What did you do for your M3 today?

[maupineda]

I also scored a used diff which will be rebuilt with my 4.1 crown and pinion and the racing diffs diffs kit. Does 350 sound like a good deal?

[fattycharged]

Well, I was surprised, I am sure I pulled everything out. Maybe 150-200ml left inside?

Yep, these are the best.

[WestBankM4]

Well, I was surprised, I am sure I pulled everything out. Maybe 150-200ml left inside?

The tube that's provided is pretty rigid as it has a metal wire running through it for shape, so getting it into all the lower crevices of the oil pain is tough.

We're leaving behind a bit of oil for sure, 100mL is what I've been leaving behind each change. Might be smart to get underneath and undo the drain plug every few oil changes I suppose?

[Altaran]

I'd be curious to see it installed, looks like it'll be interesting to package.

Not installed yet, but here is a picture of OEM vs EMU in size.
Hoping to get it done within the next few days.

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[maupineda]

The tube that's provided is pretty rigid as it has a metal wire running through it for shape, so getting it into all the lower crevices of the oil pain is tough.

We're leaving behind a bit of oil for sure, 100mL is what I've been leaving behind each change. Might be smart to get underneath and undo the drain plug every few oil changes I suppose?

I change it every year which is less than 2k kms so I am not worried about “old” oil left inside, and I compensated by putting 5.3l in and not 5.5.

is interesting to see how little oil S54 uses considering is 3.25l. Even the 2l I6 M54 used more than 6l of oil

[Stilt]

Little project going on … oem leather.

[0-60motorsports]

Little project going on … oem leather.

Very nice! Who is selling the leather? I need some

[Altaran]

Finished the hardware part of the Ecumaster Emu Black installation. It is a bit more crowded in there now, but I can fit everything in there and close the lid with no issues. Routing the the the wires for the LSU 4.9 through the factory cable ducts behind the engine was a pain but worth it as it looks stock.

Now waiting for the software guy to flash a base map so I can start putting miles on my car.

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[JokerElite]

RACP reinforcement progress

[PSUEng]

Finally replaced the trunk lock actuator. When unlocking the trunk with either 1) the key fob or 2) the interior release switch, the latch would intermittently unlock and quickly relock itself such that unless I lifted on the trunk when pressing the (key fob) button, it would not open (manual function with the key in the trunk cylinder was ok). I tried the "adjust the bumpers" method but no luck. I used the Genuine BMW actuator and it appears to work perfectly now and even sounds different when actuating.

A few notes on this job:
1] The 3 holes in the actuator bracket for the M6 T30 bolts are not threaded; TIS instructs to use "thread cutting bolts" but after looking at how the actuator has no real locating/temp install structure, I tapped the holes (holes are 5mm diameter so a basic M6x1.00 tap worked fine). I ended up installing new bolts and snugging them all up a little at a time to seat the actuator against the inner trunk surface where the latch protrudes and get it back into alignment as much as possible; odd design IMO.
2] The two screws holding the emergency kit in are a P1 Philips; difficult to see due to the felt covering the drive heads and risk of stripping the head.
3] Replace the reverse bulbs "while you're in there" due not having to pull the liner in the future.

[Calb]

New wheels finally arrived

[Cubieman]

Finally replaced the trunk lock actuator. When unlocking the trunk with either 1) the key fob or 2) the interior release switch, the latch would intermittently unlock and quickly relock itself such that unless I lifted on the trunk when pressing the (key fob) button, it would not open (manual function with the key in the trunk cylinder was ok). I tried the "adjust the bumpers" method but no luck. I used the Genuine BMW actuator and it appears to work perfectly now and even sounds different when actuating.

A few notes on this job:
1] The 3 holes in the actuator bracket for the M6 T30 bolts are not threaded; TIS instructs to use "thread cutting bolts" but after looking at how the actuator has no real locating/temp install structure, I tapped the holes (holes are 5mm diameter so a basic M6x1.00 tap worked fine). I ended up installing new bolts and snugging them all up a little at a time to seat the actuator against the inner trunk surface where the latch protrudes and get it back into alignment as much as possible; odd design IMO.
2] The two screws holding the emergency kit in are a P1 Philips; difficult to see due to the felt covering the drive heads and risk of stripping the head.
3] Replace the reverse bulbs "while you're in there" due not having to pull the liner in the future.

Nice! I have had the same issue as you know in that when I switched to a CSL trunk I must lift up on trunk while simultaneously pressing the key fob otherwise it just "doubles clicks".

I have a got it to work for short periods of time by messing with the adjustmers but it never seems to stay working. I'm all about spare parts so maybe I may have to just get another actuator as well even though in my case I feel its the trunk as it worked perfectly with the stock trunk.

[jpy1980]

Met up with NAM3 member ChapterM3 this morning at my place, traded parts and talked cars. Very 😎 guy!

We drank, we fought, we made our M3 ancestors proud!

[9kracing]

New wheels finally arrived

Sexy!

Are these the forged ones I saw on Instagram?

Specs?

[ChapterM3]

Met up with NAM3 member ChapterM3 this morning at my place, traded parts and talked cars. Very 😎 guy!

We drank, we fought, we made our M3 ancestors proud!

Awesome meeting up with you man! More sessions to come soon!!