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    Originally posted by liam821 View Post

    haha yeahhh I haven't driven the car in a long time and they got all rusty after the wash. I'm gonna assume the first drive it will be back to normal.
    Ya, that's what they all look like after a wash...if you let 'em sit for anytime. Yep, a quick drive will clean 'em right up.

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      -Cylinder head rebuilt
      -Rod Bearings
      -Engine Mounts
      -Starter Motor
      -Vanos rebuilt

      plus a heap of other maintenance items

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        Started the rod bearing replacement job. Not too bad, had the oil pan off in a little less than 4 hours complete with beer breaks!

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          Pulled off the roof skin in preparation for the sedan carbon fiber roof



          Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
          Last edited by nextelbuddy; 03-03-2021, 10:07 AM.

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            Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
            Pulled off the roof skin in preparation for the sedan carbon fiber roof

            Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
            So jealous....

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              @nextelbuddy COOL

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                did

                fuel pressure regulator change
                alternator belt
                found broken bolts for the front swaybar ..

                mileage improves a lot for highway only average ~~~
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                  Not today but in the last week or so:
                  -rod bearings
                  -control arms, tie rods, motor mounts, etc
                  -status gruppe coil overs + reinforcement plates
                  -CSL style wheels

                  11 E90 M3 Alpine White
                  96 FJ80 Black
                  05 E46 M3 Carbon Black: (sold)​
                  86 Porsche 944 Turbo Guards Red, 320 whp: (sold)
                  89 E30 Touring Alpine White, S52 swapped: (sold)
                  02 E46 M3 Steel Grey: (sold)

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                    Finished up the Karbonius CSL center console. The most effort required in doing this install requires a lot of rewiring/extending the mirror switch that's on the door, and running it into the existing rubber boot on the door to maintain a proper seal. Other than that, it works perfectly fine in the new position!

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                      Got the roof bow welded in this morning. Friend is a mobile welder and made quick work of it. About 15 min total done.

                      Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

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                        Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
                        Got the roof bow welded in this morning. Friend is a mobile welder and made quick work of it. About 15 min total done.

                        Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
                        Thanks for those pictures. I've been trying to find a close up of how the bow attaches to the pillars without much sucess for a while now. Car is going to look awesome, can't wait to see it finished.

                        Any reason why you can't/wouldn't want to epoxy and rivet the roof bow in? Would make this job more diy friendly if it was done that way.
                        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                          Today, I stared at it, intently and admired its beauty.
                          I'm as confused as you are.
                          M3BC, #18
                          Club 6MT

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                            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                            Thanks for those pictures. I've been trying to find a close up of how the bow attaches to the pillars without much success for a while now. Car is going to look awesome, can't wait to see it finished.

                            Any reason why you can't/wouldn't want to epoxy and rivet the roof bow in? Would make this job more diy friendly if it was done that way.
                            well you cant rivet it in because the places where the new spot welds (the places you would potentially drill holes for your rivets) WOULD go on the chassis, there are already spot welds in the existing sheet metal for other sheet metal so you would be drilling a hole through other spot welds. Technically the bow is supposed to be spot welded in place and it ties into existing spot welds of the other sheet metal but its not possible because of other sheet metal prevents you from getting to both sides o the sheet metal for a successful penetration.

                            another route would be to drill holes IN the roof bow so you can spot weld through those holes into the pillar.

                            We chose to stitch weld, it wasnt hard and it was quick.

                            i did consider panel bonding in the roof bow if welding wasnt an option. I'd honestly want to talk to a reputable body shop first to get their thoughts on that though.

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                              Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
                              well you cant rivet it in because the places where the new spot welds (the places you would potentially drill holes for your rivets) WOULD go on the chassis, there are already spot welds in the existing sheet metal for other sheet metal so you would be drilling a hole through other spot welds. Technically the bow is supposed to be spot welded in place and it ties into existing spot welds of the other sheet metal but its not possible because of other sheet metal prevents you from getting to both sides o the sheet metal for a successful penetration.
                              I know this is different between the sedan and coupe, but are you saying there are only a couple points of contact between the bow and the pillar (where the spot welds are)? Looking at pictures of the bows makes it seem like most of the surface area on the "ears" of the bow comes into contact with the pillar, as they look contoured to match.

                              Rivets would only be used to hold the bow and ensure that the epoxy dries at its optimal thickness for max strength, so those wouldn't really be structural once everything is cured. If there's enough of a contact patch, couldn't you just drill the holes for the rivets in places that don't interfere with the existing spot welds?
                              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                                Finally replaced my original 205k mile hood struts (aka hood droppers). All of 7 minutes and makes such a difference

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