Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[George Hill]

Is there anything different in the front-core support for our cars and a generic 3 series? It's the same part on real OEM but I'm hesitant to believe that ours are stamped steel like the listings for generic supports online claim
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=41_1097'

Same part for all e46s.
Mike

All are the same EXCEPT Vert Non-M are cast aluminum IIRC.

[ejendow]

I've been getting the red battery light on the cluster anywhere past 5k recently. I figured my VR was going out, so I replaced that and am still running into the same issue. Checking the voltage using the OBC I get ≈ 13.5V (±0.1) at idle.

Does this point to something else in my alternator failing and I should just get a new one?

[Slideways]

I've been getting the red battery light on the cluster anywhere past 5k recently. I figured my VR was going out, so I replaced that and am still running into the same issue. Checking the voltage using the OBC I get ≈ 13.5V (±0.1) at idle.

Does this point to something else in my alternator failing and I should just get a new one?

Which VR did you get and is this the original alternator (Valeo)?

[ejendow]

Which VR did you get and is this the original alternator (Valeo)?

Not the original, but it is a Valeo alternator. I also used a Valeo VR.

[Slideways]

Not the original, but it is a Valeo alternator. I also used a Valeo VR.

Were the brushes on the old VR fully worn out and not touching the contact point? If they were still good, then something else with the alternator might be bad. In which case, Rockauto has the best price for new Valeo alternators.

[ejendow]

Were the brushes on the old VR fully worn out and not touching the contact point? If they were still good, then something else with the alternator might be bad. In which case, Rockauto has the best price for new Valeo alternators.

They were worn, but definitely still making contact. Is this a definite alternator issue? Is 13.5V at idle (and I believe around high 12 low 13 at higher rpm) not enough to charge the battery? I have a relatively new battery and my car has been dying after it's been sitting for a while recently.

[Slideways]

They were worn, but definitely still making contact. Is this a definite alternator issue? Is 13.5V at idle (and I believe around high 12 low 13 at higher rpm) not enough to charge the battery? I have a relatively new battery and my car has been dying after it's been sitting for a while recently.

Based on other threads, the red battery light at 5k RPM points to the alternator.

[Darbshaw]

All are the same EXCEPT Vert Non-M are cast aluminum IIRC.

Thank you both. I appreciate it. It felt so flimsy once cut. I'm surprised it's steel. Good to know it's a simple replacement


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[bagger]

I've noticed some weaker starts last year, and got a new battery this Spring. I started to notice it again, so used the hidden diagnostic (19 - test 9) and the battery showed 12.2 volts. I left the battery on my ctek for a day or two, and checked again using test 9 and it only now shows 12.4 volts. When I use my multimeter at the battery, it shows just above 13v. Why is there a discrepancy between the hidden diagnostic battery test and my multimeter? If it matters, I hook the ctek directly up to the battery and it fully finished and got to step 7 or whatever the "done" one is.

[bagger]

I've noticed some weaker starts last year, and got a new battery this Spring. I started to notice it again, so used the hidden diagnostic (19 - test 9) and the battery showed 12.2 volts. I left the battery on my ctek for a day or two, and checked again using test 9 and it only now shows 12.4 volts. When I use my multimeter at the battery, it shows just above 13v. Why is there a discrepancy between the hidden diagnostic battery test and my multimeter? If it matters, I hook the ctek directly up to the battery and it fully finished and got to step 7 or whatever the "done" one is.

I found a couple threads that talked about it being off a touch by (.1 or .2) being normal. I just checked it again and the battery and under the hood and in the test 9 - all lined up good enough.

I think I didn't let the battery "calm down" enough when I took it off my ctek before busting out the multimeter. Good thing this is the dumb question thread ...

[PSUEng]

Are they TTY?

No. So here's my over-analysis on this:

My original bolts and plates have been re-used 1 time as of this writing and that was when my diff was out for bushings. Replacing axles (in a month or two) would be re-use #2 which at that time, the bolts would have been tightened 3 times to the same plates. An output flange leak in the future would mean another disassembly, which could happen within my expected ownership of the car. I don't drive the car a lot, but at this point, I may keep it indefinitely.

Now, my local dealer really out-prices the big internet parts houses on Genuine parts, but no "lifetime" warranty. So then, the bolts are $50 cheaper at my dealer and the plate set $9 cheaper than FCP. My thinking is, FCP on the plates and replace at next disassembly if necessary (plates take the serrations on the bolt flanges), and save $50 by buying a new bolt set at the dealer and re-use them one or two more times since 1] I'm on re-use #1 and no problem and 2] some of you guys are also re-using as are many others on other forums. But FCP warranty is only as good as their terms, them in business, etc. Gawd, this rabbit hole...

EDIT: Latvia suppliers have interesting offerings...

[IamFODI]

No. So here's my over-analysis on this:

My original bolts and plates have been re-used 1 time as of this writing and that was when my diff was out for bushings. Replacing axles (in a month or two) would be re-use #2 which at that time, the bolts would have been tightened 3 times to the same plates. An output flange leak in the future would mean another disassembly, which could happen within my expected ownership of the car. I don't drive the car a lot, but at this point, I may keep it indefinitely.

Now, my local dealer really out-prices the big internet parts houses on Genuine parts, but no "lifetime" warranty. So then, the bolts are $50 cheaper at my dealer and the plate set $9 cheaper than FCP. My thinking is, FCP on the plates and replace at next disassembly if necessary (plates take the serrations on the bolt flanges), and save $50 by buying a new bolt set at the dealer and re-use them one or two more times since 1] I'm on re-use #1 and no problem and 2] some of you guys are also re-using as are many others on other forums. But FCP warranty is only as good as their terms, them in business, etc. Gawd, this rabbit hole...

EDIT: Latvia suppliers have interesting offerings...

10/10 IMO

[bavarian3]

Everyone with a 02'+ m3 with braided oil return line(not vanos oil line), does your AN fitting on the oil pan side have a crush washer(between the AN fitting and oil pan surface)?

Realoem doesn't capture this part in the diagram. My fitting from bimmerworld didn't come with one, but it seems my 01' fitting had one.

Curious if anyone can take a peek.

[kaiv]

Washer: yes.

[George Hill]

Yes, and if I recall its the same size as the oil pan drain plug washer as well.