Black & Tan 332iT

[0-60motorsports]

Did you tune two M3s with the OEM CSL setup and SSV1's or just one? if two were there differences in the tune between the two? Im guessing yes if you were custom tuning both.

Great work on the tuning.

[Bry5on]

Did you tune two M3s with the OEM CSL setup and SSV1's or just one? if two were there differences in the tune between the two? Im guessing yes if you were custom tuning both.

Great work on the tuning.

I tuned my car that has the OEM CSL setup and SSv1s and downloaded the tune to the two M3s without any changes. My WOT tunes also target different interpolation RPMs to get the flattest AFR curve I could after several iterations with the wideband O2 sensor and CAN datalogging (both faster and higher sample rate than Testo). Timing and knock sensitivity are not quite as aggressive as some of the aftermarket tuners, I’d rather have less risk of damaging the motor than 5 extra horsepower.

[0-60motorsports]

I tuned my car that has the OEM CSL setup and SSv1s and downloaded the tune to the two M3s without any changes. My WOT tunes also target different interpolation RPMs to get the flattest AFR curve I could after several iterations with the wideband O2 sensor and CAN datalogging (both faster and higher sample rate than Testo). Timing and knock sensitivity are not quite as aggressive as some of the aftermarket tuners, I’d rather have less risk of damaging the motor than 5 extra horsepower.

Oh Thats great! That means us others are looking lucky right now if you were to do this for us LOL. Cheers.

[Bry5on]

Oh Thats great! That means us others are looking lucky right now if you were to do this for us LOL. Cheers.

One of the tunes was done remotely so yes it is an option!

[0-60motorsports]

One of the tunes was done remotely so yes it is an option!

Awesome!!! Thanks for doing this.

[Bry5on]

Well look at that, rear 18x8.5 style 135 wheels will clear the front 996 brakes with a 3mm spacer. That makes a perfect et47 front offset. If only there was an 18x9.5 et45 or so to match in the rear for a CSL 235/265 stagger. Barrel clearance is the same as my 17” Apex wheels.

[Bry5on]

Replaced a dying ignition coil and washed it. Thought it cleaned up pretty well for 230k miles.

[Bry5on]

A couple recent repairs worth documenting, otherwise working well.

The BavSound driver's side woofer failed, the rubber surround tore and would buzz at certain frequencies. These were installed when I got the car, so I contacted BavSound and they were super cool to sell me just a pair of replacement woofers. The woofers are a newer style with an inverted surround that appears like it won't have the same failure mode. New style on the left, old style on the right (repaired temporarily with black RTV):


A while back I'd been struggling with a ticking/clicking noise in my steering column. After putting in new lower bushings that sound went away, but recently a new clicking sound appeared, and this one was louder and came with feedback through the wheel. I figured it was wear at the spline joint of the bottom of the steering column, as everything else is new or rebuilt by me, so I decided I would take this opportunity to do the final part of a manual swap. Not relevant to the M3 guys, but automatic e46s have a shifter cable that prevents you from removing the key if the car is in gear. This makes the key tumbler harder to turn and always bothered me because I knew it wasn't right. So this morning I headed to the local junkyard and lucked out to find a manual e46! Taking out the steering column with the wheel locked was tricky but doable by separating at the tilt/telescoping joints. I then had my way with an angle grinder and managed to remove the ignition tumbler without a matching key but still leaving no damage to the column itself. I swapped my tumbler in and away we went. Clicking problem is solved.

I also managed to find uncut rear fender insulation and the knob HVAC panel. For some reason I like the knobs. There were two black e46 tourings (one an '06!) with black interior, and one was a slicktop. I resisted the urge to take the headliner and pick up a very large project.


