Front strut brace

[bavarian3]

Directly from Rogue website, this will make more sense than my short explanation. Basically they are saying sometimes the bar won't just slip over all 6 studs. I think one or both of my towers have moved so I might be in that category.

.....When fitting it on either an E36 or E46 with OE strut mounts, remove the 3 nuts from both sides. You can place one side of the RACEBRACE on one side and loosely install the nuts a few threads. For the other side, you may be required to lift up on that side with a floor jack to "lower" the strut stud threads move out of the way so that the bar may sit flat. Be careful NOT to jack it up too high as the entire strut may drop out of the strut tower. Once the bar can sit flat, you can lower the car so that the strut mount studs and protrude through the tower and the brace at the same time...

that makes sense now. luckily no issues here installing fully grounded.

[Cubieman]

He’s saying on cars that have issue being installed normally with a one piece brace. RE suggest to lift a side so the strut mount & studs slip down. That way the brace holes line up easier to get the studs from the bottom while flush. Making it the shortest distance between brace holes and studs side to side. As opposed to at a slight angle trying to clear raises strut mount studs (making it shorter) and not able to clear the studs on one side to mount brace.

But yes, even lowering like that with the alignment stud/nub intact I doubt the alignment would be thrown off.

My issue is I have aftermarket plates, so I would loose alignment, no alignment pin, if I indeed had to drop a strut.

Just trying to suss stuff out before I order things, and unfortunately I really won't know what's what until I have the product, I really think my towers are out of spec.

[eacmen]

He's saying on cars that have issue being installed normally with a one piece brace. RE suggest to lift a side so the strut mount & studs slip down. That way the brace holes line up easier to get the studs from the bottom while flush. Making it the shortest distance between brace holes and studs side to side. As opposed to at a slight angle trying to clear raises strut mount studs (making it shorter) and not able to clear the studs on one side to mount brace.

But yes, even lowering like that with the alignment stud/nub intact I doubt the alignment would be thrown off.

Ah I understand now.

I've never had this issue on either of our cars. Sometimes you need to man handle it to get the studs through the plate but never needed to jack up the car. And if you did I would suspect you would only need to do it once during initial install.

[Casa de Mesa]

My issue is I have aftermarket plates, so I would loose alignment, no alignment pin, if I indeed had to drop a strut.

Just trying to suss stuff out before I order things, and unfortunately I really won't know what's what until I have the product, I really think my towers are out of spec.

Hey Cubieman - can you mark the stud position relative the strut tower? Even with masking tape that's outside the perimeter of the strut tower brace. Use a straight edge to transfer the stud alignment to some other part of the car by marking the masking tape.

I've done lots of alignments myself on several different types of cars and even if you get it close by not perfect (back within 0.1 - 0.2 degrees, easily achievable), you're not going to impact toe which is the real killer of tires if that's what you're concerned about.

[bigjae46]

My issue is I have aftermarket plates, so I would loose alignment, no alignment pin, if I indeed had to drop a strut.

Just trying to suss stuff out before I order things, and unfortunately I really won't know what's what until I have the product, I really think my towers are out of spec.

You won't lose the alignment if you loosen the top bolts and support the wheel. Use a floor jack and jack up the tire if the wheel has to be up. Just don't roll it, bounce it...or even breath on it! J/k about breathing on it.

It is an extra pain the ass...I get it. I remove the OEM strut bar quite a bit. I don't get why the strut bar base plates need to be made to such tolerances I hope they don't think the strut mount studs are the main lateral load path (or whatever the technical term is). I would think the lip on the inner opening would do that.

[OldRanger]

you can use the stock bar on your 02, i've been using one for years on my 01


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fits perfectly - even with the mushrooms on the early cars

[jvit27]

Since this thread has been pretty busy, figured I'd ask if anyone recognizes what bar I have. Always assumed it was an early Mason/Rogue but cannot find any pics of one like this anywhere.

Detectives what say you??

[Cubieman]

Never have I seen that one, on a side note I received my RE bar yesterday, I'll have to send it back. One plate was bent badly and the other side is twisted a few degrees off from the other.
The D.S lines up but the P.S isn't close, the plate isn't on the same "plane" as the other, it's like it's rotated 5° off.

You can see the issue on the vehicle and when I set the bar on a flat surface you can see one plate is offset from the other.

I was told to try and install it and if doesn't work send it back, I can't even install this as one side doesn't line up for shit.

[prostcfc]

Cubieman did you ever sort this out with Rogue? Saw your post so I didn't pull the trigger on one of these. I also just installed MCS 1WNR with GC Race plates, and I've got both pushed as far towards the engine as the holes will allow so I can minimize camber adjustment on the plate itself (hidden set screws that can make camber adjust a PITA).

[Cubieman]

Cubieman did you ever sort this out with Rogue? Saw your post so I didn't pull the trigger on one of these. I also just installed MCS 1WNR with GC Race plates, and I've got both pushed as far towards the engine as the holes will allow so I can minimize camber adjustment on the plate itself (hidden set screws that can make camber adjust a PITA).

They sent a new one out, it'll be here tomorrow, hopefully all is well!

[davidinnyc]

Since this thread has been pretty busy, figured I'd ask if anyone recognizes what bar I have. Always assumed it was an early Mason/Rogue but cannot find any pics of one like this anywhere.

Detectives what say you??

Yes, this is a very early version RE bar. I was just chatting with Ben about this design a few weeks ago.

[prostcfc]

They sent a new one out, it'll be here tomorrow, hopefully all is well!

Cool. Please update if you're able to fit it without jacking up one side, etc!

[Keith_MN]

Has anyone taken any clearance measurements of aftermarket options between the intake & bar? I have a TMS box and the snorkel contacts the bar. 🙄I know some people shim the bar but I'd rather get something that fits better if it's an option.
Cubieman any feedback on that Rogue?
theOracle love the look of that DS Works bar. I'm reaching out to them, but would love to know if it looks like there is more clearance.

[Cubieman]

Has anyone taken any clearance measurements of aftermarket options between the intake & bar? I have a TMS box and the snorkel contacts the bar. 🙄I know some people shim the bar but I'd rather get something that fits better if it's an option.
Cubieman any feedback on that Rogue?
theOracle love the look of that DS Works bar. I'm reaching out to them, but would love to know if it looks like there is more clearance.

My new Rouge Bar fits better than the old bar, the old one had a manufacturing defect.

It may be an issue with my chassis but the inner 1/3rd of each footing sticks up more than a 1/4" on each side.

Once bolted down the gap may close up a bit.

I can take some photos as well if I remember.


Edit, here are the photos, I think I will just stick with the factory brace.

You can see the footings not fully contacting the towers on the inner sides, the gaps are bigger than these photos show, hard to get it in focus.

Also, note how much the bar moves when bolted down, not saying this is good or bad, just noting.

When bolted down the bar touches the ICV fitting, when even the inner two bolts are removed there is a much greater gap between the bar/fitting.

This may be my chassis, a defect in the bar, both, I can't say.

[OldRanger]

I think I will just stick with the factory brace.

I did. On two of these cars. A 2005 with a Turner CSL-style and a 2002 with those bumps on the strut tower.

On a 2005 I added washers between the mounting points and the crossbar to provide clearance over the CSL style intake. On the 2002 I used OEM fasteners (nuts) that have ann extended threaded section.