Turner Motorsport CSL Airbox

[COVID-19]

HTE Performance IG has a preview of the TMS sound

[Radekxpl]

HTE Performance IG has a preview of the TMS sound

Indeed it does sound very nice 👍

[COVID-19]

Indeed it does sound very nice 👍

Made good power too!

[ATB88]

Made good power too!

Oh hellllls yes

342 whp apparently with just megan headers, the TMS box, and HassanEido . No meaningful delta from stock since the car had a tune, headers, and AFE intake before, but still that's pretty exciting.

[ATB88]

shameless ask: if anyone in/around LA has a spare IAT sensor lying around (any scaling) and is willing to part with it, I can install my airbox today :0 willing to drive to you and pay whatever you think is fair!

[COVID-19]

shameless ask: if anyone in/around LA has a spare IAT sensor lying around (any scaling) and is willing to part with it, I can install my airbox today :0 willing to drive to you and pay whatever you think is fair!

Isn’t BuildJournal around there? They sell Iat Relocations.

[heinzboehmer]

shameless ask: if anyone in/around LA has a spare IAT sensor lying around (any scaling) and is willing to part with it, I can install my airbox today :0 willing to drive to you and pay whatever you think is fair!

Just rip out the one in your MAF and attach to the IAT bung with some duct tape.

[ATB88]

Got mine installed today! First things first: driving this thing at WOT with the top down through a mountain tunnel is f***ing bonks. 10/10 on that part.

Comments on fitment:

1. The fan shroud rubs against it at the front. I was very foolish and thought I could stick a few layers of shop towel pinned between the shroud and box at the contact point and go for my first drive and it'd be fine. I was wrong. Damage done. Is there anything I can do to repair this?



2. Getting the bottom ICV hose to connect to the front-bottom bung on the airbox was very difficult. In the end I had to reallly stretch the hose and connect it to the bung BEFORE pushing the throttle body boots onto the throttle bodies. Idk if this is sustainable for that hose.

3. The air shutoff valve is very hard to get connected to the bung on top of the box. You really have to force it, to the point that I thought I was going to break the box. And once it's on it, it honestly feels like it's going to pop back out. It hasn't yet, but still.

4. The way the bottom of the box is contoured (or more accurately the lack of any contours--it's flat), the bracket can't actually hook the rubber thing to hold that solenoid valve or whatever it is that's supposed to hang under the box. The arm of the bracket that's supposed to hook onto the grommet sits flush against the bottom of the box, there's no way to hook the grommet on, kinda useless. This was Turner's in-house replica bracket, not OE.

5. The small hose that connects all the way back down to the oil pan doesn't sit in its bung nearly as securely as it does on the stock box. On the stock box it's really locked in and you have to push the tabs from above to get it out. On this box you can get it back out pulling very lightly on the hose from the bottom. Makes me worry the hose might fall out on its own.

2-5 aren't huge deals, although I am concerned about longevity of the connectors/hoses on 2+3. But 1 is a big problem imo. Car drives great, have a few small drivability issues atm, but I suspect that those are tune related, see no reason why they would be the boxes fault.

[ATB88]

Isn’t BuildJournal around there? They sell Iat Relocations.

*Huge* shout out to Connie at BuildJournal for selling me an IAT in a Chevron parking lot an hour before LA curfew. They good people, go buy E85 kits from them, they're on sale! https://thebuildjournal.com/shop/bmw...el-kit-e46-m3/

[Cubieman]

Got mine installed today! First things first: driving this thing at WOT with the top down through a mountain tunnel is f***ing bonks. 10/10 on that part.

Comments on fitment:

1. The fan shroud rubs against it at the front. I was very foolish and thought I could stick a few layers of shop towel pinned between the shroud and box at the contact point and go for my first drive and it'd be fine. I was wrong. Damage done. Is there anything I can do to repair this?



2. Getting the bottom ICV hose to connect to the front-bottom bung on the airbox was very difficult. In the end I had to reallly stretch the hose and connect it to the bung BEFORE pushing the throttle body boots onto the throttle bodies. Idk if this is sustainable for that hose.

3. The air shutoff valve is very hard to get connected to the bung on top of the box. You really have to force it, to the point that I thought I was going to break the box. And once it's on it, it honestly feels like it's going to pop back out. It hasn't yet, but still.

