Just use the right driver, problem solved.
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Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
I just did this and wish I could tell you bolt size, I went to ACE and just compared and used thier pitch finder board and easily found the right stuff.
This is from screeshot from a DIY off buildjornal.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...3248/204281931
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Originally posted by BMWE46M3 View PostDoes anyone know what the hex bolt (M6) identified as # 4 in the bellhousing image is for? Thanks...
Edit: retains this https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...BoCMmoQAvD_BwELast edited by fourmula1; 10-23-2023, 11:32 AM.
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Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
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Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
I would either cap it off or duct it as it will draw in hot engine bay air otherwise. However many people just leave it open and don't run the flap and don't seem to have any real problems. The eventuri scoop is a nice middle ground as far as getting in cooler air, or so it would seem.
Just wanted to duct as much cool air to the intake as possible as I am running the CSL intake without the intake tract/bumper it was designed to run with.
Considering deleting the fogs on my car so I had the thought of a setup using something like one of those dual hole cover plates running flex pipe from the 2 holes to the snorkel, secondary hole and then brake cooling duct using a Y splitter somewhere. Gut instinct is that it's not possible to fit / it's not worth the effort but that's why we all love the E46 anyway. Any chance there's something there worth looking into?
Pics for refence:
Last edited by SUPREM3///; 10-23-2023, 11:51 PM.
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Originally posted by SUPREM3/// View Post
I haven't put any thought into this so could easily not even be possible due to spacing. Just throwing it out there before going to bed because of the beauty of this thread.
Considering deleting the fogs on my car so I had the thought of a setup using something like one of those dual hole cover plates running flex pipe from the 2 holes to the snorkel, secondary hole and then brake cooling duct using a Y splitter somewhere. Gut instinct is that it's not possible to fit / it's not worth the effort but that's why we all love the E46 anyway. Any chance there's something there worth looking into?
Pics for refence:
2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
Instagram
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Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
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I'm going to pick up my car from a body shop for the very first time today, I've never had paint work done before. As for paint match, they've repainted everything EXCEPT the driver's side front/rear fenders and door. Should I be expecting a perfect match to the original paint on those panels and the new paint on the rest of the car, and if not, to how high a standard should I be holding them? If I can see the difference between the old/new paint, should I be asking them to repaint? I have no idea of what's reasonable here. But if it's supposed to be damned near perfect then I think that's important to know before I pay them. Color is Carbon Black Metallic, shop is King's Auto Body Shop in Huntington Beach, CA, who were recommended by forum members.
Thanks for any advice on this!!
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Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
I’m planing on doing this soon. While I can remove the door panel and can see benefits to doing so, can this repair be done with the panel on? I remember seeing a video on YouTube of a guy doing it without pulling the panel, looked a little tricky when holding the mirror and getting enough wire harness slack pulled through to actually work on the mirror.
On the driver side, it was a pain trying to release the side view mirror connector. I actually rested the door card on a stool while I detached the armrest to avoid damage to the connector.
I could snap some photos of that area with the card removed if helpful.Last edited by ugaexploder; 10-24-2023, 10:19 AM.
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Originally posted by ATB88 View PostI'm going to pick up my car from a body shop for the very first time today, I've never had paint work done before. As for paint match, they've repainted everything EXCEPT the driver's side front/rear fenders and door. Should I be expecting a perfect match to the original paint on those panels and the new paint on the rest of the car, and if not, to how high a standard should I be holding them? If I can see the difference between the old/new paint, should I be asking them to repaint? I have no idea of what's reasonable here. But if it's supposed to be damned near perfect then I think that's important to know before I pay them. Color is Carbon Black Metallic, shop is King's Auto Body Shop in Huntington Beach, CA, who were recommended by forum members.
Thanks for any advice on this!!
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Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
I think it’s possible keeping the door card on, but I could also see it causing frustration as well. I do believe there is enough slack to pull off the 2 bolts and still have enough room to tighten the torx bolts that need tightening.
On the driver side, it was a pain trying to release the side view mirror connector. I actually rested the door card on a stool while I detached the armrest to avoid damage to the connector.
I could snap some photos of that area with the card removed if helpful.
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Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
Thanks but I’m painfully aware of the PITA disconnecting the mirror switch. I’ve in the past popped the switch out from the bottom, then disconnect the connector. Does bmw happen to sell that connector and it’s mating receptacle separately?
i bet they do sell the connector alone although im not sure of the part number. it seems like if you buy the upgraded bracket from mirrorjohn, you could use a narrow tool to unpin the connector.
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