Thanks for the advice!!!! the thing is that I had sourced the front 135i performance callipers for 700 brand new, so it was difficult to pass on them. The Z4M has the same brake setup as the E46 M3 ZCP so I could of run the 996 callipers up front too. I will post photos as I get them ready for install.
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Does anyone have a suggestion on cap screws (bolts) alternatives that secure the rear calipers to the brackets? I'm looking for ones that won't rust quite as easily.
I did this about 2 years ago (killer brakes!!!) but the black oxide cap screws that came with the Rally Road kit are rusting badly. This car never sees snow and rarely rain, so this is car washes mostly that has caused this. I'm not sure if these are grade 10.9 or 12.9 - this is 4 bolts that I don't want to incorrectly spec a replacement.
These are M12 x 1.75mm x 65mm.
PSA - make sure the rest of the hardware is Porsche. These pad springs are Centric and are clearly not coated. Just bite the bullet and pay the P-car tax:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/99635195901/4 PhotosBuild thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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Wait, the rally road kit comes with black oxide screws? That's a terrible design decision, black oxide has next to no corrosion resistance.Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View PostDoes anyone have a suggestion on cap screws (bolts) alternatives that secure the rear calipers to the brackets? I'm looking for ones that won't rust quite as easily.
I did this about 2 years ago (killer brakes!!!) but the black oxide cap screws that came with the Rally Road kit are rusting badly. This car never sees snow and rarely rain, so this is car washes mostly that has caused this. I'm not sure if these are grade 10.9 or 12.9 - this is 4 bolts that I don't want to incorrectly spec a replacement.
These are M12 x 1.75mm x 65mm.
PSA - make sure the rest of the hardware is Porsche. These pad springs are Centric and are clearly not coated. Just bite the bullet and pay the P-car tax:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/99635195901/
Mcmaster has zinc-plated screws of the same spec. However with shipping it's probably cheaper to call local fastener shops like fastenal to see if they have something similar
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Wow, cant believe a company would actually send out black oxide bolts to be used in BBKs. Check out the EcoGuard line of fastenal bolts. I've used these before with oither stuff and they rock.Originally posted by timmo View Post
Wait, the rally road kit comes with black oxide screws? That's a terrible design decision, black oxide has next to no corrosion resistance.
Mcmaster has zinc-plated screws of the same spec. However with shipping it's probably cheaper to call local fastener shops like fastenal to see if they have something similar
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Looks like he probably sources them from McMaster. $2 extra per kit to include the Zinc plated onesOriginally posted by timmo View Post
Wait, the rally road kit comes with black oxide screws? That's a terrible design decision, black oxide has next to no corrosion resistance.
Mcmaster has zinc-plated screws of the same spec. However with shipping it's probably cheaper to call local fastener shops like fastenal to see if they have something similar
I’m gonna order a 10 pack, anyone who wants the other five let me know, will ship them out for a Hamilton
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I just installed some Rally Road brackets and they are definitely not Black Oxide screws. The bolts are zinc plated high grade steel 10.9 so they must of changed them since you installed yours.Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View PostDoes anyone have a suggestion on cap screws (bolts) alternatives that secure the rear calipers to the brackets? I'm looking for ones that won't rust quite as easily.
I did this about 2 years ago (killer brakes!!!) but the black oxide cap screws that came with the Rally Road kit are rusting badly. This car never sees snow and rarely rain, so this is car washes mostly that has caused this. I'm not sure if these are grade 10.9 or 12.9 - this is 4 bolts that I don't want to incorrectly spec a replacement.
These are M12 x 1.75mm x 65mm.
I used VHT Black paint and painted all of the pad springs and polished the pins. At $45 per set I will try this first and see how they hold up.
