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    Originally posted by Darbshaw View Post
    Is there anything different in the front-core support for our cars and a generic 3 series? It's the same part on real OEM but I'm hesitant to believe that ours are stamped steel like the listings for generic supports online claim
    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=41_1097'
    Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
    Same part for all e46s.
    Mike
    All are the same EXCEPT Vert Non-M are cast aluminum IIRC.
    '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
    Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
    Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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      I've been getting the red battery light on the cluster anywhere past 5k recently. I figured my VR was going out, so I replaced that and am still running into the same issue. Checking the voltage using the OBC I get ≈ 13.5V (±0.1) at idle.

      Does this point to something else in my alternator failing and I should just get a new one?

      Comment


        Originally posted by ejendow View Post
        I've been getting the red battery light on the cluster anywhere past 5k recently. I figured my VR was going out, so I replaced that and am still running into the same issue. Checking the voltage using the OBC I get ≈ 13.5V (±0.1) at idle.

        Does this point to something else in my alternator failing and I should just get a new one?
        Which VR did you get and is this the original alternator (Valeo)?

        Comment


          Originally posted by Slideways View Post

          Which VR did you get and is this the original alternator (Valeo)?
          Not the original, but it is a Valeo alternator. I also used a Valeo VR.

          Comment


            Originally posted by ejendow View Post

            Not the original, but it is a Valeo alternator. I also used a Valeo VR.
            Were the brushes on the old VR fully worn out and not touching the contact point? If they were still good, then something else with the alternator might be bad. In which case, Rockauto has the best price for new Valeo alternators.

            Comment


              Originally posted by Slideways View Post

              Were the brushes on the old VR fully worn out and not touching the contact point? If they were still good, then something else with the alternator might be bad. In which case, Rockauto has the best price for new Valeo alternators.
              They were worn, but definitely still making contact. Is this a definite alternator issue? Is 13.5V at idle (and I believe around high 12 low 13 at higher rpm) not enough to charge the battery? I have a relatively new battery and my car has been dying after it's been sitting for a while recently.

              Comment


                Originally posted by ejendow View Post

                They were worn, but definitely still making contact. Is this a definite alternator issue? Is 13.5V at idle (and I believe around high 12 low 13 at higher rpm) not enough to charge the battery? I have a relatively new battery and my car has been dying after it's been sitting for a while recently.
                Based on other threads, the red battery light at 5k RPM points to the alternator.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by George Hill View Post



                  All are the same EXCEPT Vert Non-M are cast aluminum IIRC.
                  Thank you both. I appreciate it. It felt so flimsy once cut. I'm surprised it's steel. Good to know it's a simple replacement


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                    I've noticed some weaker starts last year, and got a new battery this Spring. I started to notice it again, so used the hidden diagnostic (19 - test 9) and the battery showed 12.2 volts. I left the battery on my ctek for a day or two, and checked again using test 9 and it only now shows 12.4 volts. When I use my multimeter at the battery, it shows just above 13v. Why is there a discrepancy between the hidden diagnostic battery test and my multimeter? If it matters, I hook the ctek directly up to the battery and it fully finished and got to step 7 or whatever the "done" one is.

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by bagger View Post
                      I've noticed some weaker starts last year, and got a new battery this Spring. I started to notice it again, so used the hidden diagnostic (19 - test 9) and the battery showed 12.2 volts. I left the battery on my ctek for a day or two, and checked again using test 9 and it only now shows 12.4 volts. When I use my multimeter at the battery, it shows just above 13v. Why is there a discrepancy between the hidden diagnostic battery test and my multimeter? If it matters, I hook the ctek directly up to the battery and it fully finished and got to step 7 or whatever the "done" one is.
                      I found a couple threads that talked about it being off a touch by (.1 or .2) being normal. I just checked it again and the battery and under the hood and in the test 9 - all lined up good enough.

                      I think I didn't let the battery "calm down" enough when I took it off my ctek before busting out the multimeter. Good thing this is the dumb question thread ...

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by IamFODI View Post

                        Are they TTY?
                        No. So here's my over-analysis on this:

                        My original bolts and plates have been re-used 1 time as of this writing and that was when my diff was out for bushings. Replacing axles (in a month or two) would be re-use #2 which at that time, the bolts would have been tightened 3 times to the same plates. An output flange leak in the future would mean another disassembly, which could happen within my expected ownership of the car. I don't drive the car a lot, but at this point, I may keep it indefinitely.

                        Now, my local dealer really out-prices the big internet parts houses on Genuine parts, but no "lifetime" warranty. So then, the bolts are $50 cheaper at my dealer and the plate set $9 cheaper than FCP. My thinking is, FCP on the plates and replace at next disassembly if necessary (plates take the serrations on the bolt flanges), and save $50 by buying a new bolt set at the dealer and re-use them one or two more times since 1] I'm on re-use #1 and no problem and 2] some of you guys are also re-using as are many others on other forums. But FCP warranty is only as good as their terms, them in business, etc. Gawd, this rabbit hole...

                        EDIT: Latvia suppliers have interesting offerings...
                        Last edited by PSUEng; 09-14-2024, 04:56 PM.

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by PSUEng View Post

                          No. So here's my over-analysis on this:

                          My original bolts and plates have been re-used 1 time as of this writing and that was when my diff was out for bushings. Replacing axles (in a month or two) would be re-use #2 which at that time, the bolts would have been tightened 3 times to the same plates. An output flange leak in the future would mean another disassembly, which could happen within my expected ownership of the car. I don't drive the car a lot, but at this point, I may keep it indefinitely.

                          Now, my local dealer really out-prices the big internet parts houses on Genuine parts, but no "lifetime" warranty. So then, the bolts are $50 cheaper at my dealer and the plate set $9 cheaper than FCP. My thinking is, FCP on the plates and replace at next disassembly if necessary (plates take the serrations on the bolt flanges), and save $50 by buying a new bolt set at the dealer and re-use them one or two more times since 1] I'm on re-use #1 and no problem and 2] some of you guys are also re-using as are many others on other forums. But FCP warranty is only as good as their terms, them in business, etc. Gawd, this rabbit hole...

                          EDIT: Latvia suppliers have interesting offerings...
                          10/10 IMO
                          2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
                          Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

                          2012 Mazda5 6MT
                          Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

                          Comment


                            Everyone with a 02'+ m3 with braided oil return line(not vanos oil line), does your AN fitting on the oil pan side have a crush washer(between the AN fitting and oil pan surface)?

                            Realoem doesn't capture this part in the diagram. My fitting from bimmerworld didn't come with one, but it seems my 01' fitting had one.

                            Curious if anyone can take a peek.

                            Comment


                              Washer: yes.
                              IG: @limited.slip

                              Imola Red E46 330i ZHP Sedan S54 6MT
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                              Comment


                                Yes, and if I recall its the same size as the oil pan drain plug washer as well.
                                '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                                Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                                Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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