BlueBus: A fully integrated A2DP Bluetooth solution

[t3ddftw]

Just FYI:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bluebus-.../bluebus1~blu/

[heinzboehmer]

Just FYI:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bluebus-.../bluebus1~blu/

Nice!

[pmt]

Hello!

So, the reason you're getting distortion above 75% phone volume is because you increased the volume of the BlueBus. A "perfect" volume for the BlueBus when combined with a DSP Amplifier is -14dB and 100% phone volume.

Please note that the "volume" setting is only applicable to the analog audio output as it is setting the DAC volume over I2C

To your question, Yes! You can buy the coaxial cable and set the DSP setting to Digital and ditch the analog connector altogether! I actually recommend this anyways. I recommend this cable: https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1636-ND/457012

Thanks!
-Ted

Thanks Ted!

With it set to -14dB and phone volume at 100%, it was still a lot quieter than FM radio. However, I tried another phone (iPhone 8+) and it was fine -- so it seems to be a phone issue (Galaxy S7 strikes again!)

I'm also going to order an SMB coax cable from Amazon (a lot faster and cheaper than digikey) and will let the group know if it works in case anyone has the same question.

[t3ddftw]

Thanks Ted!

With it set to -14dB and phone volume at 100%, it was still a lot quieter than FM radio. However, I tried another phone (iPhone 8+) and it was fine -- so it seems to be a phone issue (Galaxy S7 strikes again!)

I'm also going to order an SMB coax cable from Amazon (a lot faster and cheaper than digikey) and will let the group know if it works in case anyone has the same question.

Ah, I forgot that -- the S6 and S7 have issues with BT volume to begin with... won't be as much of an issue with the DSP in digital mode.

You really need to make sure that your Amazon coax is a 75ohm impedance cable, and not 50ohms. It's imperative that the S/PDIF signal be impedance matched through and through.

Thanks!
-Ted

[AdamM3]

Ted, blue bus is great so far. Have a question for you. I installed the bluebus a few months ago and everything has been great, then a couple of weeks ago i installed a oem mic and wired up the connector for the phone integration. I tested the phone integration and it seemed to work ok, the person on the other end send it was a little echoey. The problem though is after i did that , my battery started to drain. My wife then told me when she walked past the car in the garage that it was on. Well she was right, the information display on the cluster was on. Looks like something is causing the car not to go to sleep. If i unplug only the connector for phone integration of the bluebus, the car goes to sleep properly. I double checked the wiring with the information you gave me and it seems right. Any thoughts?

[herwawan]

I should be able to swing back around to getting cases and TCU adapters shipped out in the next 14 days or so.

Thanks for your patience!

-Ted

Hey Ted! What's the status of those cases and adapters? Thanks!

[t3ddftw]

Ted, blue bus is great so far. Have a question for you. I installed the bluebus a few months ago and everything has been great, then a couple of weeks ago i installed a oem mic and wired up the connector for the phone integration. I tested the phone integration and it seemed to work ok, the person on the other end send it was a little echoey. The problem though is after i did that , my battery started to drain. My wife then told me when she walked past the car in the garage that it was on. Well she was right, the information display on the cluster was on. Looks like something is causing the car not to go to sleep. If i unplug only the connector for phone integration of the bluebus, the car goes to sleep properly. I double checked the wiring with the information you gave me and it seems right. Any thoughts?

Very nice! Sounds like the TEL ON signal might be keeping the radio awake? Can you try this?
1. Open the trunk and make the BlueBus visible to you. Unplug the TCU adapter cable from the BlueBus
2. Close all the doors and remove the key from the ignition. Leave the trunk open
3. Walk away for ten minutes.

When you come back, the green LED on the BlueBus SHOULD be off. Is that the case? If not, something is wrong with the BlueBus.

Otherwise, there's gonna be something wrong with the radio, most likely. Sounds like a Nav car, so I can let you borrow a BM53 for testing.

On the echo issue, the newest firmware should fix that up:

https://t3ddftw.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/BlueBus/firmware/bluebus_1_1_10_4.hex

Hey Ted! What's the status of those cases and adapters? Thanks!

I have 200 cases and a handful of cables to ship, so next ten days or so.

Thanks!
-Ted

[heinzboehmer]

Ted, blue bus is great so far. Have a question for you. I installed the bluebus a few months ago and everything has been great, then a couple of weeks ago i installed a oem mic and wired up the connector for the phone integration. I tested the phone integration and it seemed to work ok, the person on the other end send it was a little echoey. The problem though is after i did that , my battery started to drain. My wife then told me when she walked past the car in the garage that it was on. Well she was right, the information display on the cluster was on. Looks like something is causing the car not to go to sleep. If i unplug only the connector for phone integration of the bluebus, the car goes to sleep properly. I double checked the wiring with the information you gave me and it seems right. Any thoughts?

Otherwise, there's gonna be something wrong with the radio, most likely. Sounds like a Nav car, so I can let you borrow a BM53 for testing.

I had a battery drain issue recently. Turned out to be my radio (CD53). Changed the unit out and drain is gone. Had nothing to do with the BlueBus, but the drain did start right after the BlueBus install. My car did not come with the ULF or SES modules.

AdamM3 try measuring current across the radio fuse (41) with the car off and key removed. Then disconnect the radio and check if the current consumption drops. Mine dropped almost 0.8 A. I could also hear a very faint hissing coming from the speakers even when everything was supposedly turned off.