Last edited by WOLFN8TR; 06-12-2020, 10:44 AM.TTFS Engine/SMG Tune - CSL 255 - SGT Headers/Sect 1/SCZA
Brembo 996 - ARC-8's - BWS 500S 9k/11k - Valentine 1 - BlueBus - Orion V4's
Evolve Eventuri - VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser/CSL Trunk
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My dad had his brakes updated a few years back and when we changed them recently, and the pad brackets didn't have rust on them like that at all. He has a 987 but the pad is exactly the same. The brand was Pagid which are phenomenal pads, as well as OE. They survived the Tail of the Dragon for hours of spirited driving. I was genuinely impressed.Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View PostDoes anyone have a suggestion on cap screws (bolts) alternatives that secure the rear calipers to the brackets? I'm looking for ones that won't rust quite as easily.
I did this about 2 years ago (killer brakes!!!) but the black oxide cap screws that came with the Rally Road kit are rusting badly. This car never sees snow and rarely rain, so this is car washes mostly that has caused this. I'm not sure if these are grade 10.9 or 12.9 - this is 4 bolts that I don't want to incorrectly spec a replacement.
Something corrosive must've got on your car at one point which caused them to rust that wasn't washed off in time. Maybe the lack of rain helped it rust because they didn't get washed off. I can call Rally Road monday and verify the bolt they used but that corrosion seems excessive for only a few years. If it was just bolts, fine, but it's also the unrelated bracket. We're here in FL where it rains ALL the time so unless you had some acid rain(it is possible) I don't think this corrosion is the normal standard. Hopefully that'll relieve you some.
Have you used rim cleaner on your rims even once since the brake change?This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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Possibly changed bolts. One thing I absolutely did not think about is if this set up will work on 18" rims. I 90% it will but can someone measure the distance between their rim and caliper just so I know.... CSL wheels are great and all but I do like the way 18's drive much better.This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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Thanks for all the replies re: the black oxide bolts. I had intended to swap them out after the initial install but never got around to it (you know how it goes).
When I did this job, I cheaped out on the pads springs and bleeder valves, having a hard time justifying the Porsche pricing. They all rusted.
I don't know if I got anything corrosive on it. If I did, I would have expected to see rust everywhere else on the car and I don't. It's only on the front and rear brakes. Also, where I was able to reuse some of the Porsche parts (pad springs in the front brakes) there is zero rust. Buy cheap buy twice.
I have APEX EC-7 wheels in 18" and there is PLENTY of room with this setup (CSL/Competition rotors front and rear).Originally posted by Arith2 View PostPossibly changed bolts. One thing I absolutely did not think about is if this set up will work on 18" rims. I 90% it will but can someone measure the distance between their rim and caliper just so I know.... CSL wheels are great and all but I do like the way 18's drive much better.
Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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They make some noise when coming to a complete stop, but they aren't too noisy. I've only driven ~300 miles on them so far. I have no complaints so far on the pads, but I cannot compare to the textars. Yes, Those are the part numbers I used.Originally posted by i_love_japan View Post
I'm considering to upgrade to Ferodo DS2500 pads (from Textar) as well, but wasn't sure if they'll squeal. How do you find the stopping power and fitment with these pads? Are FRP3051H and FCP1307H the correct part number?
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Yeah I've learned that the hard way a few times over the years. There are a lot of cheap things you can get away with like a window switch, but metal usually is not the same. My Megan Racing headers are the exception to this rule but I generally try to stick to the best qualityOriginally posted by Casa de Mesa View PostThanks for all the replies re: the black oxide bolts. I had intended to swap them out after the initial install but never got around to it (you know how it goes).
When I did this job, I cheaped out on the pads springs and bleeder valves, having a hard time justifying the Porsche pricing. They all rusted.
I don't know if I got anything corrosive on it. If I did, I would have expected to see rust everywhere else on the car and I don't. It's only on the front and rear brakes. Also, where I was able to reuse some of the Porsche parts (pad springs in the front brakes) there is zero rust. Buy cheap buy twice.
I have APEX EC-7 wheels in 18" and there is PLENTY of room with this setup (CSL/Competition rotors front and rear).
rice ratio.
It's really good to visually see how much room you have in there. I was thinking worst case scenario, I'd be shaving the top of the pin hole down a few mm but not anymore.This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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