4. The way the bottom of the box is contoured (or more accurately the lack of any contours--it's flat), the bracket can't actually hook the rubber thing to hold that solenoid valve or whatever it is that's supposed to hang under the box. The arm of the bracket that's supposed to hook onto the grommet sits flush against the bottom of the box, there's no way to hook the grommet on, kinda useless. This was Turner's in-house replica bracket, not OE.

5. The small hose that connects all the way back down to the oil pan doesn't sit in its bung nearly as securely as it does on the stock box. On the stock box it's really locked in and you have to push the tabs from above to get it out. On this box you can get it back out pulling very lightly on the hose from the bottom. Makes me worry the hose might fall out on its own.

2-5 aren't huge deals, although I am concerned about longevity of the connectors/hoses on 2+3. But 1 is a big problem imo. Car drives great, have a few small drivability issues atm, but I suspect that those are tune related, see no reason why they would be the boxes fault.

Problem # 3
I had on my Karb. box as well. I had to file down the locking tabs on the shutoff valve to get it to seat on the box properly.

Problem # 1
Also you have to remove the driver's side splash shield for snorkel clearance on a Karb. box. Sounds like it also needs to come off for the
Turner box. You will either have to remove your top radiator hose or cut it off. I made one cut with a small handheld saw and it came off pretty easily and I didn't ruin the splash shield. But the correct way is to remove the top radiator hose.
Awesome man, that sound is something isnt it!!

[COVID-19]

I ripped my splash shield out. Lol didn’t want to disconnect the top hose.

[heinzboehmer]

Got mine installed today! First things first: driving this thing at WOT with the top down through a mountain tunnel is f***ing bonks. 10/10 on that part.

Comments on fitment:

1. The fan shroud rubs against it at the front. I was very foolish and thought I could stick a few layers of shop towel pinned between the shroud and box at the contact point and go for my first drive and it'd be fine. I was wrong. Damage done. Is there anything I can do to repair this?



2. Getting the bottom ICV hose to connect to the front-bottom bung on the airbox was very difficult. In the end I had to reallly stretch the hose and connect it to the bung BEFORE pushing the throttle body boots onto the throttle bodies. Idk if this is sustainable for that hose.

3. The air shutoff valve is very hard to get connected to the bung on top of the box. You really have to force it, to the point that I thought I was going to break the box. And once it's on it, it honestly feels like it's going to pop back out. It hasn't yet, but still.

4. The way the bottom of the box is contoured (or more accurately the lack of any contours--it's flat), the bracket can't actually hook the rubber thing to hold that solenoid valve or whatever it is that's supposed to hang under the box. The arm of the bracket that's supposed to hook onto the grommet sits flush against the bottom of the box, there's no way to hook the grommet on, kinda useless. This was Turner's in-house replica bracket, not OE.

5. The small hose that connects all the way back down to the oil pan doesn't sit in its bung nearly as securely as it does on the stock box. On the stock box it's really locked in and you have to push the tabs from above to get it out. On this box you can get it back out pulling very lightly on the hose from the bottom. Makes me worry the hose might fall out on its own.

2-5 aren't huge deals, although I am concerned about longevity of the connectors/hoses on 2+3. But 1 is a big problem imo. Car drives great, have a few small drivability issues atm, but I suspect that those are tune related, see no reason why they would be the boxes fault.

Had a similar problem to 2 and 5 on my Karbonius box. Like Cubieman, I filed down my connectors until they snapped in like they did on the regular airbox

For 4, can you bend the bracket a bit to get the rubber grommet on?

And yeah, CSLs don't have the driver's side shroud because of clearance with the snorkel. I had cut mine along these lines a while back and could get it on and off without removing the top radiator hose.



Now that I have a CSL airbox, I just don't run it

[ATB88]

Awesome, glad to hear that these aren't issues unique to the Turner box. Wish I'd realized ahead of time that the stupid shroud's not supposed to be there on a CSL, d'oh.

And yeah I did bend the bracket down to be able to hook the grommet on, but still not much space as the arm is pretty short. So I ziptied it lol.

[Tjkenny15]

If anyone has the Alpha N tune by Hassan, aka HTE Performance, in the DMV area I'd love to see it in action. PM me plz!

[terra]

For problem #5, I replaced the o-ring with a thicker one and slid it into place using some dish soap as a lubricant. It doesn't click like OE, but the hose is at least staying where it should and sealing.