On the top is the manual column, bottom is my automatic one:


I took the best of parts and hybridized them into one column:


Hard to drive this way:


I also took a video of the Mullet tune in action. This is reversing from idle up my driveway, which is uphill, at a temperature that should have had the car operating in the regular (not cold start) map. You can get a sense of how easy it is to take off from a start with the tune, and this will most likely look unfamiliar to you if you have an s54 with stock cams and a CSL airbox:

https://youtu.be/hAV2H8qVOMA

Bonus shot of the car taking advantage of my extra-clearance M3 suspension setup:


I guess this was a bigger update than I expected.

[karter16]

I also managed to find uncut rear fender insulation and the knob HVAC panel. For some reason I like the knobs.

Nice! I quite like the simplicity of the knobs as well - it's a straight plug and play swap right? (The only time it's not is if you get the non-AC version of the knobs I think?)

[Bry5on]

Nice! I quite like the simplicity of the knobs as well - it's a straight plug and play swap right? (The only time it's not is if you get the non-AC version of the knobs I think?)

I've very recently learned that perhaps the entire heater core/HVAC unit needs to be swapped. So maybe this is more trouble than it's worth...

[karter16]

I've very recently learned that perhaps the entire heater core/HVAC unit needs to be swapped. So maybe this is more trouble than it's worth...

Ah that would be disappointing. From memory when I looked into this a few months ago, the connector profiles are the same between the two units, and as far as I could tell the only other HVAC system parts that were different were the wiring harness, and the presence of automatic AC sensor. I reckon it would at least be worth swapping control unit out and seeing what breaks.

[Bry5on]

Ah that would be disappointing. From memory when I looked into this a few months ago, the connector profiles are the same between the two units, and as far as I could tell the only other HVAC system parts that were different were the wiring harness, and the presence of automatic AC sensor. I reckon it would at least be worth swapping control unit out and seeing what breaks.

Looks like the IHKR (knobs, versus LCD equipped IHKA) uses a single stepper motor and some gears instead of two/three stepper motors to control face/foot/dash ventilation. It's the stepper and the gears that need to be swapped. I might just head back to the junkyard to grab the harness, stepper and gears at least, as long as they're separable.

[Bry5on]

More discussion and video of the differences (thanks George!) on the IHKR in my sister thread over here: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...#post-19247331

[George Hill]

Its funny how things are, I've been wanting to put IHKR in my wagon for sometime now too and am going down this road as we speak. Unfortunately it doesn't seem like an easy retrofit, I made this video outlining the mechanical work as I can tell so far:

https://youtu.be/5ubvA1DAOAo

[Bry5on]

In today's episode of fixing problems other people created, I install new sound deadening covers over the rear wheel arches.

I have been working on another project (more details later) that required a couple quick trips to the junkyard for some electrical connectors. While I was there, I discovered a couple e46 tourings. One of them had already been disassembled in the rear hatch area and I noticed a distinct lack of cut holes above the rear shock mounts. For those not in the know, doing rear shock mounts on a touring requires disassembling essentially the entire trunk, so often times mechanics will cut an access hole in the insulation above the mounts to save themselves some effort. Well, as it turns out, sound deadening works best when it's continuous, so those folks are unknowingly trading away some NVH. My favorite.

So this afternoon I disassembled the trunk yet again, added some sound deadening butyl sheet, then reassembled with continuous insulation. Here are some photos to document the changes.
Right side before:


And during, showing the locations I placed sound deadening:



And the left side before:


And with sound deadening mat:


Bonus photo, a nice hack fix (zip tie and adhesive) for the D-pillar trim if it's starting to fail at the fastener:


While I was in there I also discovered that the tint shop that ruined my rear defroster also ruined my antenna mount to the side glass by shaving off the mounting wire. This explains why my remote range dropped after the tint job. Hopefully some conductive silver epoxy will fix this one and get my antenna range back.

Before I started, a buddy swung by with his new machine, in stark contrast to what I was doing today:


And to anchor on that contrast, here's a slicktop orient blue wagon with manual, heated, sport natural brown interior at the Oakland junk yard: