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    Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post

    Disappeared off the site.
    Yep. It was on clearance for around $220 and then the price jumped. All of a sudden it’s showing out of stock. There’s still more out there though if you need.

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      Originally posted by DropTopKingM3 View Post

      Yep. It was on clearance for around $220 and then the price jumped. All of a sudden it’s showing out of stock. There’s still more out there though if you need.
      FCP had it listed as a clearance item and says it has been discontinued which makes no sense.
      2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

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        For those of you with SSV1s, where did you place your sensors (if it even matters at all)? I see two bungs per header for O2 sensors and there's also a bung for the EGT sensor on both the headers and the catted section 1.

        As far as I understand, the EGT is only there to protect the cats, so I think it makes sense to use the bung on the section 1 for that, as it'll be closer to the cats.

        For the bank 2 header, the O2 bungs are right next to each other, so I can't imagine that matters too much. However, for the bank 1 header, there's one bung downstream of the collector and one in the middle of it. Which one should I use?


        Not my pic, but I've labeled what I'm talking about here:

        Click image for larger version

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        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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          Just use the ones highest up, and cap the secondaries. I don't use EGT, but I agree that you should put it closer to the cats, so in sect 1 if your sect 1 has cats and the pipes have an egt bung ofc.
          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
          More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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            Trying to remove my PSS10 coilovers to install the Vorschlag camber plates. Any tips on removing the top 22mm strut nut? It's on there very tight. I've loosened the lower rings, so there shouldn't be any compression on the springs.

            Comment


              Usually, you have to use a hex or a socket to hold the shaft while you loosen or tighten the nut. 7/8" or 22mm oxygen sensor sockets are good for this, as you can slip a smaller tool in to hold the shaft, then turn big socket with a big wrench.

              For loosening, an air tool will zip the nut off so fast, you don't need to hold the shaft.
              Last edited by Tbonem3; 10-06-2021, 10:36 AM.
              DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
              /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
              More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

              Comment


                You could benefit from this tool to use a ratchet.



                Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                Youtube DIYs and more

                All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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                  I am planning to DIY rod bearings in my garage this winter along with VANOS refresh and valve adjustment and suspension refresh.
                  My question is about space required to do the rod bearings.
                  I will have the car up on the QuickJack, but I will have to have it positioned such that on the driver's side there will not be much room to even slide by between the car and the wall rack. I will have room in the front and plenty on the passenger side.
                  Is that doable?
                  I don't want to take the car apart, making it immobile and then not being to complete the job.

                  Thanks!
                  2006 BMW M3 ZCP

                  Comment


                    It's doable as long as you can get the wheel off on the drivers side. I removed the whole front subframe when I did this job with only enough room to remove the wheel on the drivers side and about 3-4 ft clearance in the front.
                    2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Anthracite Impuse - SOLD

                    2001 TiAG M3 - 6mt Coupe, Black Nappa Leather
                    Karbonius | Supersprint | Cat Cams | Beisan | Fikse Wheels | Mile End Composites | AST 5200 | Hotchkis | Brembo | Recaro | Rouge SMF | RTD | Yellow Tag Rack | HTE Performance

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by eljay View Post
                      I am planning to DIY rod bearings in my garage this winter along with VANOS refresh and valve adjustment and suspension refresh.
                      My question is about space required to do the rod bearings.
                      I will have the car up on the QuickJack, but I will have to have it positioned such that on the driver's side there will not be much room to even slide by between the car and the wall rack. I will have room in the front and plenty on the passenger side.
                      Is that doable?
                      I don't want to take the car apart, making it immobile and then not being to complete the job.

                      Thanks!
                      At the highest setting, the whole front subframe can be removed from the front.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by eljay View Post
                        I am planning to DIY rod bearings in my garage this winter along with VANOS refresh and valve adjustment and suspension refresh.
                        My question is about space required to do the rod bearings.
                        I will have the car up on the QuickJack, but I will have to have it positioned such that on the driver's side there will not be much room to even slide by between the car and the wall rack. I will have room in the front and plenty on the passenger side.
                        Is that doable?
                        I don't want to take the car apart, making it immobile and then not being to complete the job.

                        Thanks!
                        I did it up on jackstands and about 4 feet in front of the car, almost none on each side (just enough to crouch and remove the knuckles and brakes from the struts.

                        It's not a fun job FYI

                        Comment


                          What size is the schrader valve for testing fuel pressure, 5/16"? I rented a guage tonight and all of the fitting were much too large.

                          Can anyone recommend a decent gauge?
                          2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                          Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                          Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                          OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                          RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                          2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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                            I bought my car without any of the underneath skid plates/protection panels. I recently purchased them but cant figure out the order they go on. Can anyone point me in the direction of the proper assembly of them?

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by LVMESM46 View Post
                              I bought my car without any of the underneath skid plates/protection panels. I recently purchased them but cant figure out the order they go on. Can anyone point me in the direction of the proper assembly of them?
                              https://www.redish-motorsport.com/re...toration+4.jpg

                              https://photos.smugmug.com/MotoIQ/Pr...3c0/L/37-L.jpg
                              3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                                I'm going to be tackling some transmission work and am curious about deleting the clutch delay valve (CDV). I like the concept of a faster engaging clutch but have questions...

                                Is this worth doing at all? Or more of a "3 TiGhT FreE $$$ Mods!!!" Youtube video kind of mod?

                                Does it do any long term damage to remove the CDV?
                                2005 6MT TiAg | 1:47.01 @ Laguna Seca
                                ..........................| 1:58.93 @ Sonoma

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