[t3ddftw]

I had a battery drain issue recently. Turned out to be my radio (CD53). Changed the unit out and drain is gone. Had nothing to do with the BlueBus, but the drain did start right after the BlueBus install. My car did not come with the ULF or SES modules.

AdamM3 try measuring current across the radio fuse (41) with the car off and key removed. Then disconnect the radio and check if the current consumption drops. Mine dropped almost 0.8 A. I could also hear a very faint hissing coming from the speakers even when everything was supposedly turned off.

That's a good call! a BM53 will pull about 0.6A at idle, for what it's worth.

[AdamM3]

When I unplug the tel interface connector on the bluebus everything works as expected and the car goes to sleep properly. If i plug in the tel connector on the bluebus, the information display on the instrument cluster never turns off. In my case, i don't think its the radio which is a business cd. Ted, I will try your test to verifiy that led. I did not get a tcu adapter cable, i used the provided connector and removed the pins from the connector. It's possible i messed that up but i verified the wire pin locations with what you gave me, and also the fact that the phone interface seems to work fine(other than the sleep issue) but i will check them again. The car is down right now because im in the middle of doing rod bearings so it may be a week or so before i can try it.

[t3ddftw]

When I unplug the tel interface connector on the bluebus everything works as expected and the car goes to sleep properly. If i plug in the tel connector on the bluebus, the information display on the instrument cluster never turns off. In my case, i don't think its the radio which is a business cd. Ted, I will try your test to verifiy that led. I did not get a tcu adapter cable, i used the provided connector and removed the pins from the connector. It's possible i messed that up but i verified the wire pin locations with what you gave me, and also the fact that the phone interface seems to work fine(other than the sleep issue) but i will check them again. The car is down right now because im in the middle of doing rod bearings so it may be a week or so before i can try it.

The fact that the cluster stays on leads me to believe you may have inadvertently wired the KL-R (ignition on) signal to the TEL ON pin on the BlueBus. When you have a chance, I would like to know the color of the wire in pin 4 of the BlueBus connector (pin 4 is the bottom row, closest to the six pin audio connector on the BlueBus). Some radios don't require the TEL ON signal to pipe out call audio, so it's entirely possible to wire this incorrectly and have everything work.

Thanks!
-Ted

[pmt]

Ah, I forgot that -- the S6 and S7 have issues with BT volume to begin with... won't be as much of an issue with the DSP in digital mode.

You really need to make sure that your Amazon coax is a 75ohm impedance cable, and not 50ohms. It's imperative that the S/PDIF signal be impedance matched through and through.

Thanks!
-Ted

I wasn't even sure if the digital input on the amp worked since it has never been used, but I installed the digital cable and it sounds so much better. I highly recommend everyone using analog to get a digital cable, it's a amazing upgrade for <$10!


Ted, is there any reason why the auto-unlock feature wouldn't work on the E53? I tried it on both settings (POS 1 and POS 0, making sure to drive each time) but it doesn't work. Not sure if it matters, but auto-lock was enabled before the BlueBus was installed.


Thanks!

[t3ddftw]

I wasn't even sure if the digital input on the amp worked since it has never been used, but I installed the digital cable and it sounds so much better. I highly recommend everyone using analog to get a digital cable, it's a amazing upgrade for <$10!


Ted, is there any reason why the auto-unlock feature wouldn't work on the E53? I tried it on both settings (POS 1 and POS 0, making sure to drive each time) but it doesn't work. Not sure if it matters, but auto-lock was enabled before the BlueBus was installed.


Thanks!

Yes, the digital input is awesome! However, this does NOT apply to any E46 EVER -- period . Unfortunately, the DSP Amplifier was only ever offered on the E3X / E53 / Z4.

Yeah, the General Module on the E53 is the newer variant ZKE3_GM5/ZKE3_GM6, unlike the E38/E39 which uses the ZKE3_GM1-4. The diagnostic messages I use to trigger door locks are just different between the variants.

A wonderful fellow I know decoded the EDIBAS Group files and gave me the diagnostic index to variant mapping, so I just have to map that inside the BlueBus to make things work right, I just haven't had a chance to write serious code lately.

Thanks!
-Ted

[t3ddftw]

All,


Just a heads up -- https://t3ddftw.s3.us-east-2.amazona...bus_1_1_11.hex is the newest firmware. I recommend updating to it.


The following fixes were made from 1.1.9 and 1.1.10:

* Call volume doesn't cause music volume to go sky-high anymore

* Call volume is adjusted as the user adjusts the volume regularly so that the same audio level can be consistently achieved.

* BM24 users (EU) should now not have problems with the radio becoming unresponsive when using the unit with the BlueBus

* UI identification has been improved to prevent issues with the MKIII Nav units using the "older" (pre-version 40) UI

* Mini Cooper R53 users with Navigation can now summon the BlueBus menu using the "RND" button on the CD53.


The following features were added:

* Coolant temperature can now be added to the Navigation headers (Settings > UI > Temps)

Firmware update instructions can be found here: https://github.com/tedsalmon/BlueBus...rmware-Upgrade


Thanks!
-Ted

[Will ZCPM3]

Hey Ted, any issue running and long USB cable to the unit and leaving it permanently attached? Would make for easier updating (not removing trim panels, etc).