What did you do for your M3 today?

[davidinnyc]

Gear position sensor went out on me a few weeks ago, so finally got some time to get to work. Since I would be dropping the driveshaft and exhaust Sections 1 and 2, I figured it would also be a good time to install the full CSL exhaust manifolds-to-Section 3 I managed to pick up. Since the headers were coming out, I also figured it would be a good time to replace the o-rings on the cam position sensors. Since I’d be removing the transmission support bar, I figured it would be a good time to replace transmission mounts. Since I’d be replacing transmission mounts, I might as well replace engine mounts… spiraled out of control. I had already managed through the CPV valve and boron o-ring replacement with stock US headers, so just checked torque here once more.

New parts:

1. Rogue Engineering transmission mounts
2. Gruppe N 800 engine mounts
3. GPS sensor
4. SGF Guibo + CSB

Well… probably didn’t need to replace the guibo because I saw zero cracks, but did so anyways. Hopefully I don’t have any broken detent springs because I didn’t feel like dropping the transmission.

I felt like an idiot when I tried to manually turn the driveshaft and nothing budged… because the car was on race ramps (doh). Propping the rear on jack stands freed the wheels and all was good in the world.

GPS wasn’t hard to replace, just very tight spacing.

I’m sure you all know this by now, but rather than mess with trying to NOT spill coolant everywhere, just open up the coolant drain plug on the engine block and funnel it down and get it over with… I tried to get fancy and creatively loop the coolant from the upper hose leaving the coolant reservoir but ended up making a mess anyways.

I fashioned an aluminum bracket to mount to the lower part of the driveshaft to “hold up” the driveshaft south of the CSB area so that coupler hung down enough to get to the GPS.

[davidinnyc]

My follow-up question before the headers get bolted back on:

1. Should I just leave the studs in place since none of them came out, or go ahead and replace them with the torx ended longer studs? I'm assuming no need and to go ahead and just add some copper anti-seize and bolt them back up.

2. Should I slap a wideband O2 sensor on one of the banks? I had previously purchased “euro” sensors to mate with the CSL Section 1 and bought new O2 sensors for pre-cat spots. (Recommendations accepted)

Thanks,

David


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[Slideways]

My follow-up question before the headers get bolted back on:

1. Should I just leave the studs in place since none of them came out, or go ahead and replace them with the torx ended longer studs? I'm assuming no need and to go ahead and just add some copper anti-seize and bolt them back up.

2. Should I slap a wideband O2 sensor on one of the banks? I had previously purchased “euro” sensors to mate with the CSL Section 1 and bought new O2 sensors for pre-cat spots. (Recommendations accepted)

Thanks,

David


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1. Leave stock studs with factory headers

2. Factory DME requires a pre-cat narrow band in each bank. If there are 1 or 2 extra pre-cat bungs like there are on aftermarket headers, then you can add a wide band sensor or two.

[davidinnyc]

1. Leave stock studs with factory headers

2. Factory DME requires a pre-cat narrow band in each bank. If there are 1 or 2 extra pre-cat bungs like there are on aftermarket headers, then you can add a wide band sensor or two.

Thanks - answers my questions. These are CSL headers so just one bung in each, but more curious as to what happens when I need to get Hassan to “enhance” the CSL DME. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.

David

[sg.e46m3]

finally got a chance to clean up my car

[Slideways]

Thanks - answers my questions. These are CSL headers so just one bung in each, but more curious as to what happens when I need to get Hassan to “enhance” the CSL DME. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.

David

There might be a way to keep the DME in open loop where it will not reference the pre-cat sensors. Then, a wide band sensor or two can be put in their place temporarily for tuning. The data from the wide band sensor needs to be read with separate software or an AFR gauge. This DME does not support wide band sensors.

Most dynos stick a wide band sensor in the muffler to get AFR data. It is not as accurate as having it right after the collector.

[LSB__M3]

Reassembly after a lengthy refresh of my TC Kline DA Coilovers. Wire wheeled the struts clean with a paint job, new bump stops, spherical bearings and a used set of TC Kline Camber plates. Tossed the springs into the ultrasonic cleaner too. Drastic before and after photos!

[karter16]

There might be a way to keep the DME in open loop where it will not reference the pre-cat sensors.

I *think* that bits 1 and 2 of K_LA_FREIGABE could be cleared (e.g. set K_LA_FREIGABE to 0xF9 instead of the default which is 0xFF) to prevent the switch on conditions from being met. This is documented in the funktionsrahmen (which I appreciate is not always accurate, however checking the disassembly it does appear that that is what those two bits do). Note that there is also a reference to being able to turn the lambda controller off via DS2 - so there is possibly also a way to do this via DIS or similar?






Disclaimer that no one should be messing with this unless they are confident that they know what they are doing!

[Altaran]

Finished with refreshing the diff bushings.

My diff started clunking again, which seemed strange as the last rebuild was not too long ago. Since the diff bushings were still poly, I wanted to change that anyways. I did poly when I started modding and did not know too much about it yet.

Today, I can just say that poly has no place in any bushings. Vibration damping is not good and material characteristics change from hard to soft over a short period of time.

As can be seen on the first image, the red poly front diff bushing started moving outward and the driver side rear bushing as well (forgot to take a pic of that). As a result, the diff was pretty much in the car crooked and complained via clunking. As can be seen in the second pic, the driveshaft started moving dangerously close towards one side almost making chassis contact.

Since my car is a track tool and I don't care about NVH, I decided to go solid metal. Installation was very simple. After the first test drive, everything feels as it should and no more clunking. NVH is not noticeably higher as it was with poly.

One other thing to mention is that I replaced all diff bolts. BMW has changed the rear bolts to have a shaft so the thread does not go all the way to the back. This is good, since the shaft is 0.1mm thicker than the thread, thereby decreasing play.
Since BMW did not do this to the front bolt, I source it elsewhere to have a shaft. Just make sure it has a 10.9 material rating and is galvanized.

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[nahvkolaj]

Nothing! I'm still waiting for the oil pan cover (rear pickup strainer) (BMW PN 11137832020). My car has the larger diameter cover, and I can't find it in the US. The retailer I ordered it from won't have it until April 30th.

If anyone has a lead on a new or good used part CONUS I will jump on it.

[Rokoz]

Reassembly after a lengthy refresh of my TC Kline DA Coilovers. Wire wheeled the struts clean with a paint job, new bump stops, spherical bearings and a used set of TC Kline Camber plates. Tossed the springs into the ultrasonic cleaner too. Drastic before and after photos!

Are these ultrasonic cleaners the real deal? I see ads for them everywhere but nobody I know has one

[LSB__M3]

Are these ultrasonic cleaners the real deal? I see ads for them everywhere but nobody I know has one

Every nut and bolt I’ve taken off the car has gone into the cleaner before reassembly, huge help so far removing grease, debris and rust. Was able to put my whole battery tray in last week before a coat of paint. Looks brand new!

[maupineda]

My wife went to Mexico and brought me some bits I needed to finish the CSL install that had stored there





the Z4 has a very conveniently located stud the places the connection pipe right where it needs to be.



It really is like BMW wanted it to be there LOL



Flashing the CSL map

[Altaran]

Are these ultrasonic cleaners the real deal? I see ads for them everywhere but nobody I know has one

Ultrasonic cleaners are the standard for getting parts clean at every industrial toolshop, so yeah they work.

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