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Got it out of the garage and got to drive it for the first time this year. Also, now 8 weeks post op from left ankle surgery (snapped my Fibula) so it was the most normal/best feeling thing to have done in while.
Same here, I'm constantly having "pop" my left knee when driving after I installed the Nogaros, might have to try the same.
Also 0-60motorsports, if that is an OEM clamp and you have a P/N, or even it's not and you have a link I llike the idea and would like to try.
What prompted you do this and did you notice any difference in regards to less NVH?
I see that a few have gone all out and got the CAD brackets, I may do that down the line as well.
I have the CAD Brackets too so i'll install those next time as I need to get the hardware for them. Finally found the Part numbers, forgot I had manually ordered via the local dealer LOL.
The car sounds a bit smoother and feels a bit smoother but i'll wait and see after the CAD brackets are installed. Should make a good difference.
I've been putting off starting this thread for a long time, and each time I work on the car I wish I had a place to drop updates. I'll start off here and fill in the details as I go along.
Background: I grew up working at my father's indy BMW/Mini shop, owned many BMWs, several Porsches and one 50 year old jag that's now
I have the CAD Brackets too so i'll install those next time as I need to get the hardware for them. Finally found the Part numbers, forgot I had manually ordered via the local dealer LOL.
The car sounds a bit smoother and feels a bit smoother but i'll wait and see after the CAD brackets are installed. Should make a good difference.
Can’t believe I’m about to pay $100 for this shit bc my $5k exhaust setup rattles like a bitch. Thanks for the links!
On their website, they refer to V1s as the "racing" version. Typically, these are meant for cars that mostly see track time and most of those cars are loud. The owners are not going to hear any rattles over a race muffler or diff whine.
Plus, the space where the V1s mate up to the section 1 cannot utilize a flange and standard gaskets. 63.5" pipes barely fit through there as is. SS uses the same slip joint with allen bolts on the Race muffler and that thing leaks like a sieve. All the 60mm stuff is flanged with proper gaskets and the street/sport muffler doesn't have a slip fit joint like the race muffler (between the muffler chambers).
Leg room mod. Nogaros put my left hip area in conflict with the more narrow than stock seat base and caused a pinch point. Pure joy with left leg now fully extended.
Made a “997 style” (though fixed) cupholder so my wife can put a big coffee or yeti somewhere without it getting in the way of shifting. Think I'll put euro tray back in now and use that as backup/no. 2 cupholder when needed
More info on this! Where can I buy this and the phone holder?!
Gear position sensor went out on me a few weeks ago, so finally got some time to get to work. Since I would be dropping the driveshaft and exhaust Sections 1 and 2, I figured it would also be a good time to install the full CSL exhaust manifolds-to-Section 3 I managed to pick up. Since the headers were coming out, I also figured it would be a good time to replace the o-rings on the cam position sensors. Since I’d be removing the transmission support bar, I figured it would be a good time to replace transmission mounts. Since I’d be replacing transmission mounts, I might as well replace engine mounts… spiraled out of control. I had already managed through the CPV valve and boron o-ring replacement with stock US headers, so just checked torque here once more.
New parts:
1. Rogue Engineering transmission mounts
2. Gruppe N 800 engine mounts
3. GPS sensor
4. SGF Guibo + CSB
Well… probably didn’t need to replace the guibo because I saw zero cracks, but did so anyways. Hopefully I don’t have any broken detent springs because I didn’t feel like dropping the transmission.
I felt like an idiot when I tried to manually turn the driveshaft and nothing budged… because the car was on race ramps (doh). Propping the rear on jack stands freed the wheels and all was good in the world.
GPS wasn’t hard to replace, just very tight spacing.
I’m sure you all know this by now, but rather than mess with trying to NOT spill coolant everywhere, just open up the coolant drain plug on the engine block and funnel it down and get it over with… I tried to get fancy and creatively loop the coolant from the upper hose leaving the coolant reservoir but ended up making a mess anyways.
I fashioned an aluminum bracket to mount to the lower part of the driveshaft to “hold up” the driveshaft south of the CSB area so that coupler hung down enough to get to the GPS.
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