Dumb Question Thread - No Flaming Allowed

[mrgizmo04]

I bought my car with aftermarket studs and lug nuts, and I've always had aftermarket wheels. Looking to get a set of OEM BMW factory wheels and wondering if its ok to use my open ended conical lug nuts, or would need to find a set of lug nuts with a different seat shape for the OEM wheels?

I don't see why not, stock lugs have a conical shape too.


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[Thonas]

after I install a CSL airbox can the car be driven about an hour to the tuner/dyno? I am sure it will throw codes but will it damage anything? thanks

[robgill]

after I install a CSL airbox can the car be driven about an hour to the tuner/dyno? I am sure it will throw codes but will it damage anything? thanks

Yes. You will get a check engine light because of the missing MAF sensor but the engine will run on a backup alpha n map to estimate airflow. Just be reasonable and keep the revs low. You should also check with your tuner, they may just give you a base tune to load.

[BigRussia]

I don't see why not, stock lugs have a conical shape too.


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Thanks! Dam, I just assumed they were ball seat like other OEM manufacturers' wheels, I even ended up buying ball seat adapters for my conical lug nuts from MSH the day after my post. Luckily they were basically free with the BF discount, but guess I wont be needing them.

[r4dr]

I bought my car with aftermarket studs and lug nuts, and I've always had aftermarket wheels. Looking to get a set of OEM BMW factory wheels and wondering if its ok to use my open ended conical lug nuts, or would need to find a set of lug nuts with a different seat shape for the OEM wheels?

OEM bolts are conical seat, meaning OEM wheels take conical seat bolts or nuts. If your existing lug nuts are conical seat, you will be fine.

Almost all aftermarket wheels that are designed to go on BMWs, to my knowledge, match the conical seat OEM bolts.

Edit: whoops, didn't see there was already an answer on the next page.

[Lem Bongan]

Advice requested on two subjects:

1. Are the following Koni suspension products a good match for the below-described unit and use, or is there a better fit? Koni rear shocks (Cat # 00707897); left front (898); and right front (899). Assume that I continue to use OEM (or BMW original) springs, which should last 150,000 miles. Assume further that budget ceiling is $3,500 materials and labor.

2. What brake-system components should be installed. Assume budget ceiling is $5,000 materials and labor.

Background: My unit is 2002 M3 SMG (E46) coupe with less than 100,000 miles (18 inch wheels). My predecessor installed Crossfield rotors (ok performance) and BBS wheels (Michelin tires per local shop); everything else is stock. VANOS upgrade roughly 10,000 miles ago. No major meltdowns. Reluctantly, my days of using the third pedal are over (i.e., clutch usage stiffens the back and that is why I use SMG).

I have selected the local specialist to perform conservative "subframe" upgrade (not foam; no visible cracks yet) and new cooling systems (preemptive as well). While that work is being done, I want to complete a "refresh" of both suspension and brake systems, which some conservative owners would preemptively do before 100,000 miles (or less).

The unit is used in the following ways: workaday urban commuting less than 25 miles on bumpy secondary roads (lowering the car below stock is not a good idea); weekend Northern California highway driving above 85 mph less than 200 miles; several annual trips on open interstate averaging more than 600 miles per day at above 85 mph; no track usage yet, but may try it out in calendar 2021 (probably no more than two or three times per year going forward); no driving in accumulated snow or to ski areas; intermittent rain November through March. Responsiveness and reliable handling are top priority; a soft ride is not necessary (however, it is worth noting that I drove an E39 540i into the ground over 10 years with a good mix of soft ride and solid handling, including excellent original brakes).

Updated advice is very valuable and appreciated.

Lem Bongang

[Thonas]

Is guibo replacement miles, time or both? My car has 29k miles and I am going to be working in that area of the car and want to see if I should replace it.

[HighSchoolDream]

Is guibo replacement miles, time or both? My car has 29k miles and I am going to be working in that area of the car and want to see if I should replace it.

Not sure exactly what you’re working on in the area but this post should help

[DropTopKingM3]

Is guibo replacement miles, time or both? My car has 29k miles and I am going to be working in that area of the car and want to see if I should replace it.

It wouldn’t hurt for piece of mind. Do the center support bearing as well along with the transmission mounts since you’re in there.

[ridebikes]

Newb question: Is an ECU upgrade required to run any kind of intake, CSL or otherwise? If so, is converting to MAF always required to when upgrading the ECU?

Bonus question: how reversible is taking out MAF and returning to "stock"? Plug-and-play or major headache?

[M3Bob]

For those w powerflex diff bushings...did you have to use a shorter bolt on the front diff mount? My mechanic is putting mine in and apparently with the new bushings in the old bolt bottoms out leaving about 6mm or so of the bolt exposed.

Thanks!

[DropTopKingM3]

I was looking through pics on my phone. A few months back I took a few pictures of my rear with my cellphone so I can get a look at what’s going on underneath.

Does anything look wrong here? Bushingwise

[oceansize]

I was looking through pics on my phone. A few months back I took a few pictures of my rear with my cellphone so I can get a look at what’s going on underneath.

Does anything look wrong here? Bushingwise

Nothing can be discerned about the subframe bushings without dropping the subframe and pulling them out. Most consider them a wear item to be replaced after 100k miles on a street driven car.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/8099-e46-m3-maintenance-lockdown-thread?p=8103#post8103

[DropTopKingM3]

Nothing can be discerned about the subframe bushings without dropping the subframe and pulling them out. Most consider them a wear item to be replaced after 100k miles on a street driven car.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...=8103#post8103

I’m going to have the subframe reinforced hopefully within the next month. Better to be safe than sorry.

[oceansize]

I’m going to have the subframe reinforced hopefully within the next month. Better to be safe than sorry.

I'm lowered and in a vert like you and I installed CMP solid bushings which corrects suspension geometry on lowered cars. Highly recommend. Great time to do rear end links, sway bar bushings, and diff bushings if you haven't already done so.