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    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    Based on other threads, the red battery light at 5k RPM points to the alternator.
    Following up on this. Can confirm that it was my alternator that was bad. I guess replacing just the VR isn't good enough sometimes!

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      I just got my car back and had the shop install the Lightwerkz headlights...they don't even come on and make a noise that sounds just like the video. Has anyone experienced this?

      Does anyone know how to fix this? Please leave comment if you have any suggestions.
      /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

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        Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
        I just got my car back and had the shop install the Lightwerkz headlights...they don't even come on and make a noise that sounds just like the video. Has anyone experienced this?

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCjuVzRReHw
        What lightwerkz system did you go for? If LED projectors I think you need to do some wiring for them to work

        Comment


          Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post

          What lightwerkz system did you go for? If LED projectors I think you need to do some wiring for them to work
          I just went with their bi-xenon retrofit with the g5-brt projectors
          /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

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            Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post

            I just went with their bi-xenon retrofit with the g5-brt projectors
            Excellent choice. I have the same, im sure.

            Comment


              Was on the way to get my emissions done since I'm a month past due, and threw a low tire pressure light so immediately pulled back in and found this little guy. Can it be saved? Or is a new tire or pair of tires on my horizon?

              the best part about this, my SES light came on while I was idling searching for the leak.

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              Last edited by ugaexploder; 09-22-2024, 07:55 AM.
              /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

              Comment


                What is the open nipple circled in blue supposed to be attached to?

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                  Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post
                  What is the open nipple circled in blue supposed to be attached to?
                  Hmmm, mine has some tube attached, but where it goes I can't see; when I pulled the lamps last I never really paid attention so I'm interested in the answer. Here is what mine looks like:

                  Attached Files

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                    Ah its a vent hose to allow air to escape when refilling. Of course this isn't shown at all in realoem diagrams. Thank you!

                    Comment


                      I'm trying to identifty the right nut class/grade to order replacements for Ohlins top pin suspension. I don't have the original nuts, and there aren't markings on the stud. While it seems very unlikely to strip a damper's stud it's always better to do things right. 3DM doesn't respond to emails and has no phone contact.

                      For comparison sake here are the part #'s for the top nuts on Genuine BMW dampers:
                      Front strut top nut: M14X1,5-05 ZNS3
                      Rear shock top nut: M10X1-8 ZNS3

                      If I decipher these it looks like the front is an m14x1.5 and class 5(doesn't seem right)..with zinc whatever coating. Rear being a m10x1 class 8 and similar coating...Curious to see what others think.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
                        I'm trying to identifty the right nut class/grade to order replacements for Ohlins top pin suspension. I don't have the original nuts, and there aren't markings on the stud. While it seems very unlikely to strip a damper's stud it's always better to do things right. 3DM doesn't respond to emails and has no phone contact.

                        For comparison sake here are the part #'s for the top nuts on Genuine BMW dampers:
                        Front strut top nut: M14X1,5-05 ZNS3
                        Rear shock top nut: M10X1-8 ZNS3

                        If I decipher these it looks like the front is an m14x1.5 and class 5(doesn't seem right)..with zinc whatever coating. Rear being a m10x1 class 8 and similar coating...Curious to see what others think.
                        Do you mean the nut that secures the top hat (camber plate) to the damper?

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                          Do you mean the nut that secures the top hat (camber plate) to the damper?
                          Yep. These two.



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                          I figure no one has the exact answer outside of Ohlins or 3DM but doesn't hurt to bring the topic up.​

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                            Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

                            Yep. These two.

                            I figure no one has the exact answer outside of Ohlins or 3DM but doesn't hurt to bring the topic up.​
                            The front has a locking nut with metal tabs rather than nylon like the factory hardware. Can't remember for the rear. Sent you a PM with some info.

                            Comment


                              hey guys. i tried the search function- went a few pages deep in the results and couldn't find anything.

                              what's the thread with all the info for the v2 differentials?

                              edit. found one thread. https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...rsions-of-diff

                              had to go deep to find it.
                              Last edited by L0okitzRaj; 10-03-2024, 09:18 PM.

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                                had my tps, tcs, and abs lights come on all together last night on the highway. no change in how the car drove.

                                pulled some codes today and wanted to hear some of your thoughts. researching just a little bit makes it seem like i need to replace yaw sensor for DSC and possibly one or both dsc pressure switch?

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                                was able to pull some live reads from the scanner...shouldn't the rotating speed be 0 deg/sec? Both DSC pressure switches also seem not good...not bad either, but I thought both of these should be < 0. I need to have it hooked up and roll back and forth to see how all of the wheel speed sensors are doing.

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                                Last edited by ugaexploder; 10-11-2024, 05:24 PM.
                                /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

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