What did you do for your M3 today?

[Cubieman]

How did you make out?


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Ha, so I pulled out the cam bolts, which had already been done by a PO so I should have just left them alone (updated BMW bolts) but I just had to put in the Lang cam bolts and used blue 242 loctite as described in the beisan procedure.
After doing those I noticed Lang recommended to use Red 263 loctite which they included with the bolts.
I decided to pull them all out, replace with brand new Lang bolts and use Blue Loctite 243 which has a higher temp/torque rating than blue 242 and is better suited for oily environments but is still not semi-permant like the 263 Red.

I just hope the remaining blue loctite in the female threads doesn't have a huge negative effect on adhesion as I used a ton of the stuff.

/End loctite episode rant. I tend to over-complicate things for myself.

As far as the rest the vanos rebuild itself was quite easy and kind of cool to see how everything works. I still have yet to put it all back together because I orderded more cam bolts..

The other tricky part for me is deciding how much pre-load is too much for the splined shaft anti-rattle fix.

Edit: splined not spliced shaft

[heinzboehmer]

The other tricky part for me is deciding how much pre-load is too much for the spliced shaft anti-rattle fix.

Just preload it a ton. The excess friction will create new wear patterns in the metals and eventually everything will clearance itself out.



(I'm kidding, don't actually do this lol)

[Cubieman]

Just preload it a ton. The excess friction will create new wear patterns in the metals and eventually everything will clearance itself out.



(I'm kidding, don't actually do this lol)

This part is where it would be nice to hand the shaft off to someone who has done this more than once and have the give it the OK, but I'm just going for a slight pre-load w/ no dragging. With no sanding and everything very clean inside the shafts it has what I perceive as way too much pre-load.

[heinzboehmer]

This part is where it would be nice to hand the shaft off to someone who has done this more than once and have the give it the OK, but I'm just going for a slight pre-load w/ no dragging. With no sanding and everything very clean inside the shafts it has what I perceive as way too much pre-load.

Yeah I agree. I had nothing to compare to when I did mine so I have no actual clue if I left things exactly to spec. Fortunately mine didn't bind up and didn't have any play straight out of the box, so I just left everything alone. I remember this specific quote from Beisan's guide gave me quite a bit of reassurance since it makes it seem like being super precise isn't overly necessary for this step:

Any level of resistance (pre-load), without binding, in splined shaft stud rotation indicates no axial play and is considered an optimal fit.

[Cubieman]

Yeah I agree. I had nothing to compare to when I did mine so I have no actual clue if I left things exactly to spec. Fortunately mine didn't bind up and didn't have any play straight out of the box, so I just left everything alone. I remember this specific quote from Beisan's guide gave me quite a bit of reassurance since it makes it seem like being super precise isn't overly necessary for this step:

I have no binding so I'll probably just do a small amount of sanding and see what that yields.

Just gotta know this, what loctite did you use? 242 or 243? I did notice when removing the Cam bolts that I absolutely covered in blue 242 that it seemed as if the stuff really only stuck to the clean new bolts and not so much the female threads. I know that loctite "sets off" when it comes into contact with certain bare metals so this tells me that maybe I had too much oil/residue left in the cam holes before install. However it is hard to tell how much blue loctite is truly left in the cam hole threads as they are so small.

I orderded a bottle of the super expensive Loctite 768 solvent in hopes of getting those holes super clean for when my new cam bolts show up. But I realize that I won't be able to get all the old stuff out and its stressing me out, 1st world problems.

[heinzboehmer]

I have no binding so I'll probably just do a small amount of sanding and see what that yields.

Just gotta know this, what loctite did you use? 242 or 243? I did notice when removing the Cam bolts that I absolutely covered in blue 242 that it seemed as if the stuff really only stuck to the clean new bolts and not so much the female threads. I know that loctite "sets off" when it comes into contact with certain bare metals so this tells me that maybe I had too much oil/residue left in the cam holes before install. However it is hard to tell how much blue loctite is truly left in the cam hole threads as they are so small.

I orderded a bottle of the super expensive Loctite 768 solvent in hopes of getting those holes super clean for when my new cam bolts show up. But I realize that I won't be able to get all the old stuff out and its stressing me out, 1st world problems.

243 because of its increased oil resistance. Just use some solvent (the loctite stuff or brake cleaner or something along those lines) and a soft brush to clean everything out as best you can. Then install the new bolts and forget about them. Highly unlikely that you'll cause the new bolts to back out because some of the thread locker didn't adhere properly to a specific portion of the female threads.

[Grke46m3]

This part is where it would be nice to hand the shaft off to someone who has done this more than once and have the give it the OK, but I'm just going for a slight pre-load w/ no dragging. With no sanding and everything very clean inside the shafts it has what I perceive as way too much pre-load.

Doesn’t dr.vanos have these already done and ready to install?


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[Cubieman]

Doesn’t dr.vanos have these already done and ready to install?


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Yeah, but I wanted to give it a go myself and also you are definitely saving some $. Breaking the spline caps apart wasn't bad at all, I used a 1/2" electric impact and just touched it off a few times and it broke free the loctite with no problem.

The Dr. Vanos stuff would be cool as its one less thing to worry about but as heinz pointed out above as long is there isn't binding (hanging up) when spinning the shaft any amount of pre-load is acceptable, so it would seem one wouldn't be doing a ton of fine tuning of the ring/washers necessarily.

[sdmcoupe]

SS Muffler, Eventuri Intake, Arc8 wheels. Black Friday stuff finally made it to the car:

[Inizes]

Yesterday I did my rear apex racing stud conversion and installed my rear spacers. Also finished up my exhaust, I had some bad resonance/drone from 2500-3000 rpm. I did the dual oem resonator mod and it worked like a charm - a tad quieter all around but no more drone.

[MD_M3]

TMS airbox test fit

[Cubieman]

TMS airbox test fit

V1 or V2? How did it go?

[heinzboehmer]

Installed Eibach springs two days ago and took the car on a test drive. Today, I put it up on jack stands to double check the install. Just wanted to make sure everything was torqued and I hadn't missed anything. Suspension was totally fine, but I did find a big puddle of power steering fluid on the garage floor.

Oddly enough, the system seems to be leaking from the line that goes from the reservoir to the pump and not from the high pressure line. Regardless, all new components are on order. I'm just glad the system decided to fail when the car was parked in the garage and not when I was driving.

[Petener]

Replaced motor mounts.

[mrgizmo04]

Not today, but most of the week, troubleshooting misfires and not being able to set monitors after swapping headers, e85, etc for smog. Yay California.

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