"Best" aftermarket Vanos line?

[WOLFN8TR]

You easily secure any Vanos line you go with by adding one of these Cable Clamps. 😎

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Lokman-Stainless-Rubber-Cushioned/dp/B01N8TU0FH

[old///MFanatic]

For all those that bought new lines. Did your old OE one really break or is this a part that is easily made from shops and marketed as something that "needs" to be done?
Seems strange a part would move so much to break that's connected to the engine. I understand the engine moves, but it moves as a unit. (Yes I understand vanos line is under oil pressure)

[heinzboehmer]

For all those that bought new lines. Did your old OE one really break or is this a part that is easily made from shops and marketed as something that "needs" to be done?
Seems strange a part would move so much to break that's connected to the engine. I understand the engine moves, but it moves as a unit. (Yes I understand vanos line is under oil pressure)

The original VANOS line part number was superseded by BMW in 2005 (old pn 11367831700, new pn 11367837614). The old part only had one mounting tab, whereas the new one has two. The extra tab is closer to the VANOS to avoid having the line vibrate and crack/rub against something. So yeah, the original design was prone to failure.

[Syfon]

I have the Bimmerworld line. Yet to install it though.

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Camshafts/BimmerWorld-S54-Vanos-Line.html

[Icecream]

For all those that bought new lines. Did your old OE one really break or is this a part that is easily made from shops and marketed as something that "needs" to be done?
Seems strange a part would move so much to break that's connected to the engine. I understand the engine moves, but it moves as a unit. (Yes I understand vanos line is under oil pressure)

mine blew as have others. The problem is, the new one while secured better seems to press exactly where the old one looked worn. So, knowing that I prba ly would have gone a differe t route.

[old///MFanatic]

mine blew as have others. The problem is, the new one while secured better seems to press exactly where the old one looked worn. So, knowing that I probably would have gone a different route.

From the aftermarket marketing, they state it gives at the top banjo fitting to line crimp. Is this what you’re saying or something different? Earlier I thought you were describing rubbing lower by the block.

Ok, so a non-rigid hose that flexes like all these aftermarket design likely better than updated line.

If these alleviate that why do these aftermarket hose brands seem to always say replace/inspect like every track session and every year? That’s the part that makes me wonder if it’s really an upgrade.

[Icecream]

From the aftermarket marketing, they state it gives at the top banjo fitting to line crimp. Is this what you’re saying or something different? Earlier I thought you were describing rubbing lower by the block.

Ok, so a non-rigid hose that flexes like all these aftermarket design likely better than updated line.

If these alleviate that why do these aftermarket hose brands seem to always say replace/inspect like every track session and every year? That’s the part that makes me wonder if it’s really an upgrade.

Yes, it rubs at the block. It is very firmly pressed against it. Probably last another 200k like the old one so there is that.
And yeah, I have heard that too about the aftermarket ones. Part of it I'm sure is just CYA by the suppliers (since a failure could blow a motor). That was another thing I didn't want to deal with, all these companies saying tested to this and that blah blah blah but then you buy it and its made in china with generic parts and what have you gained really? They also seem to imply the OEM one is "only" tested to meet the 1200psi of the vanos (or whatever it is), I am certain the OEM piece can hold much more than that and since they don't blow because the pressure rating is exceeded I see that that as a moo point. flip a coin

[DanAvoN7]

On 99% of vanos overhauls (unless a customer requests a different line) I install the revised Genuine OE BMW vanos oil line. I always suggest this part over aftermarket options as it fits great and with the additional mounting tab it will be a very reliable part. I have yet to see one of the revised lines fail. I also believe some of the original line failures are due to improper install during vanos overhauls. I've seen a few cars in which the top banjo bolt was torqued prior to tightening the vanos oil line lower mounting tab bolt which put additional stress on the line.


Revised Genuine OE BMW vanos oil line installed during a vanos overhaul.




With some of the aftermarket lines they rub slightly on the lower radiator hose, have different line internal diameter, etc. Also, I wanted to mention for those who have purchased the Bimmerworld vanos oil line, DOUBLE CHECK your torque spec for the banjo bolts. The instructions I've seen have said to torque the banjo bolts to 20 ft. lbs!!! This is incorrect and will lead to stripping threads. I have notified them of this torque spec mistake and they said they would correct it in their installation instructions. The correct torque spec for the banjo bolts is 115 in. lbs (you should be using a calibrated inch lbs. torque wrench for vanos related work). Also, be sure to use a torque wrench for the vanos to cylinder head bolts. I've also seen a local installer strip these threads on multiple cars.. The correct torque spec for these bolts is 89 in. lbs.

[old///MFanatic]

Oh man not sure which route to go, gotta pull the trigger within a couple hrs for discount.

[r4dr]

I installed a RE line when I did my VANOS bulletproofing recently. Fitment was spot on, I didn't notice it rubbing on anything. I don't think that extra clamp on the left VANOS bolt is really necessary other than peace of mind. If you let the aftermarket braided line flow naturally, it doesn't seem to stress the banjo fittings.

I torqued the banjo bolt to Beisan's number in their DIY and no issues. Good luck getting a torque wrench on the lower banjo bolt, though.

[old///MFanatic]

I installed a RE line when I did my VANOS bulletproofing recently. Fitment was spot on, I didn't notice it rubbing on anything. I don't think that extra clamp on the left VANOS bolt is really necessary other than peace of mind. If you let the aftermarket braided line flow naturally, it doesn't seem to stress the banjo fittings.

How did you get a RE one with the clear sheathing over the S/S braided hose? RE and ECS show it all black. Is their an option somewhere from them?
I like the clear (or even transparent blue over S/S).

[r4dr]

How did you get a RE one with the clear sheathing over the S/S braided hose? RE and ECS show it all black. Is their an option somewhere from them?
I like the clear (or even transparent blue over S/S).

I didn't even know there was a difference, I just ordered one from ECS and it showed up looking like that. Also came with 4 crush washers which was nice.

[old///MFanatic]

I didn't even know there was a difference, I just ordered one from ECS and it showed up looking like that. Also came with 4 crush washers which was nice.

Actually the more I look at it that isn’t what RE advertises as their product. At least not now, the top fitting looks different from smooth low profile on both sides (edit* ok maybe not so different, could be lighting). You got this recently?

[zzyzx85]

I have the RE one. Been over a year and no issues with it.

[Fresh1179]

+1 on Bimmerworld. Been used on 20 plus track days with no issue. I hope you are installing with the VANOS off. It is an absolute nightmare to get the lower screw (not the banjo bolt) in but this was very early in my work on the car. Still remember it to this day haha!