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    Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
    I've heard the recommendation to do an oil change ~1200 miles after fresh rod bearings which sounds reasonable. Is there any merit to also doing one really soon (100-200 miles in) just to get all of the dirt/grit/assembly lube that found its way into the engine during the job out of there? Is that standard practice?
    Any merit? Sure. I wouldn't expect it to change the game, but theoretically there should be some benefit.

    I've heard of change schedules something like, first oil change after the first ~10 minutes of runtime, then again after a couple hundred miles, then again at ~1k miles, then whatever your normal change interval is. I'm sure I'm remembering the numbers wrong so don't take them as gospel, but you get the idea.
    Last edited by IamFODI; 08-04-2025, 10:45 AM.
    2008 E90 M3 6MT
    Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions

    2011 E90 328i 6MT
    RWD, slicktop, no iDrive

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      Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
      I've heard the recommendation to do an oil change ~1200 miles after fresh rod bearings which sounds reasonable. Is there any merit to also doing one really soon (100-200 miles in) just to get all of the dirt/grit/assembly lube that found its way into the engine during the job out of there? Is that standard practice?
      Reason for not changing the oil is that the oil filter will catch any debris and they didn't do a 1200 mile oil change after the recall.

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        I was amazed at the amount of paint marker "debris" that I found on my M6 oil filter shortly after doing RB's. Probably not a big deal, but I will go a bit ligher on that next time. I just like to mark each bolt immediately after its torqued.
        2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
        Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
        Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

        OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
        RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

        2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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          Can somebody remind me what color wire is the 12V switched power going to the BM53 amp in the trunk? I think it's red with green stripe??

          Also, anybody what gauge wire that 12V switched line is? I'm trying ton find the right size posi-connector to tap into it.
          2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 280/272 Schrick Cams+P54 Followers | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 336/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | VAC Exhaust Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

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            Originally posted by duracellttu View Post
            Can somebody remind me what color wire is the 12V switched power going to the BM53 amp in the trunk? I think it's red with green stripe??

            Also, anybody what gauge wire that 12V switched line is? I'm trying ton find the right size posi-connector to tap into it.
            RT/GN (rot,gruen) is permanent 12V. Switched should be VI/WS aka violet/white.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	41.8 KB ID:	314394​

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              Not sure what happened here. Been there for a while, but now it's bothering me. Should I be worried about this? Or just sharpie it and call it a day? Tires probably have like 2,000 miles on them - tops.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	789.7 KB ID:	314570​
              Last edited by bagger; 08-05-2025, 02:33 PM.

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                to me, that just looks like a remnant of a sticker. i feel like you should be able to just pick it off.

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                  Originally posted by L0okitzRaj View Post
                  to me, that just looks like a remnant of a sticker. i feel like you should be able to just pick it off.
                  Hah. Wow. I never wanted to pick at it to potentially make it worse. Picked at it, and you were right - thanks! How that never came off with all the tire cleaning and stuff I have no idea. Glad I'm in the dumb question thread. Thanks!!

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                    Anybody have experience with these "aftermarket" HJS muffler hangers? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...js-18201401797

                    The OE BMW ones are $85/piece and I need 3. Would much rather spend $25/piece, but won't bother if they're crap or lesser in quality from the BMW pieces. I hesitate because it says it's aftermarket, not OEM.

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                      I *think* the HJS were found to be subpar, more flexible, someone else will chime in I'm sure.
                      I remember going OEM but this was 3 years ago when they were likely much cheaper.

                      FWIW one of the Uber expensive, but very nice, Rouge Engineering mounts on PS coupled with rubber OE style mounts on the DS makes for a solid yet still compliant setup with minimal to zero NVH.

                      I have a SCZA muffler that would hit the EVAP casing on occasion and that is the reason I run that setup.
                      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                      Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                      Instagram

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                        Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                        I *think* the HJS were found to be subpar, more flexible, someone else will chime in I'm sure.
                        I remember going OEM but this was 3 years ago when they were likely much cheaper.

                        FWIW one of the Uber expensive, but very nice, Rouge Engineering mounts on PS coupled with rubber OE style mounts on the DS makes for a solid yet still compliant setup with minimal to zero NVH.

                        I have a SCZA muffler that would hit the EVAP casing on occasion and that is the reason I run that setup.
                        Can confirm the aftermarket ones are rubbish, OE is expensive but cheaper in the long run than replacing every year.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                        2005 ///M3 SMG Coupe Silbergrau Metallic/CSL bucket seats/CSL airbox/CSL console/6 point RACP brace/Apex ARC-8s
                        Build Thread:
                        https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...e46-m3-journal

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                          Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
                          Anybody have experience with these "aftermarket" HJS muffler hangers? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...js-18201401797

                          The OE BMW ones are $85/piece and I need 3. Would much rather spend $25/piece, but won't bother if they're crap or lesser in quality from the BMW pieces. I hesitate because it says it's aftermarket, not OEM.
                          I'm running the HJS ones mainly because at time of purchase I didn't really understand the differences between OE, OEM, and Genuine BMW parts...but they seem to work just fine, I've had zero issues. Hard to justify $350 for all (5) exhaust bushings that are genuine BMW...

                          Also purchased the rogue mount but didn't install, let me know if anyone wants to buy it from me for cheap. I personally don't like the idea of the design.
                          /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

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