tensioners/idler/associated bolts?

I think I will likely just replace everything but just thought I would ask.

Thanks.

I think INA is the OEM for the pulleys, tensioners, and idler.

[K-Dawg]

I am approaching 70K on my vehicle and just ordered the serpentine/AC belt as the AC belt isn't looking great and I don't know the last time either belt was replaced. I have owned the vehicle approximately 4 years and have never changed them.

Question: Assuming the pulleys/tensioners/idlers are original at 70k should I replace everything or would it be ok to just replace the belts? No squeaking etc.

2nd question: What brand(s) are generally acceptable on the pulleys/tensioners/idler/associated bolts?

I think I will likely just replace everything but just thought I would ask.

Thanks.

Eventually you're going to have to replace the water pump anyway. If the bearings aren't gritty or loose, I'd just wait and keep an eye on it.

INA is OE/OEM and fairly inexpensive.

[ridebikes]

Exhaust question.....

Is it possible to modify where O2 sensors are located such that you could run 1) OEM Euro-Catless headers and 2) OEM Euro Catted Section 1 without inducing a Check Engine Light?

Or would you have to look into coding to run those two OEM Euro parts in an otherwise stock car? 🙇

[Cubieman]

Exhaust question.....

Is it possible to modify where O2 sensors are located such that you could run 1) OEM Euro-Catless headers and 2) OEM Euro Catted Section 1 without inducing a Check Engine Light?

Or would you have to look into coding to run those two OEM Euro parts in an otherwise stock car? 🙇

Yes, quite possible, you must cut the loom and route the Post-cat O2's/EGT sensor down the driver's side of the engine and they will 100% reach the Euro Sec. 1, many folks including myself have done this.

Unfortunately I think the really good DIY with pics is no longer around.

Edit: Or you could add the Euro O2 harness and not have to cut anything, I would have down this had I known it was a possibility at the time. Unfortunately these are getting quite expensive, the one I linked may or may not be the Euro version, you'll have to check that out closer if going that route.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/harness/12517835524/

[Will]

Exhaust question.....

Is it possible to modify where O2 sensors are located such that you could run 1) OEM Euro-Catless headers and 2) OEM Euro Catted Section 1 without inducing a Check Engine Light?

Or would you have to look into coding to run those two OEM Euro parts in an otherwise stock car? 🙇

Yes, quite possible, you must cut the loom and route the Post-cat O2's/EGT sensor down the driver's side of the engine and they will 100% reach the Euro Sec. 1, many folks including myself have done this.

Unfortunately I think the really good DIY with pics is no longer around.

Edit: Or you could add the Euro O2 harness and not have to cut anything, I would have down this had I known it was a possibility at the time. Unfortunately these are getting quite expensive, the one I linked may or may not be the Euro version, you'll have to check that out closer if going that route.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...s/12517835524/

Here's a PDF I made of the m3f DIY.

Extending O2 wiring for Section 1 with Cats - BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80:X).pdf

[ridebikes]

I love this thread! Thanks y'all.

[DropTopKingM3]

I am approaching 70K on my vehicle and just ordered the serpentine/AC belt as the AC belt isn't looking great and I don't know the last time either belt was replaced. I have owned the vehicle approximately 4 years and have never changed them.

Question: Assuming the pulleys/tensioners/idlers are original at 70k should I replace everything or would it be ok to just replace the belts? No squeaking etc.

2nd question: What brand(s) are generally acceptable on the pulleys/tensioners/idler/associated bolts?

I think I will likely just replace everything but just thought I would ask.

Thanks.

I would say the INA brand pulleys/tensioner/idlers would work. I just did them on my car at 70k along with belts. I bought them on FCP and all the reviews are great. The lifetime warranty will come in handy down the line when they’re due for a replacement.

[Nate047]

Anyone have any hot tips on restoring yellowed out fender badges? The grilles themselves are in good shape, but the little M3 badges on both are pretty gone. Just wondering if there's something to be done before replacing them.

[Tbonem3]

Magic eraser. Think that shortens their lifespan though, makes them more prone to yellow later.

I, personally, hit them when I'm polishing the fender (with d/a machine). Then seal with ceramic or "ceramic" sio2.

If you decide to replace, don't be tempted by the cheap emblems on ebay.

[dr_011]

If you decide to replace, don't be tempted by the cheap emblems on ebay.

well shit, this was gonna be my recommendation. Sticker_Tech on eBay has hooked me up with good quality replacements

[Tbonem3]

The size (thickness) of the "///" is wrong and the colors of the "///" is wrong as well. I think the "M" looks off too iirc. I'm not saying they look horrible, but if you are a detailed person at all, you will notice the difference. Probably depends on the person. It drove me nuts.

[Nate047]

Cool thanks, that kind of thing does drive me nuts too. I have a yellow headlight fix kit sitting around, I was going to use that and seal it. Maybe I'll try the magic eraser first

[terra]

Yes, quite possible, you must cut the loom and route the Post-cat O2's/EGT sensor down the driver's side of the engine and they will 100% reach the Euro Sec. 1, many folks including myself have done this.

Unfortunately I think the really good DIY with pics is no longer around.

Edit: Or you could add the Euro O2 harness and not have to cut anything, I would have down this had I known it was a possibility at the time. Unfortunately these are getting quite expensive, the one I linked may or may not be the Euro version, you'll have to check that out closer if going that route.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...s/12517835524/

If you do this, keep in mind the euro o2 sensors are keyed differently than the US ones. 3 of the 4 stock ones work fine if you move them around to the euro locations. The 4th is much shorter than the rest so you either have to shorten a sensor and modify the connector to fit the harness, or just buy the euro sensor.

You can also get the plugs to sit nicely in the euro bracket for that nice OEM look.

[dHam_Slow.46M]

So uuh... I think I've read somewhere before that the 2nd gear grind is an infamous bmw "trait" we all have to live with.... is this true or am I missing something here?

My car's had this issue for nearly a decade, but it hasn't really caused any other problems.