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    Originally posted by Grke46m3 View Post

    How did you make out?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Ha, so I pulled out the cam bolts, which had already been done by a PO so I should have just left them alone (updated BMW bolts) but I just had to put in the Lang cam bolts and used blue 242 loctite as described in the beisan procedure.
    After doing those I noticed Lang recommended to use Red 263 loctite which they included with the bolts.
    I decided to pull them all out, replace with brand new Lang bolts and use Blue Loctite 243 which has a higher temp/torque rating than blue 242 and is better suited for oily environments but is still not semi-permant like the 263 Red.

    I just hope the remaining blue loctite in the female threads doesn't have a huge negative effect on adhesion as I used a ton of the stuff.

    /End loctite episode rant. I tend to over-complicate things for myself.

    As far as the rest the vanos rebuild itself was quite easy and kind of cool to see how everything works. I still have yet to put it all back together because I orderded more cam bolts..

    The other tricky part for me is deciding how much pre-load is too much for the splined shaft anti-rattle fix.

    Edit: splined not spliced shaft
    Last edited by Cubieman; 12-28-2020, 09:59 PM.
    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
    Instagram

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      Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
      The other tricky part for me is deciding how much pre-load is too much for the spliced shaft anti-rattle fix.
      Just preload it a ton. The excess friction will create new wear patterns in the metals and eventually everything will clearance itself out.



      (I'm kidding, don't actually do this lol)
      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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        Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

        Just preload it a ton. The excess friction will create new wear patterns in the metals and eventually everything will clearance itself out.



        (I'm kidding, don't actually do this lol)
        This part is where it would be nice to hand the shaft off to someone who has done this more than once and have the give it the OK, but I'm just going for a slight pre-load w/ no dragging. With no sanding and everything very clean inside the shafts it has what I perceive as way too much pre-load.
        2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
        Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
        Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

        OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
        RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

        2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
        Instagram

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          Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

          This part is where it would be nice to hand the shaft off to someone who has done this more than once and have the give it the OK, but I'm just going for a slight pre-load w/ no dragging. With no sanding and everything very clean inside the shafts it has what I perceive as way too much pre-load.
          Yeah I agree. I had nothing to compare to when I did mine so I have no actual clue if I left things exactly to spec. Fortunately mine didn't bind up and didn't have any play straight out of the box, so I just left everything alone. I remember this specific quote from Beisan's guide gave me quite a bit of reassurance since it makes it seem like being super precise isn't overly necessary for this step:

          Any level of resistance (pre-load), without binding, in splined shaft stud rotation indicates no axial play and is considered an optimal fit.
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

            Yeah I agree. I had nothing to compare to when I did mine so I have no actual clue if I left things exactly to spec. Fortunately mine didn't bind up and didn't have any play straight out of the box, so I just left everything alone. I remember this specific quote from Beisan's guide gave me quite a bit of reassurance since it makes it seem like being super precise isn't overly necessary for this step:
            I have no binding so I'll probably just do a small amount of sanding and see what that yields.

            Just gotta know this, what loctite did you use? 242 or 243? I did notice when removing the Cam bolts that I absolutely covered in blue 242 that it seemed as if the stuff really only stuck to the clean new bolts and not so much the female threads. I know that loctite "sets off" when it comes into contact with certain bare metals so this tells me that maybe I had too much oil/residue left in the cam holes before install. However it is hard to tell how much blue loctite is truly left in the cam hole threads as they are so small.

            I orderded a bottle of the super expensive Loctite 768 solvent in hopes of getting those holes super clean for when my new cam bolts show up. But I realize that I won't be able to get all the old stuff out and its stressing me out, 1st world problems.
            2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
            Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
            Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

            OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
            RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

            2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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              Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

              I have no binding so I'll probably just do a small amount of sanding and see what that yields.

              Just gotta know this, what loctite did you use? 242 or 243? I did notice when removing the Cam bolts that I absolutely covered in blue 242 that it seemed as if the stuff really only stuck to the clean new bolts and not so much the female threads. I know that loctite "sets off" when it comes into contact with certain bare metals so this tells me that maybe I had too much oil/residue left in the cam holes before install. However it is hard to tell how much blue loctite is truly left in the cam hole threads as they are so small.

              I orderded a bottle of the super expensive Loctite 768 solvent in hopes of getting those holes super clean for when my new cam bolts show up. But I realize that I won't be able to get all the old stuff out and its stressing me out, 1st world problems.
              243 because of its increased oil resistance. Just use some solvent (the loctite stuff or brake cleaner or something along those lines) and a soft brush to clean everything out as best you can. Then install the new bolts and forget about them. Highly unlikely that you'll cause the new bolts to back out because some of the thread locker didn't adhere properly to a specific portion of the female threads.
              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

                This part is where it would be nice to hand the shaft off to someone who has done this more than once and have the give it the OK, but I'm just going for a slight pre-load w/ no dragging. With no sanding and everything very clean inside the shafts it has what I perceive as way too much pre-load.
                Doesn’t dr.vanos have these already done and ready to install?


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                  Originally posted by Grke46m3 View Post

                  Doesn’t dr.vanos have these already done and ready to install?


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
                  Yeah, but I wanted to give it a go myself and also you are definitely saving some $. Breaking the spline caps apart wasn't bad at all, I used a 1/2" electric impact and just touched it off a few times and it broke free the loctite with no problem.

                  The Dr. Vanos stuff would be cool as its one less thing to worry about but as heinz pointed out above as long is there isn't binding (hanging up) when spinning the shaft any amount of pre-load is acceptable, so it would seem one wouldn't be doing a ton of fine tuning of the ring/washers necessarily.
                  2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                  Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                  Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                  OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                  RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                  2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                  Instagram

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                    SS Muffler, Eventuri Intake, Arc8 wheels. Black Friday stuff finally made it to the car:

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                      Yesterday I did my rear apex racing stud conversion and installed my rear spacers. Also finished up my exhaust, I had some bad resonance/drone from 2500-3000 rpm. I did the dual oem resonator mod and it worked like a charm - a tad quieter all around but no more drone.

                      2005 ///M3 6MT Coupe Imola/M-Texture



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                        TMS airbox test fit
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                        IG: @marcdavid038

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                          Originally posted by MD_M3 View Post


                          TMS airbox test fit
                          V1 or V2? How did it go?
                          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                          Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                          Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                          OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                          RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                          2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                          Instagram

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                            Installed Eibach springs two days ago and took the car on a test drive. Today, I put it up on jack stands to double check the install. Just wanted to make sure everything was torqued and I hadn't missed anything. Suspension was totally fine, but I did find a big puddle of power steering fluid on the garage floor.

                            Oddly enough, the system seems to be leaking from the line that goes from the reservoir to the pump and not from the high pressure line. Regardless, all new components are on order. I'm just glad the system decided to fail when the car was parked in the garage and not when I was driving.
                            2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                            2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                              Replaced motor mounts.

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                                Not today, but most of the week, troubleshooting misfires and not being able to set monitors after swapping headers, e85, etc for smog. Yay California.

                                Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                                Youtube DIYs and more

                                All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                                PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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